Log splitters come to market with at least 6 or 7 different power options including manual, electric, kinetic, and hydraulic to name a few. If you’re unsure of whether or not gas is the best option, I’d encourage you to read my article on the different types of splitters and why you would or would not want each of the types.

Why Choose a Gas Log Splitter?

Gas log splitters have gained popularity for several reasons, making them a preferred choice for many people who need to split logs for various purposes. Here are some factors that contribute to their popularity:

1. Power and Efficiency: Gas log splitters are known for their high power output, which allows them to handle large and tough logs with ease. This efficiency is particularly valuable for heavy-duty tasks or commercial use, where a significant amount of splitting needs to be done quickly.
2. Portability: Gas log splitters are generally more portable than hydraulic log splitters that require access to electricity or a separate power source. This mobility makes them suitable for use in remote areas, forests, or places where power outlets are not readily available.
3. Versatility: Gas log splitters can be used in various outdoor settings, regardless of the availability of electrical power. This flexibility is especially important for those who need to split logs in different locations.
4. No Dependence on Electricity: Unlike electric log splitters, which require a steady supply of electricity, gas log splitters operate using gasoline. This independence from electrical power sources makes them suitable for areas prone to power outages or for individuals who want to work without worrying about electrical constraints.
5. Speed: Gas log splitters often have faster cycle times compared to electric models, resulting in quicker log splitting. This is especially beneficial for people who have a large volume of logs to split within a limited time frame.
6. Heavy-Duty Performance: Gas log splitters are designed to handle heavy-duty tasks and can generate higher splitting forces. This makes them a preferred choice for professional log-splitting tasks, such as in commercial firewood production or forestry operations.
7. Ease of Use: Gas log splitters are relatively simple to operate. Users typically need to add gasoline to the engine, start it up, and then engage the splitter using controls. This simplicity makes them accessible to a wide range of users, including those with limited technical knowledge.
8. Durability: Gas log splitters are built to withstand rugged conditions and heavy use. The engines and components are designed to handle the stresses associated with splitting logs, making them a reliable option for demanding applications.
9. Availability of Fuel: Gasoline is readily available in most areas, making it convenient to keep a gas log splitter fueled and operational. Users don’t need to worry about finding specialized fuels or power sources.
10. Range of Sizes and Models: Gas log splitters come in various sizes and models, offering users a choice based on their specific needs. From smaller, more portable models for residential use to larger, industrial-grade options, there’s a gas log splitter for different applications.

It’s important to note that the choice between gas log splitters and other types, such as electric or hydraulic, depends on factors such as the intended use, available resources, budget, and personal preferences. While gas log splitters offer many advantages, it’s essential to assess your individual needs before making a decision.

Our Top 5 Gas Log Splitters

IMPORTANT: When reading reviews on gas log splitters it is important to note that none of the review sites (even the big-name ones) went out and bought 5 or 10 different splitters to evaluate. That’s not financially feasible and it’s just not done no matter what they “say”. The process used in reviewing and determining the “best” splitter would be to assess factors such as user reviews from multiple sources, budget considerations, average user log sizes, location of use and others.

# 5 – Champion 7-ton compact horizontal splitter

This well-respected brand offers a lot of punch for the money. For a couple of day’s labor at an average job, you can own a splitter you’ll likely have for a lifetime and will split most logs if you’re buying logs or live in/near a small forest with average-sized trees.

This 7-ton model featuring auto-return comes standard with a 79cc engine and a 20-second cycle time. It offers 180 cycles an hour along with an integrated log cradle and low-profile design for easy log loading.

While it is not meant to be towed, it does offer tires that will never get flat so it’s easy to move and store. It fits easily into any truck bed.

Like all Champion splitters, you’ll get a 2-year warranty and free lifetime tech support.

# 4 – BENCHMARK 25 Ton Gas-Powered Log Splitter

Benchmark is an iconic name in Canadian Home Hardware stores, but I suspect that is the case in the USA as well. Benchmark tools are US made so the quality is noticeably better than offshore no-name brands.

This 25-ton splitter offers a powerful 25-ton ram force with its oversized 2-stage pump that offers an 11.2-second cycle time. That’s pretty impressive. The full-beam design and optimal ergonomics offers an extra boost when it comes to safety and ease of use.

It comes with an auto return valve and adjustable detent, and much to the delight of many, it is meant to be towed!

# 3 – Boss Industrial 20-Ton Horizontal Dual-Action Gas Splitter

The Boss Industrial splitter offers not only an excellent brand to back its product, but an impressive set of features.

A split time of 6 seconds is possible because of its dual-action splitting technique. You don’t actually have to wait for the wedge to return – it’s ready right away after the previous split.

The 2-way splitter is powered by a Kohler 6.5 hp 196cc engine and yet it’s still lightweight and easy to move and maneuver. It’s towable and comes with FREE SHIPPING in the US.

The 20-tons of splitting force are delivered with a one-handed operation capability, so you’ll have plenty of power and oodles of convenience through the splitting process.

Rounding out the list of features is a large 24″ splitting length, extra large log trays and a built-in wheeled trailer jack.

# 2 – Northstar 30-ton horizontal/vertical splitter 

With an insanely good price (less than $1500 at the time of this review), the Northstar can’t help but make it near the top of our list.

The 30-ton power output is the highest of all the splitters on our list.

Its powerful Kohler commercial CH270 Series engine can split logs up to 25 inches long and 16 inches in diameter!

Featuring an auto-return wedge along with American-made componentry, this beast (as long as the price holds) has to be the best “value” on our list for sure!

# 1 – Champion 25-ton horizontal/vertical beam splitter

Finally, OUR TOP CHOICE!

Champion is one of the better names in splitters whether tey are on Amazon or not. At about twice the price of a 7-ton model, the 25-ton splitter is the best deal by a wide margin. It’s barely over $1000 and offers good looks, highly-rated performance quality, very positive owner reviews and more versatility (horizontal/vertical) than any other in its class.

It features a large 224cc OHV engine, vertical to horizontal conversion in mere seconds, it’s towable up to 45 mph and offers 16-inch tires.

With its 11-second cycle time, you’ll be able to split more wood than you probably have in record time, and best of all, it’s capable of well over 300 cycles per hour.

Did I mention it comes with a 2-year warranty and free lifetime tech support? Well, I just did!

Are there reasons I might NOT want a gas-powered log splitter?

While gas splitters remain the most common choice for splitting logs, there are specific conditions that might make it impossible, difficult, or at least undesirable to use one. Thankfully there are other options, but what exactly might make gas splitters undesirable?

Firstly, the noise and emissions might be enough to push an irate neighbor over the edge! Gas log splitters produce noise and exhaust emissions due to their combustion engines, which can be a concern in residential areas or enclosed spaces.

Gas engines do require some maintenance. This would include fuel, oil changes, and occasional maintenance of spark plugs and filters. Electric log splitters generally have lower maintenance requirements.

Gas costs money and of course, operating a gas log splitter requires purchasing gasoline, which can lead to ongoing fuel costs. Electric log splitters, in contrast, rely on electricity, which may be cheaper in some regions.

If you’re the type to be very sensitive about your environmental footprint, gas splitters do produce a bit more of an environmental footprint than some other options. Gas log splitters contribute to air pollution through emissions from their engines. In contrast, electric log splitters have a lower environmental impact, especially if powered by clean energy sources.

Sometimes gas tools and products might have starting issues, especially in colder weather or after periods of inactivity, requiring troubleshooting and potentially delaying work.

For some, weight might matter! Gas log splitters tend to be heavier due to the engine and fuel tank, which can make transportation and maneuvering more challenging compared to lighter electric models.

And finally, there’s the cost! Gas log splitters often have a higher initial cost than electric models, factoring in the engine and components required for combustion.

Key Takeaways

Whew! That was a whirlwind of information but I hope it has helped you determine whether or not a gas splitter is best for you, and if so, which model would work best.

It’s important to note that gas splitters are far and away the most common type of log splitter for a reason (or many of them actually!). The decision of what type of splitter is best has been contemplated by many people for years, and gas has come out on top. Consider the reasons outlined at the start of this article and you just may come to that same conclusion.

Ultimately, the choice between a gas-powered log splitter and other types depends on your specific needs, preferences, and circumstances. Consider the pros and cons carefully to determine which type best suits your log-splitting requirements.

Paddling a canoe upstream can be not only challenging but in some cases impossible. It’s crucial to know what rivers can be navigated upstream with a canoe and those which cannot. If it’s a navigable river, using the right techniques and approaching the river in the right way can make the difference between paddling upstream all day on the one hand, and calling it quits after 10 minutes on the other.

After 40 years of paddling and consulting with colleagues and friends who often know more than I do, I think I can offer you some very actionable and helpful advice for making your way upriver in an obvious current.

Read the Water

Every river has its own characteristics, so you’ll have to analyze the conditions. If the river is large and slow-moving, your paddling technique and approach will be virtually no different than paddling flatwater or downriver on a large, slow current.

However, if the river is shallow with rapids or has a full spectrum of qualities that change every mile, you’ll need to adjust. For example, you’ll want to stay where the current is the weakest. Often, keeping close to shore will offer you the slowest current flow, but this is not always the case.

I was recently on a large river in Central Ontario called the Lower Madawaska River. Our group (including the guide) was completely taken off guard as we approached the shoreline just before an elbow at the head of a set of rapids. There were no obstacles in the water near the shore and it was difficult to see the strength of the current.

We all found out that the current was stronger near the shore (about 10 feet out) out to around 30 feet than it was through the rest of the river which was quite wide (several hundred feet at that point). Several group members capsized and waded in chest-high water in their zeal to avoid the rapids and to get to shore.

Please note that on parts of some rivers, you’ll find that the strongest current and fastest water movement is directly against one shore – especially if it’s a rock cliff and the river narrows at that point.

Typically, areas with no obstacles, deeper water and (usually) near shore will offer the least resistance.

Sit in the Stern … Maybe

If you are paddling solo, a stern seat position is best in most cases. I own a solo canoe and the seat is very near the middle of the canoe front to back. The closer your position is to center, the more difficult it is to turn the canoe (especially if it has very little rocker) but it’s also more difficult for the current to turn you off your upstream course.

I would bias my position at least a foot astern of center for best control.

Also, be sure to keep your bow mostly pointing directly upstream. It’s best not to even deviate even 45º from upstream on stronger current.

Are You Solo or Tandem?

Paddling your canoe upstream presents a variety of challenges specific to canoes which are significantly different than kayaks. If you are paddling a canoe solo, you’ll need to compensate your technique given that you won’t have help from your partner.

One of the first rules of upstream paddling (on rivers with obvious and consequential currents) is to keep your bow facing upstream. With a partner, the 2 of you probably won’t change your paddling style much from flatwater paddling. That is, you’ll both choose a side to paddle and you’ll paddle a bit harder than if you were on a lake. From time to time, you (the stern paddler) MAY have to change sides to make a quick course correction.

If you are solo, it is likely that you’ll have to switch sides while paddling to make course corrections more quickly and efficiently than using corrective strokes like the goon stroke or J-stroke.

After a few strokes – three to six, usually the canoe will start to wander off course, drifting away from the side on which it is being paddled. Switch sides and keep paddling.
… never let go of the paddle. As you take the paddle out of the water in a normal recover, let your hand closest to the water slide up the shaft to the grip, as you release your grip hand to grab the shaft.

– Harry Roberts (editor and co-founder of CanoeSport Journal and colleague of Cliff Jacobson)

Professional writer, teacher, editor and expert on all things pertaining to fast solo canoeing, Harry Roberts, tells us (in Cliff Jacobson’s book The Basic Essentials of Solo Canoeing), that you’ll be served best by using the “sit’n switch” method of paddling for speed and control.

This is a solo paddling technique used by racers (and smart wilderness paddlers!) to maximize directional control and speed. It’s basically the process of switching your paddling side every 3-10 strokes rather than always staying on one side and having to apply heavy corrective strokes to stay on course.

Cliff Jacobson’s book explains all the details on page 38-39 but in a nutshell, you’ll need to know the power stroke, the post and the draw. Essentially, the power stroke is best delivered with a bent shaft paddle, and when the stroke is complete, it’s always good to apply a TINY J-stroke as a moderate corrective measure, but it’s so small, it only serves to delay, not prevent, the need to switch sides to maintain course.

If necessary the post can be used. A post is more of a maneuver than a stroke. It is a STATIC DRAW stroke which more-or-less turns the canoe to the side on which the post is applied. You can pivot the blade to be more or less aggressive.

If you lean to the opposite side while doing the post (and the canoe is moving forward at a moderate speed) it will turn to the post side very quickly because the bow and stern are slightly raised (especially in a canoe with lots of rocker) so they don’t provide turning resistance.

The draw is another maneuver that pulls your canoe sideways as a quick corrective measure.

Angle Against the Current

Here’s a technique I thought should be included because it can work well. I think it’s more of a personal preference issue, however.

I have been mentioning that you need to keep your bow pointing directly ahead. That is what I do. However, a veteran river paddler told me that he keeps his canoe at a bit of an angle (somewhere around 20º – 30º) off of directly upstream.

By doing this, he says that the current helps you to keep your stroke on ONE SIDE of the canoe, and by doing this, you’ll save the time it takes to switch your stroke from one side of the canoe to the other, so you’ll move faster.

I know that is true, but you might get a bit tired and worn on that side if you’re paddling really hard.

The other potential issue I can see is that if you let that 30º get away on you so it becomes a 50º – 90º angle, you could lose control entirely and be turned backward by the strong current.

Whatever works for you is what you should use, and a bit of experimentation will guide your decision.

Take Advantage of Eddies

Eddies are calm areas of water behind obstacles, such as rocks or bends in the river. Paddle into these eddies to take a break from fighting the current and regain your strength before proceeding further.

The process of using eddies and moving properly and effectively from one eddy to another is a huge topic on its own, but here are some essentials;

As you proceed upstream, eddies will appear as pockets of calm water hiding (on your side) of an obstacle like a big rock. If you’re paddling with a group, be sure to move away from the eddy line (the area where the calm water meets the main current) so others can enter the eddy.

Before you leave the eddy, be sure to have a plan and know where you are going precisely once you leave it. If not, you may end up fighting the current trying to decide what to do and you’ll be pushed downstream on a strong current.

Also, note that the stronger the current, the easier it is to see eddies. However, if you can identify them easily, the rapids around which they are located may be too large to navigate and you may have to portage.

Consider Poling, Lining, or Portaging

I know this is an article about how to paddle a canoe upstream, but it would be incomplete without a mention of the other skills and options that can and should be used in the right conditions to help you get upriver effectively.

Poling is pretty self-explanatory. You will grab a “pole” in the form of a sturdy branch or even a paddle in a pinch. The pole is used to push yourself and the canoe in water that is shallow enough to use the pole.

While poling is a powerful technique that can possibly eliminate any backward loss of gains, my preference is to simply use deep, powerful strokes when I can, and only consider poling when the water is too shallow to accommodate the full depth of my paddle blade. Even then, if the water is so shallow that I can’t paddle efficiently, I will most likely get out of the canoe and either walk with it or line the canoe (pull it upstream with a rope).

On rivers like the Madawaska in Springtime, you’ll have to portage nearly every set of rapids, but the trails are easy to find and the sections of river between rapids are quite navigable and conquerable for upstream paddlers.

Consider the Type of Canoe You’ll Paddle

I’m not a big fan of prospector canoes that offer a pronounced rocker. The reason is that canoes with rocker are harder to paddle in a straight line but are easier to steer. If you are moving downstream and mostly just have to steer (using your paddle as a rudder), then a rocker is good because it allows you to steer around quickly approaching obstacles like rocks and logs.

However, if you are traveling slowly upstream against the current (especially if you are solo paddling), having a canoe that steers easily is not really an advantage. It means that you’ll have to correct your direction very often and you may spend more time trying to stay on course than you are spending on your power stroke!

If you know you’ll be portaging rapids, you can use a sleek, narrow, efficient Kevlar canoe, but most likely, if you’re paddling upstream, you’re getting ready to paddle downstream too. That means you’ll want a whitewater canoe made of Royalex or TuffStuff. This type of canoe will be a “pig” to try to paddle upstream because it will have lots of rocker and will be ultra-heavy.

Key Takeaways

Paddling upstream is a learned skill that develops with experience. You’ll need to learn to read the water so you don’t get swept downstream, and you’ll need to perfect a few strokes, use the right canoe and have some alternate plans in case you encounter insurmountable obstacles.

It’s a learning process, so give yourself some grace as you learn!

Upgrading or modifying your canoe can be either a fun and profitable task or a scary, daunting task depending on your mindset and your skillset. Most avid paddlers will do their own simple upgrades, mods and repairs including repair of holes in the hull or deep scratches.

Here’s a list of modifications that nearly anyone can do with minimal experience, that will increase the value and usefulness of your canoe. I’ve done most of these on my canoes and of all the modifications you can do (there are dozens), I believe these will offer you the most return on your investment of both time and money.

1 – Replace your factory yoke

Many otherwise good canoes come with a carry yoke that looks just like a basic thwart or a quickly cut, cheap thwart that will need a pad or lifejacket on top of it in order to allow you to carry the canoe over a long portage.

Before I replaced my standard yoke, I assumed it was a very good yoke and because it had some shape to it that appeared to accommodate my neck and shoulders, I thought it was comfortable. It still hurt my neck and I needed to cover it with padding, but I thought that was as good as it gets.

After a few years, I stumbled across something called a deep dish or contoured yoke and realized the difference is MASSIVE! The comfort level increased so much that I no longer needed padding and I could carry my canoe for several kilometers without discomfort. It even had a cutout for the bone near the top of my spine!

Replacing a yoke is a project of less than an hour (took me about 25 min.) and requires only measuring the exact width of your canoe where the yoke will be placed (or measure the yoke you remove) and then cut the new yoke to the proper width.

You then need only to drill holes into it (use your old yoke as a template) and screw it into place.

If you’d prefer a bit of a step-by-step outline of how to replace the yoke, here’s a good outline of the process;

• Assess the current yoke: Examine how the existing yoke is attached to your canoe. It may be screwed or bolted on, or it might be held in place with clamps or brackets.

• Remove the old yoke: Use the appropriate tool to remove any screws, bolts, or clamps holding the yoke in place. Keep track of all the hardware you remove, as you may need it later.

• Measure the dimensions: Take accurate measurements of the old yoke, including its length, width, and thickness. Transfer these measurements to the replacement yoke if it’s not an exact match.

• Position the new yoke: Place the replacement yoke in the desired position on your canoe. Ensure it is centered and aligned with the existing holes or attachment points.

• Mark the attachment points: Use a pencil or marker to mark the locations where you’ll need to drill holes or install screws or bolts to secure the new yoke.

• Pre-drill or prepare attachment points: Depending on your canoe and the replacement yoke, you may need to pre-drill holes or prepare the attachment points. Follow the instructions provided with the replacement yoke if available.

• Install the new yoke: Align the replacement yoke with the marked attachment points and secure it in place. Use the appropriate screws, bolts, clamps, or brackets to ensure a secure fit. Tighten the hardware properly but avoid over-tightening, as it can damage the canoe or the yoke.

• Test for stability: Once the new yoke is installed, give it a gentle shake to ensure it is stable and firmly attached. Check for any movement or signs of weakness.

• Adjust and fine-tune: If necessary, make minor adjustments to the position or attachment of the new yoke until you’re satisfied with its stability and comfort.

2 – Replace plastic or cane seats with weave

Unless you’ve been paddling your canoe for years you may not realize that unless you bring lots of padding for your butt, plastic or cane seats (never mind metal seats) are not very comfortable for hours of paddling.

I used to like cane seats until I realized they weren’t quite as comfy as weaved seats and the caning will rot or tear fairly easily compared to the comfort and durability of a weaved or woven seat.

A weaved seat is made from a weave of seat belt material (nylon) and I showed the details of how I made mine in the video below. I made a removable seat, but this is even easier if you just remove the cane seat (or wait til it tears) and use the existing frame.

3 – Add a motor mount and electric motor

You can purchase a motor mount for a canoe from a variety of retailers, but it’s not difficult to make your own. A trolling motor brings your canoeing options to a whole new level.

I like to think I’m all about deep wilderness paddling 1000 miles from the nearest person, but in reality, I also enjoy fishing with my canoe. When I fish, I use stabilizers and a trolling motor. Here’s how you can make your own motor mount in less than 1 hour (maybe 2 if you have to scavenge for materials).

If you’d like a mount but don’t have the time or tools to make it, Amazon has some great options that are usually a bit less pricey than other outlets.

Keep in mind that motor mounts for canoes are always removable but not all mounting hardware is friendly to wood gunwales. In my video tutorial on how to DIY, I make sure all hardware contacting the gunwales is made of wood to minimize scratches, etc.

4 – Stabilizers will enhance your recreation and angling experience

Canoe stabilizers are another DIY project that any handy person can figure out how to make. There are lots of YouTube videos showing a variety of construction styles.

However, when it comes to stabilizers, I chose to buy mine from a reputable company that makes the absolute best stabilizers on the market. I explain all the details in the video below, and I can assure you that if you add the stabilizers along with the motor, you’ll have a fishing experience not unlike fishing from a bass boat (minus the ability to walk in all directions).

5 – Install a spray deck for seaworthiness

Spray decks are typically installed on whitewater canoes or extreme wilderness or distance voyagers! However, just about any canoe used for wilderness excursions would benefit from a spray deck.

Rainy weather can fill your hull with inches of water while potentially soaking your gear on a trip. Most importantly, a canoe could be totally filled with water in a capsize without a spray skirt, while potentially, almost no water would enter the canoe if a skirted canoe were to capsize and be righted quickly.

Using a spray skirt on a canoe can provide lots of other benefits, especially in specific conditions or types of paddling. Here are some reasons why you might consider using a spray skirt:

A spray skirt creates a barrier between the inside of the canoe and the outside water. It helps keep water from splashing or entering the canoe, which is particularly useful in rough or choppy waters. By preventing water from entering, it helps keep you and your gear drier, enhancing comfort and reducing the risk of hypothermia.

In colder or inclement weather, a spray skirt can offer protection from wind, rain, and spray. It acts as a shield, keeping the elements away from you and maintaining a more comfortable paddling environment. This is especially important for maintaining body heat and preventing exposure-related issues.

The tight fit of a spray skirt creates a seal between the paddler and the canoe, enhancing stability and control. It helps maintain a snug connection, allowing you to maneuver the canoe more effectively and maintain balance in challenging conditions. This is particularly beneficial in whitewater paddling or when dealing with strong currents.

By reducing the entry of water and minimizing the impact of wind and waves, a spray skirt can improve the efficiency of your paddling strokes. It helps maintain a smoother and more streamlined motion, translating into better speed and performance. This is especially advantageous during longer trips or when covering greater distances.

In rough waters or whitewater situations, a spray skirt can provide an added layer of safety. It prevents water from flooding the canoe, reducing the risk of swamping or capsizing. It also minimizes the chance of gear getting wet or lost, which can be crucial for wilderness trips or when carrying valuable equipment.

Some paddling techniques, such as kayak-style strokes, benefit from the use of a spray skirt. If you prefer to kneel or sit in a lower position and use torso rotation for more efficient paddling, a spray skirt can help maintain proper body alignment and technique.

It’s important to note that using a spray skirt requires proper training and experience, as it can present its own set of challenges. You should practice wet exits and self-rescue techniques to ensure you can safely remove the spray skirt in case of an emergency.

Consider the specific conditions you’ll be paddling in, your comfort level, and the type of canoeing you’ll be doing when deciding whether to use a spray skirt.

6 – Consider a Kneeling Thwart

A canoe kneeling thwart, also known as a kneeling thwart or a kneeling yoke, is a structural element typically found in canoes. It is a crossbeam or thwart positioned in the center of the canoe, near the midship area, and is specifically designed to provide support and stability while paddling in a kneeling position. Here’s why you might need a canoe kneeling thwart:

Kneeling in a canoe lowers your center of gravity, improving stability and balance. The canoe kneeling thwart provides a solid platform for you to place your knees and maintain a stable position. This is particularly beneficial in rough waters, whitewater paddling, or situations where quick maneuvers are required.

Kneeling in a canoe offers advantages in terms of paddle control and power transfer. It allows you to engage your core muscles and utilize torso rotation for more efficient and powerful strokes. The kneeling thwart provides a point of contact and support for your knees, enabling you to maintain the kneeling position comfortably for extended periods.

By kneeling, you have better control over the canoe’s movements. It allows you to shift your weight more easily, facilitating quick turns, pivots, and corrections in various water conditions. The kneeling thwart acts as a reference point, allowing you to apply pressure and adjust your body position to navigate the canoe precisely.

For some paddlers, kneeling can be more comfortable than sitting on a seat for long periods. Kneeling helps to distribute body weight more evenly and reduces strain on the lower back. The kneeling thwart provides a dedicated space for your knees, relieving pressure and offering a more ergonomic position.

Canoe kneeling thwarts are typically removable, allowing you to adapt the canoe’s seating configuration to your needs. If you prefer sitting or if you have multiple paddlers with different preferences, the kneeling thwart can be easily detached or repositioned to accommodate different seating arrangements.

Kneeling in a canoe is a traditional paddling technique that has been practiced for centuries. It connects you to the history and heritage of canoeing, particularly in regions where kneeling was commonly employed by indigenous peoples or early explorers. Using a kneeling thwart allows you to engage with this traditional style of canoeing.

It’s worth noting that not all canoes come with a kneeling thwart as a standard feature. If your canoe doesn’t have one, you can purchase a kneeling thwart separately and install it according to the manufacturer’s instructions or seek assistance from a professional outfitter or canoe builder.

Overall, a canoe kneeling thwart provides stability, enhances paddling technique, and increases maneuverability while kneeling in a canoe. It can significantly improve your paddling experience, especially in challenging or dynamic water conditions.

As with many other accessories, you’ll be able to buy a kneeling thwart online from a variety of retailers. It’s best to buy one from the manufacturer of your canoe. However, it’s not difficult to make your own.

One of the best tutorials is found at Bear Mountain Boats.

7 – Knee padding is essential … for me!

Padding for my knees while canoeing is essential as I get older. On long trips I continually change my paddling position from seated to kneeling so comfort in both positions is a non-negotiable.

One method of padding your knees can be to simply wear volleyball knee pads, but this is quite uncomfortable. Knee pads will cut circulation and leave red welts, so the only real option is padding on the floor of your canoe.

If you are an avid tripper, it’s best to permanently attach the padding to the floor of the canoe instead of just throwing a piece of sponge down in the canoe.

A proper, semi-dense foam pad is fairly inobtrusive, durable and won’t need to be removed and transported separately on portages.

Here’s how you can make your own with nearly no work!

8 – Install a Lining hole in the bow/stern for control

Admittedly, I do not have a lining hole in my canoe because I rarely need to line my canoe through rapids or anywhere on a river. However, many paddlers find themselves either often or even exclusively on river routes where lining a canoe (guiding it through shallow turbulent water with ropes while standing outside of the canoe) is a regular activity.

Lining a canoe is necessary in shallow water where your weight would make the canoe hit the bottom of the shallow river section, but lining can present at least one BIG problem; If you tie your lining rope(s) to the carry handle on the front or back of a canoe, the force of your pull will potentially tip the canoe over into the water on its side.

If you could pull the canoe this way and that way with a rope that is attached lower to the water line (down the freeboard) than the carry handles or handholds, it would have less of a tendency to topple over.

Creating a lining hole in a canoe is a process that involves drilling a hole through the hull to allow for the attachment of a lining or painter line. This line can be used for various purposes, such as securing the canoe or towing it. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to create a lining hole in a canoe:

First of all, gather the necessary tools and materials: You will need the following tools and materials for this task: a drill with an appropriate drill bit, masking tape, a pencil or marker, sandpaper or a file, and marine sealant.

Then, choose the appropriate location on the canoe’s bow or stern for the lining hole. The location should be sturdy and free from any structural reinforcements or obstructions. It’s common to position the lining hole on the bow, just below the gunwale or on the stem.

Next, use masking tape to mark the spot where you want to drill the hole. The tape helps prevent the drill bit from slipping and also protects the canoe’s surface from scratches. Use a pencil or marker to mark the center of the lining hole on the tape.

Select a drill bit with a diameter suitable for your lining or painter line. It should be slightly larger than the diameter of the line to allow for smooth movement. Insert the drill bit into the drill, making sure it is securely tightened.

With caution, position the drill bit on the marked spot and start drilling. Apply steady pressure and keep the drill perpendicular to the canoe’s surface. Use a slow and controlled drilling speed to prevent overheating or splintering of the canoe’s material. Continue drilling until the hole is fully formed.

After drilling the hole, you may notice rough edges or burrs around the opening. To ensure a clean finish and prevent any potential snagging, carefully sand the edges of the hole using sandpaper or file. Smooth out any rough surfaces until the edges are even and free from any sharp edges.

To protect the lining hole from water intrusion and maintain the integrity of the canoe’s hull, apply a marine sealant around the edges of the hole. This helps create a watertight seal and prevents potential damage caused by moisture. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying and curing the sealant.

Attach the lining or painter line: Once the sealant has dried or cured, you can thread your desired lining or painter line through the lining hole. Ensure the line is securely fastened, tied, or attached according to your intended use.

DISCLAIMER!

It’s important to note that modifying your canoe by creating a lining hole may impact its structural integrity and void any warranties. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with this process, it’s recommended to consult with a professional canoe outfitter or contact the manufacturer for guidance specific to your canoe model.

That said most paddlers make their own painter line hole by drilling a hole and then inserting a piece of plastic plumbing pipe which is then secured by epoxy so it won’t slip out or allow water into the hull (usually the floatation chambers).

Key Takeaways

While there are numerous upgrades you can do to your canoe like a new gel coat, paint job, rudder installation, anchor addition, paddle and fishing rod holders, floatation upgrades, fancy seats with back rests, and more, experience in flatwater paddling has given me some insight into what I believe are the best upgrades for your time and money. The 8 upgrades oulined will most definitely increase every positive metric on your canoe!

Even if you only ever tackle one or two of these upgrades, your canoe will be a more functional, better-looking, and more valuable watercraft.

References: Bear Mountain Boats

Navigating river rapids with a kayak can be an exhilarating and challenging experience. It can also be dangerous and nerve-wracking! It requires proper technique, skill, and safety precautions.

I’ve been a paddle craft buff for over 40 years, but I’ve also gleaned a lot of information from experts who know way more than I do about the specific skills and thought processes you’ll need to navigate raging rivers successfully. Here are some essential tips to help you successfully navigate river rapids with a kayak, and then want to do it over and over again!

1 – Be sure to use the proper kayak!

You’d be surprised how many inexperienced paddlers are unsure of what type of kayak is needed (or can handle) rivers and whitewater. Even more concerning is how many paddlers try to “conquer” rapids using a kayak not designed for rough water (ie. a fishing kayak).

PLEASE opt for a kayak specifically designed for whitewater or river running. These kayaks are typically shorter, more maneuverable, and have higher rocker (the upward curve of the hull), allowing for better agility in rapids.

2 – Wear appropriate safety gear

Always wear a properly fitted personal flotation device (PFD) or life jacket when kayaking in rapids. Additionally, a helmet, neoprene spray skirt, and protective clothing can provide extra safety and protection.

Rivers are challenging in the best of circumstances so it’s never wise to kayak rapids without the most protection you can get, but at minimum, a helmet and PFD are absolute non-negotiables!

I might mention here that if you are traveling with a group, it’s imperative to know who is carrying what regarding safety gear, backup gear, maps, first aid, etc.

3 – Scout the rapids

Before attempting to navigate any rapid, take the time to scout the area. This involves visually inspecting the rapids from a safe vantage point on the riverbank. Look for potential hazards, such as rocks, strainers (obstacles that allow water to pass through but can trap a kayak), or strong currents.

Stoppers or holes are especially dangerous obstacles. Stoppers are present when the main flow of water down the rapids is recirculated back upstream in a turbulent, foamy mass. Kayaks and people can get stuck in a stopper and won’t be able to get out of big ones without help.

Try to avoid them, or if you can’t, be sure to keep your kayak facing downstream and don’t let it get turned sideways in the stopper.

Scouting rapids is done by even veteran river runners who know the river well. The conditions of a set of rapids will change dramatically from week to week when the weather is volatile, not to mention conditions changing from one year to the next which can be drastic enough to alter plans for your whole trip!

In this photo above, the paddler is “wave surfing” with a playboat, which is a specialized kayak made specifically for whitewater maneuverability. He’s located in a “stopper” and he’s facing upstream. This can be very dangerous for inexperienced paddlers, but it’s a standard maneuver for experts.

4 – Learn paddling techniques

Familiarize yourself with different paddling techniques used in whitewater kayaking. So much can be said about all the individual strokes needed for safety and success, but here’s where you can start.

The basic strokes include forward strokes, reverse strokes, sweep strokes, draw strokes, and braces. These techniques will help you control the kayak and maneuver through rapids effectively.

You can learn some basic paddle strokes like a draw stroke, sweep stroke and a brace (common to both canoes and kayaks) on our YouTube channel!

5 – Learn about and understand river features

Learn to read the river and understand its features. Rapids can have various components, including eddies (calm areas of water behind obstacles), waves, hydraulics (water recirculating back on itself), and holes (turbulent water with a depression). Knowing how to use these features to your advantage will make navigation easier and safer.

Water depth, which varies by season and by year, will play a crucial role in determining the condition of rapids for better or worse.

Many books have been written for just this purpose and it’s best to familiarize yourself with river reading.

If you are with a group and you are not experienced in whitewater kayaking, there should be an experienced and responsible paddler who understands the basic features of the river and whether or not everyone in the group has the skill set to navigate them. If not, a carry-around should be practiced.

6 – Practice Eddy-Hopping

Eddy hopping involves moving from one eddy to another while avoiding the main current. By utilizing eddies strategically, you can rest, plan your route, or avoid obstacles. Practice entering and exiting eddies smoothly to gain confidence in your maneuvering abilities.

Some eddies are large enough to accommodate a large group of paddlers while others are so small, it’s easy for anyone to miss it. Small eddies are often called micro-eddies.

Whoever is first into an eddy should move away from the eddy line to allow other paddlers into the eddy if kayaking with a group.

7 – Use Proper Body Positioning

Maintain a centered and balanced body position in your kayak. Keep your knees slightly bent and your weight forward, especially when paddling through waves or holes. This position provides stability and allows for quicker adjustments to changes in the water.

It should go without saying that a lower center of gravity (in any watercraft) is something everyone should be aware of and you should try to achieve. Low and in the middle; that’s the position that will allow you to maneuver quickly, properly, and safely.

8 – Communicate with your paddling partners

If you’re kayaking with others, establish clear communication signals or calls to coordinate movements and avoid collisions. Use hand signals or verbal commands to communicate your intentions and potential hazards.

Whitewater turbulence is often far too noisy to be able to easily communicate verbally.

It’s also crucial that you determine before your trip begins, some basic strategies like who will enter and exit an eddy first, who will be the first down the river and how your fellow paddlers are positioned in order. Often the best paddlers will be the first and the last in a group.

9 – Start with smaller rivers and easier rapids

Begin with rapids that match your skill level and gradually progress to more challenging ones. Starting with easier rapids allows you to build confidence, develop your technique, and make safer decisions on the water.

An experienced paddler or outfitter will be able to direct you to such rapids and it’s wise to plan your trip with this in mind. Different rivers have rapids of varying difficulties and the time of the season will also determine the force of each rapid.

For example, later in the Summer season, rapids become less turbulent and “smaller” but rocks and other obstacles can be more prominent during times of lower water.

Lower water levels can mean the emergence of larger stoppers where recirculating water pours back upstream into a depression and can hold a boat in its grip. Deeper water often makes for less pronounced waves and stoppers and may allow you to paddle right over the obstacle – especially if it is an unbroken wave.

A white water river is made up primarily of currents and eddies. It is up to the paddler to use these forces to maneuver and stop the boat. Entering currents, stopping the boat in case of a problem, to take a rest or to look at something interesting, and navigating your way across a river are vital skills that you need to learn to stay in control of your boat and to enjoy your time on white water.

– The Illustrated Handbook of Kayaking, Canoeing and Sailing” –

10 – Practice self-rescue techniques

It’s essential to know self-rescue techniques in case you capsize or encounter difficulties. Learn how to perform an Eskimo roll (flipping the kayak upright while remaining inside), wet exits (exiting the kayak while submerged), and swimming in whitewater currents.

Practicing these techniques in a controlled environment is crucial before attempting them in rapids.

In extreme cases you may find yourself the potential victim of the most common danger for river paddlers – ENTRAPMENT. This happens in fairly shallow water as your kayak gets pinned against a rock, tree or even the bottom of the river. If you’re trapped, fatalities can happen within seconds.

Be sure you are well-informed of these dangers and/or monitored closely by an instructor who can help.

11 – Never go alone

This is a tough one – I know! Sometimes there are no partners available for an afternoon trip to the water. Even so, it’s strongly recommended to kayak with a group or have a kayaking partner, especially in challenging rapids. Having others nearby ensures you have assistance in case of emergencies or the need for rescue.

Obviously, if you are VERY experienced and know the river well (then you’re likely not reading this article), you can fudge on this rule a bit, but for everyone else … you have your orders!

Key Takeaways

Remember, safety should always be your top priority when kayaking in river rapids. It’s crucial to have the necessary skills, experience, and knowledge to navigate safely. If you’re new to whitewater kayaking, consider taking lessons from a certified instructor or joining a local kayaking club to gain valuable guidance and experience.

One of the best resources to familiarize yourself with basic river kayaking procedures, protocols, techniques and best practices is a book by Bill Mattos and Jeremy Evans called “The Illustrated Handbook of Kayaking, Canoeing and Sailing”.

Not only is this book easy to read given its copious illustrations and photos but it gives you just the right amount of information so as not to discourage you with hundreds of pages of in-depth content that no one has time to read.

Mastering the art of kayaking is not the most important factor necessary for enjoying your kayak experience. However, knowing the art of kayak rolling will elevate your kayaking experience to the next level. Your self-assurance will rise, and you could even be inspired to experiment with different techniques.

There are many different types of kayak rolls; to master them properly, you might need to spend some time. To help you in the process, this guide provides an in-depth explanation of mastering the art of kayaking: exploring the four most common techniques. 

What Is a Kayak Roll? 

To master the techniques of kayak rolling, we need to understand what exactly a kayak roll is. A kayak roll, also known as an Eskimo roll or a simple roll, is used by kayakers to right themselves and their kayak after capsizing or flipping upside down.

The basic principles of a kayak roll involve the use of the body and paddle to generate leverage and momentum to roll the kayak back upright while the kayaker remains seated inside. 

Even though these are the basics, the techniques may vary depending on the person’s skill level, water conditions, and the type of kayak they are using. If you need more tips, tricks, and hands-on reviews on the best kayaks, you can find them here. 

Exploring the Four Most Common Techniques

There are many different types of recovery methods while kayaking. In this post, I will explore the four most common techniques so that you can choose the one that you love the most without delay.

1. C-to-C roll 

The C-to-C roll is one of the most common kayaking techniques that whitewater kayakers opt for. Moreover, this roll can be done even in narrow spaces. The name C to C roll comes from the two C-shaped arcs that trace with the paddle as the preferred safety roll. Furthermore, the C-to-C roll is easier and faster to learn. On top of that, it tends to be reliable in open and rough water.

Pros: 

• It has fast execution and provides deep stability.
• Easier to learn than other kayaking rolls.
• It is suitable for narrow spaces.

Cons: 

• It requires more initial setup than other rolls.

2. Screw Roll (Sweep Roll)

One of the common rolls that come to mind when someone says they are going to learn kayaking is the sweep or screw roll. Initially, a screw roll is one of the most commonly used safety rolls beginners would pick. This roll is slightly more challenging than the c-to-c roll. Moreover, it could be better for narrow spaces, but it requires less setup and relies more on support from the paddle. 

Pros: 

• Requires less setup for the roll.
• You will feel more secure in this roll.
• Perfect for open and calm water.

Cons: 

• It occupies space on the water.
• The sweep roll is more challenging than the C-to-C roll.

3. Reverse Sweep (Back Deck Roll) 

Whenever you find yourself leaning back against the kayak, you can recover yourself with the reverse sweep or back deck roll. It’s basically the typical screw roll done backward. Moreover, it’s very easy to perform, even when you are not in the ideal position. 

Pros: 

• While doing a backward roll, the reverse sweep is helpful
• Minimizes time spent upside down

Cons: 

• It’s kind of hard to maintain the connection with the kayak 

4. Hand Roll

Just like the name suggests, a hand roll is a kayak roll performed without a paddle. It’s an advanced kayak roll technique that involves rolling the kayak upright without the use of a paddle.

For this roll, the kayak relies completely on the hands and body’s movement. This roll is usually done by experienced kayakers who have mastered other roll techniques and challenge themselves to perform rolls and situations without using paddles. 

Pros: 

• You can retrieve the paddle when you lose it. 
• It boosts the kayaker’s confidence.
• Quick to set up underwater.

Cons: 

• It’s an advanced technique that’s hard to execute 

How long does it take to learn to roll a kayak?

Successfully executing a kayak roll is not typically possible on the first attempt. It takes time to learn to roll a kayak, and the process of learning kayak rolls depends on several factors, including individual physical abilities, previous experiences in water sports, and even comfort in the water.

Moreover, the frequency of practice, quality of instruction, and the specific technique being learned matter a lot while learning to kayak. 

For some people, two to three 90-minute sessions with a good instructor would be enough to grasp it. But others might require several months or even longer to master it.

Honestly speaking, for kayaking, it’s not only the techniques that matter. In fact, it’s regular practice, body awareness, and muscle memory that matter the most.

Where Should Beginners Learn to Roll? 

While learning to roll a kayak as a beginner, I would suggest honestly following a systematic approach that includes proper instruction and practice in controlled environments. As a beginner, it’s best that you don’t have to worry about the water temperature, strong currents, or any other obstacles that would come along. 

The ideal water condition that I would suggest for a first-time paddler is to choose calm, clear, and warm water that has a controlled environment, like a swimming pool, for example. As your skills improve, you can gradually increase the difficulty level. But I didn’t venture into dynamic waters until I had performed at least 100 successful rolls in calm water. And even after mastering it in calm water, I still needed an experienced instructor with me to make a difference in dynamic waters. 

A step-by-step guide to performing a C-to-C roll

As one of the most dependable rolls in challenging conditions, whitewater kayakers favor the C-to-C roll the most.

Step 1: Start with the paddle at a 90-degree angle. 

Step 2: Swing your paddle’s front blade along the surface of the water so that it’s positioned roughly at 90 degrees. 

Step 3: Keep in mind to keep the blades close to the surface.

Step 4: Ensure that the paddle is moving through the water. 

Step 5: Now press the left forearm against the side of the kayak so that it acts as a pivot.

Step 6: Then start applying downward pressure and continue doing it until you feel the support outstretched from the paddle blade.

Step 7: Use your hips and do a hup snap to turn the kayak back upright once you can feel that support. 

Step 8: Make sure to roll yourself out of the water along with the kayak’s back deck.  

Wrap Up 

Performing the first kayak roll is a significant milestone, so congratulations to yourself. Practice regularly, and you will become comfortable with your kayak in the water. Surely, it may sound crazy and dangerous at first, but it becomes an easy and instinctive response as you practice the steps. 

Raising alpacas for food and wool is a wonderful opportunity to provide yourself with a sustainable source of nutrition, natural fertilizer, and clothing, while simultaneously benefiting the environment.

As homesteaders, we are often challenged to create a more eco-friendly life by reducing our reliance on commercialized goods made from imported materials and fabrics. Enter, raising alpacas! These lovable camelids are not only great companions but can also be harnessed to produce both fleece (for warm clothes) as well as healthy meat that can provide your family and community with locally grown protein.

This article will take you through all the essential elements in successfully raising alpacas on your homestead, including a bit of history, tips & tricks on how to feed them properly, what kind of shelter they need, and even how to prepare a suitable environment for breeding!

What is an Alpaca and How is it Different Than a Llama?

Alpacas are a domesticated species of South American camelid, related to llamas and vicuñas. There are basically 2 species of alpaca; the Huacaya alpaca with a thick teddy bear-like coat and the Suri alpaca with thinner fur. They are raised for their soft, warm wool, which is often used to make clothing, blankets, and other textiles. Llamas, on the other hand, are less gentle, larger and more stubborn, and are also used as pack animals. Both alpacas and llamas are raised for their wool.

Homesteaders may raise alpacas for their wool, as well as for their meat, manure (which is a good fertilizer), as companion animals, or even for their breeding abilities.

Alpacas are also known for being easy to handle and having a gentle demeanor. They are not commonly kept for riding purposes, as they are smaller and more fragile than llamas, but they are great hiking and walking companions.

Alpacas are smaller than llamas, are typically about 36 inches tall at the shoulder, and weigh around 150-200 pounds. They have a more delicate, refined look, with a smaller head and ears, and a shorter, finer coat of wool.

Alpacas are primarily raised for their soft, warm wool, which is used to make clothing and other textiles.

Llamas, on the other hand, are larger, standing at around 42 inches tall at the shoulder, and can weigh up to 450 pounds. They have a more rugged appearance, with a larger head and ears, and a longer, coarser coat of wool.

Llamas are also raised for their wool, but are also used as pack animals and for their meat.

In addition, alpacas are known for being more docile and easy to handle, while llamas are known to be more independent and can be more difficult to train.

Why Would I Want to Raise Alpacas?

Alpacas provide a fairly wide range of attractive reasons for homesteaders to consider buying for their small farms.

Wool production: Alpacas produce soft, warm wool that is highly sought-after for clothing, blankets, and other textiles. Alpaca wool is hypoallergenic, durable, and lightweight.

In fact, alpacas were bred for the specific purpose of providing a luxurious fiber (wool) that is generally considered by everyone to be superior to sheep wool. Alpaca wool is known for its softness and lack of itchiness, making it a popular choice for clothing and blankets.

Alpaca wool is warmer than sheep’s wool, due to its unique hollow fiber structure. This makes it an ideal choice for cold-weather clothing. It’s also hypoallergenic, making it a perfect for people with sensitive skin.

Alpaca wool is naturally strong and durable, making it resistant to pilling and wear, and the fibers have a natural water-resistant property that makes it more resistant to water than sheep’s wool.

As if those were not enough reasons to love alpaca wool it also comes in a wide range of natural colors, from white to black, and many shades of brown, gray, and fawn.

Alpaca wool is an eco-friendly alternative to sheep’s wool, as alpacas are most often raised in a more sustainable way, without the use of pesticides or herbicides.

Alpaca wool contains less lanolin than sheep’s wool, so it requires less washing and less soap, making it more eco-friendly and cost-effective.

Fertilizer: Alpacas produce manure that is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, which makes it an excellent fertilizer for gardens and crops.

Nitrogen is necessary for leaf and stem growth, while phosphorus is important for root growth and blooming so the combination is nearly ideal. Even better (in my opinion) is the fact that alpaca manure has a very low odor compared to other types of manure, which makes it more tolerable to use as a fertilizer.

Alpaca manure has a lower ammonia content than sheep and cattle manure, which makes it less likely to burn plants when applied fresh and it’s less likely to contain parasites than other types of manure, making it safer to use on food crops.

Alpacas are browsers, which means they eat mainly leaves and stems, so the manure has fewer weed seeds than other types of manure.

On top of that, alpaca manure is easy to handle because it is dry, and forms pellets, which makes it easy to collect and spread. There are no big, thick, wet patties!

Alpaca manure contains organic matter, which can help to improve soil structure and water-holding capacity. More so than most other manure, alpaca manure contains beneficial microorganisms that can help to improve soil health and fertility.

Who knew poop could have so many benefits and how different one animal’s waste can be from another’s?

Meat production: Alpaca meat is not commonly eaten in most countries and the consumption of alpaca meat is not really that widespread. However, in countries where it is consumed, it is considered a delicacy and a healthy meat option.

The meat is lean, very low in fat, and considered a delicacy in some cultures.

The meat of an alpaca is very high in protein, and at the same time, it’s low in cholesterol, making it an obvious choice for those with high cholesterol and other related health issues.

And, because it is low in calories, it is certainly a good choice for people on a diet. The iron content of alpaca meat is higher than beef and many people suffer from iron deficiency!

Alpaca meat is also exceptionally high in omega-3 fatty acids, which can help to reduce inflammation and improve heart health, while at the same time, it offers an above-average dose of zinc, potassium, and magnesium.

Alpaca meat has a rich, gamey flavor, similar to venison, but milder and with less fat. I’ve tried it and all I would say is that it’s “okay”. For flavor in sauces and burgers, I still like the flavor of lean ground beef.

Companion animals: Alpacas have a gentle disposition and are known for being easy to handle, which makes them popular as companion animals. They can be kept for hiking, walking, and other leisure activities.

Alpacas are easy to care for and don’t need a lot of grooming. They do not need to be clipped, and only need their toenails trimmed occasionally. They’re known for their gentle and docile nature, making them easy to handle and train. They are also less aggressive than other camelids, such as llamas.

Alpacas are known for being good with children, and are often used in petting zoos and educational programs. Many may not realize that they are also relatively quiet animals, and only make a humming noise, which is less disruptive than the typical baaing of sheep or the braying of donkeys.

Alpacas are known to get along well with other animals, such as horses, cows, and sheep. They can also be kept with other camelids such as llamas.

This gentle animal can survive very nicely with less space than other large animals, such as horses, and can be kept on small farms or even suburban properties.

Investment: Some people raise alpacas as an investment, as the value of alpacas can increase over time. Alpaca breeding is a viable business, with a good return on investment.

Not only can their value increase over the short term, but while you own alpacas, there are lots of factors that make them a good investment even in light of the costs of keeping them. Here are some examples:

1. Wool production: Alpacas produce a soft, warm wool that is highly sought-after for clothing, blankets, and other textiles. The price of the wool can vary depending on the quality and quantity, but it can be a significant source of income.
2. Breeding: Alpaca breeding can be a profitable business. Alpacas can be sold as breeding stock, and the offspring can be sold for a profit.
3. Showing: Alpacas can be shown in competitions, and awards and ribbons can lead to a higher selling price for the animal.
4. Agritourism: Many farmers open their farm to visitors, providing educational opportunities for children and adults to learn about alpacas and their care. This can be a source of income from visitors fees or from selling alpaca related products.
5. Appreciation in value: Alpacas can appreciate in value over time. As the demand for alpacas increases, the value of the animals can increase as well.
6. Low maintenance cost: Alpacas are relatively low-maintenance animals and do not require much investment in terms of feeding, housing and medical care.

Conservation: Alpacas are native to South America and their population is declining in the wild. By raising alpacas in farms, you can help to conserve the species.

Domesticated alpacas can help to preserve the genetic diversity of the wild alpaca population, as they can be used to breed with wild alpacas to improve the genetic diversity of the wild population.

Keeping and raising alpacas can increase awareness about the importance of alpaca conservation and their role in traditional cultures, encouraging more people to support conservation efforts. We’ve noticed this increase in awareness in our local area through the efforts of one very active and vibrant alpaca farm!

Keeping and raising alpacas can provide an alternative income for people who live in areas where wild alpaca populations are declining, which can help to reduce the pressure on wild populations.

Similarly keeping and raising alpacas can help to support conservation efforts in the countries where they are native, by providing funding and resources to protect wild alpacas and their habitats.

Alpacas that are kept in captivity can be reintroduced to the wild if their population is in decline and if their habitat is protected.

Educational opportunities: Many farmers open their farms to visitors, providing educational opportunities for children and adults to learn about alpacas and their care.

Visitors can have the opportunity to pet, feed and interact with the alpacas, which can be a fun and educational experience for children and adults alike. Also, many alpaca farms offer hands-on activities such as spinning, weaving and knitting with alpaca wool, which can be a unique and educational experience.

Some alpaca farms even offer the opportunity to hike or trek with the alpacas.

Some alpaca farms participate in events and festivals, where visitors can learn about alpacas and see them being shown in competitions.

One farm near my home offers the chance for visitors to purchase alpaca-related products such as wool, yarn, clothing, and souvenirs, which I know provides an additional income for the farm.

How Can I Start an Alpaca Farm For Profit?

Starting an alpaca farm for profit involves several steps, including researching the market, obtaining land and facilities, acquiring alpacas, and developing a business plan. Here are some steps to consider when starting an alpaca farm for profit:

• Research the demand for alpaca products in your area, as well as the competition and pricing. Also, research the costs associated with raising and caring for alpacas.
• You’ll have to get the necessary land and facilities to raise and care for alpacas. Alpacas require relatively low-maintenance facilities, such as pasture, shelters, and fencing.
• Buy a few alpacas, either by purchasing them or bartering with an alpaca herd owner. It’s important to research and purchase alpacas with good genetics, as they will be more valuable for breeding and showing.
• Develop a business plan that outlines your goals, target market, strategies, and financial projections. This will help you to stay organized and focused as you start and grow your alpaca farm.
• Develop a marketing strategy that includes a website, social media presence, and networking with other alpaca farmers. Participate in alpaca shows and events to promote your farm and alpacas.
• Network with other alpaca farmers, industry organizations, and potential customers to learn about best practices and gain insight into the industry.
• Diversify your income streams by raising alpacas for wool, meat, and breeding stock, as well as agritourism, and offering products made from alpaca wool such as clothing, blankets, and yarn.
• Seek guidance from experts and organizations that can provide resources and support for starting and running a successful alpaca farm.

Starting an alpaca farm can be a rewarding and profitable venture, but it requires research, planning, and dedication. It’s important to understand the market, the costs and the potential income streams, before starting a farm. As with any business, it requires hard work and dedication, but if done right, it can be a profitable and enjoyable venture.

How Much Money Can I Make With My Alpacas?

With only 2 or 3 alpacas as pets (and eventually lean protein patties in your freezer), the options of making money are a bit limited. However, with a few more animals added to the herd, the options expand. A breeding-quality baby (also called a “cria”) with an excellent pedigree can fetch $10,000 and a female can give birth to one baby annually for up to 15 years. The fleece can bring as much as $500 per animal per year.

As you can imagine, prices vary wildly and you can find a cria for as little as a few hundred dollars. This would be a pet-quality animal and not of the quality needed for breeding. However, even pet-quality alpacas can be raised for meat on a homestead.

If you have the ability to weave fine blankets from the fleece of an alpaca, it’s possible to sell blankets for well over $200, though most alpaca owners will sell the fleece at the stage of shearing, so the profit won’t be as high.

The various cuts of meat from an alpaca can total many hundreds of dollars since it is considered an exotic meat. For example, a hind quarter shank can sell for $100.

Agritourism is another source of income if you set up your small (or large) farm to be visitor-friendly and charge an admittance fee. This can bring in anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars annually.

Can I Just Have One Alpaca?

It’s possible to own just one alpaca, but it is generally recommended to have at least two alpacas in order to provide them with socialization and companionship. Alpacas are herd animals and they can get lonely if they are the only one. In some cases, undue mental stress in the animal can be a result of living without an alpaca companion or two.

Having a single alpaca can also have some drawbacks, such as:

• Alpacas are social animals, and a single alpaca will not be able to breed and produce offspring.
• Alpacas are herd animals, and being alone can make them stressed, which can affect their health.
• Alpacas are often shown in pairs or groups, so having just one alpaca would limit your showing opportunities.
• Having just one alpaca may not be as profitable as having a pair or a small herd, as it will limit the income streams available such as breeding and wool production.

Having said that, if you plan to keep just one alpaca as a companion animal and not for breeding or showing, then it is possible to have just one. It’s important to provide them with socialization and companionship, like spending time with them and providing them with toys or other animals.

What Do Alpacas Eat?

Alpacas are herbivores and primarily eat grass and hay, but they may also eat small amounts of other plants and shrubs. They are known to be very picky eaters, so they may not eat certain types of plants or hay. They do well in a pasture of native plants in the warm weather, while good quality hay and supplements will do nicely during the winter season.

Nearly all the alpaca’s nutritional needs will be met if they are left to graze in a field of wild grasses during warm weather.

However, during periods of cold or if they are pregnant, you’ll need to offer them a combination of good quality hay (like for horses) as well as nutritional pellets or commercial alpaca food.

Alpacas are really efficient eaters. Because they are created to live and thrive in the harsh high altitude Andes of South America, their bodies are designed for pulling every last bit of nutrition out of a small amount of pasture.

Much like a cow, alpacas are ruminants who chew cud and produce rumen. They have 3 compartments in their stomachs. This allows a 130 pound alpaca to only require about 2 – 3 pounds of food per day (only about 1.7% their body weight or less).

Alpacas will need a good supply of minerals which are harder to obtain during the Winter while living in a barn or shelter with no natural grasses growing. Supplements are essential and can be purchased separately or included in various commercially available alpaca foods.

PRO TIP – While alpacas love fruits and vegetables, it’s best to chop up these organic scraps into small portions and only feed it in limited amounts occassionally. Too much sugar (in most fruits and many vegetables) can be dangerous to your alpaca. Besides this, alpacas are often suspicious of new food and may not want it at all.

How Much Land Do I Need to Raise Alpacas?

The recommended space for alpacas to thrive, varies significantly. The suggested acreage requirements for a herd of alpaca ranges from a minimum of two acres of grazing land per alpaca to one acre for every 10 alpacas. While indoors, a pellet and hay-fed alpaca needs around 40 square feet of personal space.

However, if the land is of poor quality and not suitable for grazing, or if you live in a area with harsh winters, you may need more land to provide adequate food for the alpacas.

How Much Does an Alpaca Cost and Where Can I Get One?

Alpacas come in a variety of “qualities” like show-quality, breeding-quality and pet-quality. Prices range from $0-$500,000 though most pet quality alpacas will cost you around $500-$1,000. Show quality alpacas will range from $3,000-$20,000. A high-quality male can sell for between $40,000-60,000.

It’s interesting to note that a baby alpaca (cria) will cost about the same as an adult (unless the adult is 20 years old, which is near the end of life).

Many alpaca farms dot the countryside all over Canada and the U.S. Most are willing to sell you an alpaca. Unless you personally know a farm owner with alpacas, the best way to find an alpaca is to simply type “alpacas for sale” into your search engine! Voila!

Does My Alpaca Need a Shelter?

Alpacas are hardy animals and can tolerate cold temperatures well, but they do require protection from extreme cold and harsh winter weather. It is recommended to provide them with a barn, or at least a well-protected horse walk-in shelter during the winter months to protect them from the elements and to ensure that they have a dry and comfortable place to rest.

The shelter or barn should be well-ventilated and provide enough room for all of the alpacas to lie down comfortably. It should also be protected from drafts and have a solid roof to keep out snow and rain.

Additionally, it is helpful if the shelter or barn is equipped with a heating source, especially if you live in an area with extremely cold winter temperatures. It is also important to provide them with plenty of fresh hay, which they can use as bedding and to help keep warm.

Alpacas do not require a barn or shelter during summer, but they do need access to a shaded area and fresh water.

Do Alpacas Spit?

Alpacas are known to spit, which is a behavior they use to assert dominance or express discomfort or aggression. Alpacas will spit at other alpacas or at humans that they perceive as a threat. However, under normal conditions, they rarely spit at humans and will only spit when when establishing the herd authority structure or sometimes when quarelling over food.

When an alpaca spits, it expels a small amount of partially digested food from its stomach, which can be quite unpleasant for the person or animal on the receiving end.

The spit is usually a combination of saliva and partially digested food, and it can contain bacteria and parasites that can cause health problems.

There are several reasons why alpacas may spit, including:

• Dominance: Alpacas will spit at other alpacas to assert dominance or to establish their place in the herd hierarchy.
• Discomfort or Aggression: Alpacas may spit when they are uncomfortable or threatened, such as when they are handled roughly or when they are confined in a small space.
• Fear or Stress: Alpacas may spit when they are frightened or stressed, such as when they are introduced to new animals or when they are moved to a new location.
• Hunger or Thirst: Alpacas may spit when they are hungry or thirsty, indicating that they need to be fed or given water.

To avoid alpacas spitting, it’s important to handle them gently and calmly, and to provide them with a comfortable and stress-free environment. It’s also important to establish a routine for feeding and care and to provide them with enough space to move around freely. Additionally, providing them with a balanced diet and enough fresh water can help reduce the risk of them spitting.

It’s also good to note that spitting is a normal behavior for alpacas and is not usually cause for concern unless it becomes excessive or aggressive. If you notice that your alpaca is spitting excessively or becoming aggressive, it’s best to consult with a veterinarian or an alpaca behaviorist to determine the cause and to develop a plan to address the issue.

Are Alpacas Hard to Keep Clean Like a Cow?

Alpacas are relatively easy to keep clean, as they are naturally clean animals and have a tendency to stay clean. Their thick and fluffy coats help to keep them warm and dry, and their soft padded feet help to prevent them from getting muddy or dirty.

It’s also worth noting that alpacas are generally known to be fairly odor-less compared to all other farm herd animals like cows, pigs and goats.

However, it’s important to keep their living areas clean to avoid the buildup of feces and urine, which can cause health problems. Regularly cleaning their living area and providing them with fresh bedding can help to keep them clean and healthy.

Additionally, alpacas should be regularly groomed to remove tangles and dirt from their coat, and to prevent matting. Grooming can be done with a soft brush or a comb, and can be done on a regular basis to help keep their coat clean and healthy.

PRO TIP – Alpacas do not require regular baths, as they are clean animals and a bath can strip their coat of the natural oils that protect their skin.

Alpacas need to have access to fresh water and a clean area to drink and bathe in, so that they can maintain their cleanliness.

Overall, alpacas are relatively easy to keep clean, and some long-time owners have asserted that they are easier to maintain than dogs and cats!

Will Alpacas Breed on my Farm?

Alpacas can breed and reproduce in a farm environment, but it will likely be a disaster if they don’t have the appropriate living conditions and care to support breeding like a shelter from the elements, enough space to avoid crowding, a hygienic place to live and, of course, good food and water.

Alpacas reach sexual maturity at around 18-24 months of age, and they have a breeding season that usually runs from late spring to early fall.

The breeding process typically begins with a process called “herding” where the male alpaca, called a “male” or “macho” will pursue and herd the females, called “hembra” during the mating season.

For successful breeding, it is important to have a healthy male and female alpaca, and to provide them with appropriate living conditions, including a proper diet, adequate space, and protection from harsh weather. It is also important to ensure that the alpacas are free from any diseases or parasites that may affect their ability to breed. This is where a good veterinarian is crucial!

Additionally, while alpacas can breed in a farm environment, it is important to have an experienced and knowledgeable breeder, who can help you to understand the breeding process, and to ensure that your alpacas are healthy and well-cared for.

You’ll want to have proper facilities for breeding and birthing, such as a breeding pen, quarantine facilities, and veterinary care. Before the baby is born, it would be a very good idea to formulate a plan for the care and management of the cria (baby alpaca) starting moments after birth.

How Do I Shear My Alpaca?

The best answer for how to shear your alpace is that YOU don’t! Shearing should be done by a professional shearer, who has experience and knowledge of the proper techniques to ensure the safety and well-being of the alpaca.

Alpacas should be sheared once a year, usually in the spring, before the hot weather starts. This is the optimal time to shear them as the fleece is at its thickest and the weather is mild enough to avoid any stress on the animal due to the heat.

When shearing an alpaca, the shearer will use sharp electric or manual shears to remove the fleece, taking care to avoid cutting the skin.

The shearer will start by shearing the legs and then move on to the body, taking care to keep the animal calm and comfortable throughout the process.

It’s also important to note that alpacas should not be sheared too short as it can expose the skin to sunburn and other issues. It’s recommended to leave about an inch of fleece on the animal for protection.

After shearing, the fleece should be cleaned, carded, and spun into yarn, which will prepare it for sale or for the next step in processing.

Should I Have an Alpaca Veterinarian?

It is highly recommended to have a veterinarian who is familiar with alpacas and has experience treating and caring for them. Alpacas have specific health needs, and a veterinarian who is experienced in treating alpacas (or experience with camelids – species in the camel family) will be better equipped to diagnose and deal with health issues than a local dog and cat veterinarian (who may not know anything about camelids).

An alpaca veterinarian will have knowledge about the specific diseases that alpacas are prone to, such as parasites and dental issues, and will also be familiar with the proper vaccinations and treatments for those diseases.

They will also know the best techniques for performing routine medical procedures, such as blood draws and vaccinations, which will reduce the stress on the animal.

Additionally, having a veterinarian who is familiar with alpacas can help you to develop a herd health program, which will include regular check-ups, vaccinations, and parasite control, to ensure that your alpacas are healthy and well-cared for.

Not all veterinarians are familiar with alpacas, so it is advisable to look for a veterinarian that has experience with alpacas or camelids specifically. You can ask for recommendations from other alpaca owners or breeders, or check with your local alpaca association for a list of alpaca veterinarians in your area.

Raising Alpacas – Key Takeaways

Compared to traditional farm animals, alpacas are low maintenance, friendly animals that have a relatively high return on investment if managed properly.

With a variety of income streams from alpaca farming, they are most often a joy to raise. Many alpacas are kept purely as pets, which speaks to the gentle nature and demeanor of the breed.

Developing good relationships with other local breeders, veterinarians and shearers will go a long way to ensuring the success of your small or large scale alpaca farm.

Remember, they’ll need enough land to graze, clean water and proper food, as well as shelter from harsh weather elements, much like any other farm animal.

Alpaca farming requires knowledge, dedication, and proper care to ensure the health and well-being of the alpacas. With the appropriate knowledge and resources, raising alpacas can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience.

References:

• https://thecapecoop.com/alpacas-for-beginners/
• https://www.guidetoprofitablelivestock.com/howtoraisealpacas/how-much-money-can-you-make-raising-alpacas.html
• https://cottoncreekfarms.com/alpaca-facts-faqs/

Have you ever considered raising deer for food? For many homesteaders, this is a viable option for obtaining fresh, organic meat and it can be for you too! Not only is deer meat (also called “venison”) healthy and delicious (and free from everything bad like GMO feed, hormones, and other questionable inclusions found in commercial meat), but it can also be a sustainable source of income for your family.

In this blog post, we’ll explore the benefits of raising deer for food and how to get started with this rewarding endeavor. In fact, aside from the logistical issues of getting started raising cervids (members of the deer family), deer meat has no downside, and all upside when compared with meat from other comparable sources like cows, pigs, etc.

I live near a deer farm and I’ve also researched deer farming for many hours over many days, so if you’re ready to learn more about homestead deer farming, read on!

Can I Raise My Own Deer for Food?

It is very possible to raise deer for food on a small scale, but it is important to check with your local and state regulations before doing so. Some states may have specific requirements or regulations for raising deer for personal consumption, such as obtaining a permit or following certain guidelines for animal welfare and disease control.

Other issues involve investing in land, fencing, some equipment, supplies, and education! (the education is for you, not the deer).

One big impediment will be that you’ll likely need at least 1 acre (preferably 2 acres) for each deer to graze and forage for food. It’s possible to have less land, but you’ll need to purchase or supply them with more food, and there could be some behavioral issues or problems with disease in a smaller pasture or paddock.

That said, many hobby deer farmers have chosen to raise whitetail deer because of the low-maintenance nature of raising cervids compared to cows, goats, pigs and even chickens.

Why Should I Bother Raising My Own Deer?

Raising deer can offer a wide variety of benefits including the fact that deer consume less food than livestock, they don’t negatively affect the land as much as cows and pigs, and they produce much healthier meat with less fat and no chemicals. They also reproduce over more of their lifespan and grow more quickly to maturity than traditional livestock.

While it may be hard to believe, the cervid-raising industry (raising mammals in the deer family like Elk, Reindeer, Whitetail Deer, etc.) is one of America’s fastest-growing rural industries.

The demand for venison is at a peak in North America, and some fast-food restaurants have even capitalized on this trend by offering their own versions of deer meat sandwiches. The demand was so high for some restaurants that new sources of meat needed to be found overseas!

The industry (from a larger-scale, money-making point of view) has grown to generate nearly $8 billion dollars for the U.S. economy and supports tens of thousands of jobs, according to the North America Deer Farmer’s Association.

In fact, because very little work is needed to condition the land/soil (like traditional farming), raising deer has been the answer to saving many family farms across the country that are having a hard time paying the necessary costs to continue maintaining ownership of their properties.

On a smaller scale, the same benefits are mostly available to homesteaders.

For example:

• Raising deer for food is a viable option for homesteaders looking to obtain fresh, organic meat.
• Deer meat is healthy and delicious, making it an appealing choice for many.
• Raising deer can be a sustainable source of income for families who choose to pursue this endeavor.
• Raising deer does not destroy your land.
• Food requirements for a deer are far less than raising a cow.
• Raising deer maximizes land use potential (as opposed to cattle-raising)
• Raising deer provides you with the meat of an animal whose demand in North America has been growing by at least 25% annually for the past 5-10 years.
• Raising deer will provide you with the lowest maintenance farming style of virtually all other options including other livestock options, poultry, agricultural options, and aquaculture options like fish farming.
• Deer antlers have a variety of medicinal uses, so very little goes to waste.

Starting Your Own Deer Farm (What to Consider)

Starting a deer farm requires knowledge of land selection, species selection, legal permits and regulations, veterinary services, fencing and housing, and proper nutrition. You need to have enough land to safely raise deer and house them comfortably.

What Species of Deer Should I Raise?

Many species are great to raise for meat, including fallow deer, reindeer, axis, elk, red, and whitetail deer.

The types of deer best suited for raising depends on your location; some states may only permit certain breeds or classes of deer to be raised. Before you purchase any animals you will need to obtain any necessary permits from your local authorities as well as enlist the help of a veterinarian to ensure that your animals are healthy and up-to-date on vaccinations.

You’ll also need to build a fence or fences around your property so you will need to consider the costs involved as well as how it can withstand any weather conditions.

What Do Farmed Deer Eat?

When it comes to feeding your animals, you should provide them with appropriate feed at all times and store it safely away from pests or diseases that could harm your deer. Hay, grains, supplements, or even fresh fruits and vegetables can be consumed by deer if done so properly.

Farmed deer should be fed a diet that is high in protein and energy to support growth and milk production. Here are some other common options for feeding farmed deer:

• Grasses, clovers, and legumes can make up a large portion of a deer’s diet, especially in the summer months. This is often called “forage”.
• Mixtures (aka. Concentrates) that are high in protein and energy, such as soybeans, corn, barley, oats, or wheat.
• A mineral supplement is important for deer to maintain their health, especially if they are not getting enough minerals from their forage or concentrates.

You’ll also need to make sure the deer have access to clean water at all times.

The right balance between protein and carbohydrates is essential in ensuring that they grow healthy and strong.

Feeding schedules should also be taken into account when raising deer. An adult animal should receive feed twice daily while younger ones may require smaller amounts more frequently throughout the day.

It’s a good idea to consult with experts in your area and research the specific requirements for the type of deer you plan to raise, as some deer may have different nutritional needs.

Obtaining assistance from local farmers could be a problem if you are perceived as a potential competitor or just needlessly “snoopy”.

How Fast Will a Deer Grow to Maturity?

The growth rate of farmed deer can vary (as you can imagine) with their diet, environment and genetics, but a year and a half to two years is the normal timeframe needed from birth to butcher for most species of deer.

Properly managed farms can expect their animals to reach marketable weight within two years with minimal bumps along the way such as health issues or poor nutrition practices leading to slower growth rates than expected due to stunted development in young animals due to improper management practices during their growing phases.

Challenges in Running a Deer Farm

While it is true that operating a small-scale deer farm (or just raising one deer) is relatively low-maintenance, it’s also true that there are inevitable challenges (like most things) to successfully bringing the deer to market or table. Some challenges include proper feeding techniques, shelter requirements, risk management, and healthcare.

One of the factors often overlooked by a small-scale farmer is the process of both health record keeping and veterinary check-ups. Some regions or states require proper records in order to help contain or control potential disease outbreaks.

Keeping birth and genetics records is important especially when it comes to breeding. Some farms (or specific bucks or does on that farm) often can get well known (in a good way or bad) and become in demand (or not) for breeding purposes.

How Much Land do I Need to Raise my Deer?

The amount of land needed to raise deer for food depends on quite a few variables, including the number of deer you plan to raise, the type of deer, and the local climate and terrain. Overall, it’s recommended to have at least 2-5 acres per deer, but it’s best to consult with experts in your area and research the specific requirements for the type of deer you plan to raise.

Additionally, you will need to check with your local and state regulations on raising deer for personal consumption.

Is It Legal to Farm Raise Deer in my State or Province?

It is legal to farm-raise deer in the United States, but the regulations and requirements vary by state. Some states have specific regulations for raising deer for personal consumption or for commercial purposes, such as obtaining a permit or following certain guidelines for animal welfare and disease control. Additionally, some states may have restrictions on the types of deer that can be raised, or on the number of deer that can be kept on a property.

In Canada, it is also legal to farm-raise deer as long as the farmer obtains the proper licenses and permits from the appropriate government agency. Farmers may be subject to federal regulations under the Health of Animals Act and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) guidelines.

It is important to check with your Provincial/State/local authorities to understand the regulations and requirements for raising deer in your area. It’s also important to be aware of laws and regulations related to the sale of deer meat, and how the deer should be processed, as it can vary from state to state.

It’s never a bad idea to make sure that you have the needed facilities and resources to raise the deer in a safe and humane way. Venison produced in a “deer-mill” or cramped and neglected environment will likely be at least less healthy and tasty, and at worst, dangerous, unhealthy and potentially toxic.

In What Type of Field or Enclosure Should I Keep Farmed Deer?

Farmed deer require a bit of extra precaution to keep contained since they are able to leap very high, unlike a typical cow. Fences should be at least 8 feet tall and should be purchased specifically for deer (high tensile) since deer will probably test the integrity of the fence more than would a cow. Electric fences are another excellent option.

In addition to high-tensile fencing, a woven wire fence is often used for deer since it is more durable and measurably stronger than typical livestock fencing. It’s possible to add a section of barbed wire to discourage escape, but don’t use barbed wire as the only type of fencing since this can be dangerous and even fatal to deer.

Electric fencing is one of the best options but you need to make sure you’re maintaining it and setting it properly so it’s set high enough to deter, but not so high it harms the deer.

A high fence with barbed wire or electric current will deter any predators in addition to keeping your deer where they belong.

Here is a very good guideline for how to keep farmed deer from escaping their enclosures and what to do if it escapes.

A shelter like a horse run-in shed is perfect for keeping deer in a paddock.

Will Farmed Deer Reproduce?

Farmed deer can and will reproduce, but how successfully they do so, depends on the species of deer and the conditions of the farm. Some species, such as white-tailed deer, typically reproduce well in captivity, while others might have lower reproductive rates.

Factors such as genetics, nutrition, and health can also affect a deer’s ability to reproduce. Additionally, farmers may choose to control the breeding of their deer through techniques such as artificial insemination or using contraception.

Unlike cattle, domesticated deer can reproduce continually for up to 20 years!

Some species of deer, such as white-tailed deer, have a high reproductive rate and can have multiple fawns per year. That’s why we like the idea of raising white-tailed deer over a variety of other species.

Most other deer have a lower reproductive rate. White-tailed deer typically have one fawn per year, but they can have twins or triplets as well.

How do I Find a Veterinarian for my Deer?

It can be challenging to find a veterinarian who is experienced in caring for farmed deer since this is really a very specialized field, but consulting veterinarians that have experience with livestock is a good starting point. Contacting your state’s Department of Agriculture will nearly always lead you to a livestock veterinarian.

Here’s a good example from the State of Tennessee.

Most vets are not familiar with the unique health needs of deer and may not have the equipment or expertise needed to diagnose and treat deer-specific illnesses.

It’s best to search for a veterinarian who has experience treating deer or other large farm animals and has the equipment and knowledge to handle them. Some states have specialized large animal veterinarians that could be contacted instead of a local clinic that specializes in poodles and kittens!

It might be worth reaching out to other deer farmers in your area to see if they know of a veterinarian who can help. It’s also important to establish a good relationship with a veterinarian early on, so you have someone to turn to in case of an emergency.

How Do I Process the Deer Once it’s Ready for Butchering?

Processing and butchering deer requires knowledge and experience, so it’s recommended to have the help of an experienced person or hire a professional butcher. Also, it’s important to follow sanitation and safety guidelines to ensure that the meat is safe for consumption.

The deer should be harvested in a humane manner, with minimal stress to the animal. You can do this with a rifle or bow, or by using captive bolt stunning. As a kid growing up on a farm, I’ve done this personally (with cows) with a .22 caliber rifle between the eyes. I know it sounds cruel, but at point-blank range, it’s the same as using a captive bolt gun.

The deer should be skinned and quartered as soon as possible after harvest, to prevent spoilage and to make it easier to handle the meat.

The meat should be cooled as quickly as possible to prevent bacterial growth and then aged for at least a few days to a week to allow the meat to tenderize and develop flavor.

Cutting and packaging: The meat should be cut into steaks, roasts, and other cuts, and packaged for storage or sale.

Raising Your Own Deer – Key Takeaways

Deer farming is becoming increasingly popular among business owners who want to raise deer in a controlled environment while reaping all the benefits associated with selling all sorts of products from these animals such as meat, leather goods, antlers, etc .

However, there are many things that need to be considered before starting up such an operation such as land selection, species selection, legal permits & regulations, veterinarian services & costs associated with building fencing around pens/enclosures/housing facilities.

Also, proper nutrition must be provided at all times along with understanding growth rates & challenges associated with running this type of business. We’ve outlined a few of these challenges in this article.

With careful planning, anyone wanting to start up their own successful deer farm can do it if they understand what needs are involved and if they’re ready to tackle the challenges.

BEFORE YOU GO… here’s a very interesting television news feature on an Oklahoma deer farm operation that can give some great insight into even a very small farm of 1-5 deer that you might make!

References:

• North American Deer Farming Association
• Modern Farmer
• ontario.ca/page/farm-layout-deer-and-elk

Raising oysters at home is a form of aquaculture, which is the farming of aquatic organisms such as fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. Oysters are actually a type of mollusk and there are over 60 species.

More and more people are starting to understand the benefits of raising oysters, and beyond the obvious reason of adding to the sustainability of your own household’s food supply, there are a number of other compelling reasons.

By raising your own oysters, you’ll assure that you’re getting the best quality if you control as many factors as you can. The oysters will always be much fresher (if you want them to be) than purchasing them anywhere else, and you can even grow them for profit if they are well-managed.

Other advantages of raising oysters include water cleaning/filtration provided by the oysters and the fact that (unlike all other forms of aquaculture) oysters require no food supply provided by the farmer.

Methods of Growing Oysters

The topic of how to raise oysters using which methods can be very in-depth and extensive, but to simplify as much as possible, there are basically 2 methods of growing oysters. One method is called bottom culture which allows oysters to use the natural sea floor as a growing environment. The other method is off-bottom culture which suspends the oysters in cages or mesh bags that float just under the surface.

Each method has its pros and cons, but after researching extensively, it seems like a floating or suspended cage or bag is bit easier since it doesn’t rely as much on tidal movements and it allows the oysters to remain close to the surface where they’ll have the most dissolved oxygen.

The off-bottom system is also a bit more controlled and it’s safer for the oysters.

Can I Raise Oysters at Home?

One can certainly raise oysters in a backyard aquaculture environment, with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. However, growing oysters outside of the ocean does require meticulous monitoring of water conditions and attention to detail, along with some very specific knowledge and training.

Here are some basic steps you’ll need to take in order to create your own backyard oyster farm, and we’ll expand on the details later in this article.

• Obtain oyster spat (baby oysters) from a hatchery or supplier. These can be purchased in bulk or as individual units, such as oyster shells with attached spat.
• Prepare a tank or container that can hold water and has a filtration system to maintain the water quality. The tank should have enough space for the oysters to grow, with a minimum volume of 20 gallons (75 L) for every 1,000 oysters when they are small.
• Place the oyster spat in the tank, along with clean oyster shells for them to attach to. Make sure to provide them with adequate light, water flow, and oxygen.
• Maintain the water quality by regularly checking the pH, salinity, temperature, and oxygen levels and adjusting as needed. The water should have a pH of 7.5-8.5, salinity of 25-35ppt, temperature of 60-70F, and oxygen level of 4-5mg/L.
• Feed the oysters by adding a phytoplankton supplement to the water.
• Harvest the oysters after they have grown to a suitable size, which typically takes around 6-18 months depending on the species and the growing conditions.

It’s important to note that oysters are filter feeders and they consume phytoplankton and other small particles present in water, thus it’s recommended to grow them in natural water in your home, such as a marine aquarium or a pond with an appropriate salinity and temperature.

PRO TIP If at all possible, it’s best to grow oysters in their natural environment, and several states offer help for those getting started. You can obtain licenses/permission to grow your oysters in the ocean even if you don’t have access to the water from your home. This type of farming is far different than using your own water in a tank or pond on your inland property.

PRO TIP #2 For very small-scale oyster farming, here’s a very helpful, illustrated step-by-step guide to start your own oyster farm. You may want to skip the hatching part (my opinion) and buy the baby oysters (called “spat”).

If you’re looking for an in-depth, scholarly article that is more exhaustive and technical, THIS ARTICLE will be what you’re looking for. This is a good starting point to begin a serious oyster farm (especially in Canada or the Northeastern U.S.)

What Tools, Supplies and Equipment do I Need to Start Oyster Farming?

If you’re farming oysters in the ocean, you’ll need a small pickup truck, a small dock and a small work boat to get started, along with just a few other tools like cultivation bags and a rake.

Here’s a list of some of the tools and supplies you’ll need and what they’re used for:

• Oyster seeds or spat: These are the young oysters that you will grow. They can be obtained from a hatchery or from wild oysters that have been harvested.
• Floating cultivation trays or bags: These are used to grow the oysters. They can be made of plastic or mesh and are designed to be suspended in the water.

• A boat or other means of transport: To move equipment and oysters around on the water.
• Harvesting tools: such as tongs or rakes, to harvest the oysters when they are ready.
• Water quality testing equipment: such as a pH meter, a dissolved oxygen meter, or a turbidity meter, to measure various water quality parameters and ensure that the conditions are optimal for oyster growth.
• Drying racks: are used for storing oysters before packaging and shipping, or for allowing oysters to harden their shells prior to planting.
• A secure storage area: to keep your oysters and equipment safe from theft or damage.
• A water source: to get the water for oyster farming. It can be from the sea or from a nearby bay, estuary, or river.

Do Oysters Need to Stay Submerged or Can They Live Out of Water for a Time?

Oysters are aquatic animals that require a consistent water supply in order to survive. They are bivalve mollusks, which means they have two shells that protect their soft body and gills. Oysters filter water through their gills to extract oxygen and food, and they also use their gills to excrete waste. Therefore, if oysters are removed from water, they will quickly suffocate and die, due to the lack of oxygen, and also they need water to filter and consume food.

However, depending on the species, some oysters have the ability to close their shells and survive for short periods of time out of water, in a moist and shaded environment. But this is not a sustainable way of living for them. They will eventually die if they are not returned to an aquatic environment.

That said, many farmers raise oysters in a tidal environment where they are exposed for a short time. Over 24 hours is not good and they will likely die if out of water for longer periods than that.

It is important to place oyster reefs in inner-tidal areas that are below mean low tide.

Additionally, as oysters filter the water to extract food, it is important to consider the quality of the water since oysters can suffer when the water has low oxygen levels or is polluted.

PRO TIP – When researching methods on how to grow oysters, it’s important to note that there are several very different methods, and it’ll be necessary to choose one and stick with it. Methods range from placing mesh bags on the sea floor and allowing the tide to advance and retreat over them, to scattering them on a mud flat or beach (bottom culturing), to containing them in floating cages.

Can I Raise Oysters in a Fish Tank?

Yes, it is possible to raise oysters in an aquarium. However, it is important to note that oysters are filter feeders and require a steady supply of phytoplankton or other microorganisms on which to feed. Therefore, the aquarium would need to be set up with equipment and conditions that can support the growth of these organisms, such as a protein skimmer, strong lighting, and proper water flow.

Additionally, the aquarium would need to be large enough to accommodate the oysters as they grow, and you would need to be able to provide a suitable environment for them. This can include things like temperature control and keeping the water conditions stable.

Generally, a 20-gallon aquarium can handle 20 adult oysters, but more water per oyster is best.

PRO TIP Most oysters grown in an indoor aquarium are grown for their pearl potential. Because it takes so long to culture an oyster from spat (baby) to adult (ready to eat), it’s best to grow them in a natural, ocean environment where nature provides all the nutrients and water conditions necessary for healthy oysters.

What Do Oysters Eat?

Oysters are filter feeders, which means they filter small particles, such as phytoplankton, out of the water for food. In their natural habitat, oysters feed on a variety of microorganisms, including algae, diatoms, and zooplankton.

If you’re considering raising your own oysters, this is good news. You’ll never need to buy oyster feed.

In aquaculture, oysters typically feed on a diet of microalgae, such as phytoplankton, that is rich in protein and essential fatty acids. This microalgae diet is most often available naturally in the ocean environment but may be cultured if you’re raising oysters in a closed aquaculture system.

It is important to note that oysters, like all bivalves, also filter water for suspended particles, sediment, and nutrients and keep their habitat clean and healthy.

Oysters can help improve water quality by removing suspended particles and excess nutrients, which can reduce the growth of harmful microorganisms and improve overall water clarity.

Water Quality and Temperature for Oysters

As mentioned earlier, water quality is a crucial factor in raising oysters, as it can have a significant impact on their health and growth. Some key aspects of water quality that are important for oysters include:

• Temperature: Oysters prefer cooler water temperatures, and extreme heat can cause stress and lead to death. The ideal temperature range for oysters is between 10-20°C.
• Salinity: Oysters need a specific range of salinity to survive, which is typically between 20-35 parts per thousand (ppt). Variations in salinity can cause stress and affect the growth and survival of oysters.
• Dissolved oxygen: Oysters need oxygen to survive, and levels must be above 5 mg/L. Low dissolved oxygen can cause stress and lead to death.
• pH: Oysters prefer a pH range of 7.5-8.5. Extreme pH levels can impact the oyster’s ability to calcify its shell and can lead to death.
• Water flow: Oysters need a steady flow of water to filter feed and remove pollutants. Low water flow can lead to poor growth and survival.
• Pollutants: Oysters are sensitive to pollutants such as heavy metals, pesticides, and certain bacteria. These pollutants can cause stress and lead to death.
• Bacterial: Oysters are filter feeders and they are extremely sensitive to bacteria. This can lead to mortality and diseases in oysters.

Overall, it’s important to maintain water quality within the appropriate ranges to ensure healthy growth and survival of oysters.

Do Oysters Pollute or Clean the Water?

Actually, oysters do quite the opposite of polluting. Oysters clean water by filtering water through their gills to extract food. In the process of filtering the water, oysters also remove pollutants, such as excess nitrogen and phosphorus, which can contribute to algal blooms and other water quality issues. Oysters can filter an impressive amount of water for their size, with an adult oyster able to filter up to 50 – 60 gallons (189 liters) of water per day.

Oyster reefs or beds also provide other important ecological services such as shoreline stabilization, habitat provision for other organisms, and also recreational areas.

Oyster reefs also can be used as natural infrastructure, they can act as a barrier against coastal erosion caused by wave energy and storm surge. This is one of the reasons oyster reefs were historically common in estuaries and coastal areas.

It’s also important to keep in mind that oyster reefs can’t solve all water quality problems, and other measures, such as reducing pollution and managing nutrient inputs, should also be implemented in conjunction with oyster restoration.

In some parts of the country, local and state governments are actually paying citizens to grow oysters under their docks for the sole purpose of cleaning the water.

Many owners of coastal water homes or cottages can attest to cleaner water and better fishing once oysters are introduced into the aquatic environment.

An oyster and clam opening tool like this can make your entire oyster-raising experience easier – especially once you get to the very end – the kitchen table!

How Long Does it Take to Farm Oysters?

The time it takes to raise an oyster can vary depending on a few factors, such as the species of oyster, the growing conditions, and the size of the spat (baby oysters) at the start of the cultivation process, but for most oyster species, it can take between 6 to 18 months to raise an oyster to a marketable size. Oysters can grow up to 20 centimeters (8 inches) wide. However, most types of oysters average around 3 to 5 inches in length.

This time frame can be shortened or lengthened depending on the species, some species of oysters are faster growing while others are slower.

In the case of the Pacific oyster and European flat oyster, it can take around 1-2 years to reach a marketable size if they are farmed.

Farmed oysters are typically faster-growing than wild oysters which can take 3 years or longer to get to marketable size.

However, the growing conditions can affect the time frame as well, oysters grown in optimal conditions such as ample sunlight, adequate water flow, and high-quality water with the appropriate temperature, salinity, and oxygen levels, will reach marketable size faster than oysters grown in suboptimal conditions.

It’s also worth noting that oyster farmers may choose to harvest oysters at different sizes depending on market demand and personal preferences, hence the size and time for harvest are not fixed.

Will Oysters Reproduce?

Oysters reproduce sexually. They release sperm and eggs into the water, where fertilization occurs. The resulting larvae then settle onto a suitable substrate and grow into adult oysters.

Some oysters, like the Pacific oyster, are also capable of reproducing asexually by forming new individuals from fragments of the adult.

Because the process of reproduction is a bit random in the wild, it’s best to rely on a steady source of reliable spat. New, young oysters are relatively easy to source and quite inexpensive.

Where Can I Get Young Oysters to Grow?

Fortunately, there are many shellfish hatcheries or specialized producers that can provide you with spat (baby oysters) to begin the growing process. This is the recommended method of growing oysters rather than working through the oyster spawning process.

It’s possible to allow oysters to reproduce naturally, but it’s not the best method because of the unreliable nature of spawning variables like environmental conditions, weather, water issues and more.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Oysters

Raising oysters for your homestead will probably be more challenging than raising fish in an aquaculture environment, unless you have easy and direct access to salinated water (like a home with a property that borders an ocean or brackish creek, etc.)

Raising oysters in an aquarium is about your only other option, but since it takes 2 years for oysters to reach eating size, an aquarium can be a time-consuming and expensive way to get a small amount of oyster meat.

If you live near the ocean (but not on it), you can contact your local fisheries authority to find out what programs are available to help you access an appropriate area and other needed resources for your small-scale oyster farm.

References:

1. https://www.hobbyfarms.com/oysters-farming/
2. https://www2.gnb.ca/content/dam/gnb/Departments/10/pdf/Publications/Aqu/oyster.pdf
3. https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Oysters
4. https://sciencing.com/isopod-life-cycle-12206033.html

What is the Best Month to go Ice Fishing in Canada and the Northern U.S.?

Generally speaking, the best month to go ice fishing is February when the ice is usually at its thickest in most of Canada and the Northern U.S. States. Perch and Walleye are the most active during the coldest months, and weather conditions tend to be a bit more stable than early or late in the season, so fishing is the most pleasant.

The best month to go ice fishing in Canada and the northern United States can vary depending on the specific location and the species of fish you are targeting.

In general, ice fishing season begins in late November or early December, when the water has frozen over and the ice is thick enough to support the weight of a person and their gear.

The ice fishing season typically lasts until March or April, when the ice begins to thaw and the lakes and rivers become unsafe for ice fishing.

The best time to go ice fishing will depend on the species of fish you are targeting, as different fish have different patterns of behavior and feeding habits.

Some species, such as perch and walleye, tend to be more active in the colder months of the year, while others, such as pike and lake trout, may be more active in the warmer months.

In terms of the specific month, it is often best to go ice fishing in late January or February, when the ice is at its thickest and the fish (at least Walleye and Perch) are typically more active. These months also tend to have more stable weather conditions, which can make for more pleasant and comfortable ice fishing conditions.

Ultimately, the best month to go ice fishing in Canada and the northern United States will depend on a variety of factors, including the specific location, the species of fish you are targeting, and the weather conditions.

It is always a good idea to check the local fishing regulations and to be cautious when venturing onto the ice, as conditions can vary widely and can change rapidly.

What is the Best Time of Day for Ice Fishing?

The best time of day for ice fishing generally, is early to late morning, and early to late evening, but that will vary depending on the target fish species.

The best time of day to go ice fishing can vary depending on a number of factors, including the species of fish you are targeting, the time of year, and the weather conditions.

In general, however, early morning and late afternoon are often considered the best times to go ice fishing, as many popular species of fish tend to be more active during these times.

This is because the cooler water temperatures and lower light levels can make the fish more sluggish and less likely to feed during the middle of the day. A few exceptions to this general rule may be sunfish and pike which are often best caught during mid-day.

It is also important to consider the weather conditions when planning your ice fishing trip. On sunny days, the surface of the ice can become much warmer, which can make the water underneath less oxygenated and less conducive to supporting a healthy fish population.

On the other hand, cold and overcast days can be ideal for ice fishing, as the water is likely to be cooler and more oxygenated, and the fish may be more active.

Overall, the best time of day to go ice fishing is largely a matter of personal preference and will depend on the specific conditions you are facing. Often, the weather for the day (specifically, the wind conditions) are calmer very early or late in the day, so these are often target times for many anglers.

Some anglers prefer to fish early in the morning when the lake is still and the fish are just starting to become active, while others prefer the late afternoon when the fish are more likely to be feeding.

Ultimately, the best time to go ice fishing is the time that is most convenient and comfortable for you, as long as you take into account the factors that can impact the success of your trip.

One last thing to consider is the “best” time as it relates to the comfort and convenience for the angler. Often fish species will bite as well at 7 am as they do at 10:30 am. For many anglers (like me) who appreciate their beauty rest, 10:30 is a far better time that I’m likely to appreciate and enjoy more than the early hours and lack of sleep.

What’s the Best Time to go Ice Fishing for Trout?

Trout can be caught almost any time through ice in the winter months when the lakes are frozen. However, the best time for ice fishing for trout can vary depending on the location and the specific species of trout, but generally, morning and evening hours are best during Winter just as they are in the other seasons.

Also, the best time for ice fishing for trout is when the water is cold and the fish are active. This can vary even day to day depending on the specific species of trout. Some species are more active in cold water than others.

It’s also important to consider the weather and ice conditions when ice fishing for trout. The best conditions for ice fishing are generally when the weather is cold and clear, with a solid ice cover on the lake or river.

The thickness of the ice should also be considered, as it should be thick enough to support the weight of the angler and any equipment.

What’s the Best Time to go Ice Fishing for Walleye (and where)?

Like with trout, the best time to go ice fishing for walleye can vary depending on the location and the specific conditions, but fishing for Walleye during the hour before sunset and up to 3 hours after sunset are often the most productive hours. The hour before sunrise is also at the top of the list of favorite times for veteran walleye anglers.

One of the most important factors to consider is the time of day. Walleye are often more active at dawn and dusk, so these times can be good for ice fishing.

In addition, walleye tend to be more active when the water is colder, so targeting them during the colder months of the winter can be more productive.

It’s never a bad idea to consider ice conditions when ice fishing for walleye. The best conditions are generally when the weather is cold and clear, but preferably, not snowing heavily or extremely windy and unsettled.

The thickness of the ice should also be considered, as it should be thick enough to support the weight of the angler and any equipment.

In terms of location (while we’re talking about walleye fishing), walleye can often be found in areas with structure, such as drop-offs, points, and weed beds, as well as areas where water sources (like streams or rivers) enter the lake.

These areas can provide cover and ambush points for the fish, and can be good places to focus your efforts, but be careful in areas where rivers enter a lake since ice thickness can decrease rapidly as you approach the point of water entry into the lake.

If I had to sum it up, I would say that targeting the fish during the colder months of the winter, at dawn and dusk, and in areas with structure can increase your chances of success.

What’s the Best Time to Go Ice Fishing for Crappie (and where)?

Crappie are often more active during the early morning and late afternoon hours, so these times can be good for ice fishing. In addition, crappie tend to be more active when the water is colder, so targeting them during the colder months of the winter can be more productive.

It’s also important to consider the weather and ice conditions when ice fishing for crappie. The best conditions are generally when the weather is cold and clear, with a solid ice cover on the lake or river. The thickness of the ice should also be considered, as it should be thick enough to support the weight of the angler and any equipment.

In terms of location, crappie can often be found in areas with structure, such as drop-offs, points, and weed beds. These areas can provide cover and ambush points for the fish, and can be good places to focus your efforts.

Overall, the best time of day to go ice fishing for crappie is during the early morning and late afternoon hours, when the fish are most active. In addition, targeting the fish during the colder months of the winter and in areas with structure can increase your chances of success.

What’s the Best Time to Go Ice Fishing for Pike (and where)?

Basically, pike are most active and can be more easily caught during the colder Winter months when the water is ice-covered (as opposed to very early Winter or as ice is thawing). Most often, mid-day pike fishing is as good or better than any other time, so it’s best to start no earlier than 9 am and think of finishing around 3 pm.

Cold weather is good because pike are cold-water fish, and they are sluggish in warmer water. In the northern parts of their range, pike can often be caught through the ice from late November to early April.

Often, the biggest pike of the year are pulled through the ice and usually caught on some of the colder days of the entire Winter season.

In the southern parts of their range, the ice fishing season may be shorter, lasting from late December to early March. It’s important to note that the thickness of the ice should be at least 4 inches before venturing out on the ice.

During winter months on a frozen lake, it’s important to understand that pike can be caught in two very different locations, though both may not be equally effective on the same lake at the same time.

In general, some pike will be caught in 5 or 6 feet of water near the shore, while other pike will go deep and suspend near baitfish or submerged mid-lake structures. It’s really a matter of finding out where they are on your lake on the day you’re fishing!

What’s the Best Time to Go Ice Fishing for Perch (and where)?

Perch are a popular target for ice fishermen because they are generally abundant and can be caught in large numbers. In the northern parts of their range, perch can often be caught through the ice from late November to early April. In the southern parts of their range, the ice fishing season may be shorter, lasting from late December to early March.

As with most fish species, the best time to go ice fishing for perch depends on the location and the specific body of water being fished. In general, perch are most active and can be more easily caught during the colder months when the ice is the thickest.

This is because perch are cold-water fish, and they are more sluggish in warmer water.

Perch can often be found in shallow, weedy areas near drop-offs or in the vicinity of underwater structures such as rocks or sunken logs. They are known to move around in search of food, so it may be necessary to drill several holes to find where the perch are actively feeding.

Perch will typically bite on a variety of baits, including minnows, worms, and small jigs. When ice fishing for perch, it’s a good idea to use a light line and small hooks to allow the bait to move freely and to make it more difficult for the perch to steal the bait without getting hooked.

What’s the Best Time to Go Ice Fishing for Catfish (and where)?

While catfish can be most easily caught in the late evening and through the night in warm water environments (ie. Summer in Alabama), catfish are more active from late morning to early evening under the ice in Northern environments.

Catfish are a popular target for ice fishermen because they are generally abundant and can be caught in a wide variety of lakes and rivers. In order to catch catfish through the ice, it’s important to know where to find them and to use the right techniques and equipment.

Catfish tend to be found in deeper water and near structures, such as sunken logs or rocks. They can be caught using a variety of baits, including worms, minnows, and prepared stink baits.

When ice fishing for catfish, it’s a good idea to use a heavy line and a large hook to help hold the bottom and to prevent the catfish from stealing the bait. It’s also a good idea to use a heavier rod and reel to help handle the weight and strength of the catfish.

What’s the Best Time to Go Ice Fishing for Sunfish?

In the northern parts of their range, sunfish can often be caught through the ice from late November to early April. In the southern parts of their range, the ice fishing season may be shorter, lasting from late December to early March. Midday is typically the best time to fish on the ice for sunfish.

During the mid-winter, when the water is at its coldest, sunfish may be more active during the warmer parts of the day, such as late morning and early afternoon. This is when the sun is at its highest and the ice is likely to be at its thinnest, which can help to warm the water and stimulate the sunfish’s metabolism.

However, it’s important to note that sunfish can be caught at any time of day, and it’s often a good idea to try different times and techniques to see what works best. It’s also a good idea to pay attention to the weather and to fish when the conditions are most favorable.

For example, sunny days may be more productive than cloudy days, as the sun can help to warm the water and make the sunfish more active.

Sunfish are a fun species to fish because they tend to be closer to shore in shallower water, they’re easy to catch, they’re really colorful and they’re good to eat.

Sunfish can often be found in shallow, weedy areas near drop-offs or in the vicinity of underwater structures such as rocks or sunken logs. They are known to move around in search of food, so it may be necessary to drill several holes to find where the sunfish are actively feeding.

Sunfish will typically bite on a variety of small baits, including small jigs, worms, and minnows. When ice fishing for sunfish, it’s a good idea to use a light line and small hooks to allow the bait to move freely and to make it more difficult for the sunfish to steal the bait without getting hooked.

Sunfish are known to move around in search of food, so they may not necessarily “hide” in one specific place during the winter. However, they tend to be more sluggish in colder water and may be more likely to be found in deeper, slower-moving areas where they can conserve energy, or near moving water like a brook or creek that enters a lake.

Sunfish can often be found near underwater structures such as rocks or sunken logs, as well as in shallow, weedy areas near drop-offs.

It may also be helpful to use a fish finder or other electronics to locate schools of sunfish under the ice.

Can I Ice Fish at Night?

Yes, it is possible to go ice fishing at night. Many ice fishermen choose to fish at night because the colder temperatures can make the fish more active, and there may be less competition from other anglers. Some species of fish are more easily caught at night such as Walleye and Catfish.

However, it’s important to be prepared and to take safety precautions when ice fishing at night.

Here are a few tips for ice fishing at night:

• Wear warm clothing and bring extra layers in case it gets colder than expected.
• Bring a flashlight or headlamp to help see what you’re doing and to make it easier to move around on the ice.
• Use a bucket or portable chair to sit on, rather than standing on the ice for long periods of time.
• Check the thickness of the ice before venturing out, and be aware of any areas that may be thin or unstable.
• Bring a first aid kit and a charged cell phone in case of emergencies.
• Consider fishing with a partner for added safety.
• Use caution when drilling holes and setting up your gear, as it can be more difficult to see what you’re doing at night.
• Pay attention to the weather and be prepared for any changes that may occur.
• By following these tips, you can have a safe and enjoyable night of ice fishing.

Ice fishing can be an enjoyable experience even at night. Specialized headlamps and underwater lights are available to help you spot fish while they are hunting for food.

Be sure to wear reflective clothing and have a trusted buddy accompany you if possible, as these can improve your visibility on the ice should an emergency occur after dark.

Additionally, check with local regulations before heading out at night as some waterways may be closed to angling activity during certain hours or times of the year.

Lastly, bring along any necessary safety equipment such as life vests, rescue whistles, and ice picks in order to ensure maximum safety when ice fishing after sunset.

When Can I Go Ice Fishing In Ontario?

The legal ice fishing season in Ontario, Canada varies depending on the specific body of water being fished, and the species of fish being angled. In general, ice fishing is permitted anytime there is ice, and the season runs from around January 1 to March 31, although some exceptions may apply.

Certain water bodies may be closed seasonally or have special regulations in place that restrict ice fishing during certain times of day or night but those would be very rare exceptions.

It’s important to check with the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry (MNRF) or a local fishing guide for the most up-to-date information on the ice fishing season and any regulations that may be in place.

When Can I Go Ice Fishing in Canada?

Ice fishing season in Canada is dependent mostly on whether there is ice or not. Provincial fishing regulations are the actual guidelines for when you can fish for any species in a particular province, so there are no national regulations for fishing. If the regulations for the province in which you’re fishing indicate that a species is in season and there is ice on the lake, then you can go ice fishing!

The best way to find out if a species is open or closed to angling is to consult each individual province’s fishing regulations guide.

NOTE: Below is a set of links that will direct you to each province’s fishing regulation guide. Just click on the province in which you’d like to fish:

• Alberta
• British Columbia
• Manitoba
• New Brunswick
• Newfoundland & Labrador
• Northwest Territories
• Nova Scotia
• Nunavut
• Ontario
• Prince Edward Island
• Quebec
• Saskatchewan
• Yukon

Determining When is the Best Time to Ice Fish – Summary

The exact timing of your ice fishing outing is largely determined by a number of factors such as:

• Is the fish in season?
• Is the ice thick enough?
• Will the weather conditions allow me to be safe and comfortable?
• Are the fish active and feeding during the time I’d like to go?

Aside from those factors, the best time, in summary, would be during the coldest months of the season, and typically early/mid-morning to about early-afternoon for most species on most lakes while species like Walleye and Catfish are best caught before sunrise or after sunset.

Raising clams at home is a form of aquaculture, which is the farming of aquatic organisms such as fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. There are many types of clams, but the exact number depends on how they are classified. Some estimates put the number of different species of clams at around 300-400.

More and more people are starting to understand the benefits of raising clams, and beyond the obvious reason of adding to the sustainability of your own household’s food supply, there are a number of other compelling reasons to culture and grow your own clams.

By raising your own clams, you’ll assure that you’re getting the best quality if you control as many factors as you can. The clams will always offer a fresher product than purchasing them anywhere else, and you can even grow them for profit if they are well-managed.

Other advantages of raising clams include water cleaning/filtration provided by the clams and the fact that (unlike all other forms of aquaculture) clams require no food supply provided by the farmer.

Methods of Growing Clams

The topic of how to raise clams using which methods can be very in-depth and extensive, but to simplify as much as possible, there are basically 4 methods of growing clams. The methods are Wild Harvesting, Aquaculture, Bags or cages, and the Benthic Method.

Wild harvest: This is the traditional method of collecting clams from natural beds in the wild. This method is sustainable if the population is managed properly but can be limited by the availability of clams in the wild.

The process of wild harvest typically begins with identifying a healthy population of clam beds. This location is typically characterized by sandy or muddy bottoms and relatively low wave action. The clammers use rakes or dredges to collect the clams from the ocean floor.

Rakes are typically used to collect clams from the surface of the ocean floor, while dredges are used to collect clams from deeper areas.

Wild harvest is considered a sustainable method of harvesting clams if the population is managed properly. The problem is, the availability of clams in the wild can be limited, and over-harvesting can lead to a decline in the population.

Additionally, wild harvest can also be subject to natural events such as storms, high waves, and pollution, which can affect the availability and quality of the clams.

Aquaculture: This is the method of farming clams in controlled conditions, such as in tanks, ponds or in the ocean. Clams are typically grown in culture systems where they are suspended in the water column and provided with food, oxygen, and other necessary conditions to grow.

The process of aquaculture starts with the selection of a suitable species of clam for cultivation. Remember, there are a lot of species of clams! The choice of clam can vary depending on the location, water conditions, and market demand.

Next, the clams are obtained, either through hatcheries or by collecting them from wild populations. The clams are then placed in tanks or ponds that are specifically designed for the cultivation of clams.

The water in the tanks or ponds is carefully controlled to provide the best conditions for the clams to grow. This includes maintaining the right temperature, salt content, and pH levels, as well as providing sufficient oxygen and food for the clams. The clams are typically fed a diet of phytoplankton, which is their natural food source.

The clams are then left to grow until they reach a suitable size for harvest. This can take anywhere from several months to a few years, depending on the species of clam and the growing conditions.

Aquaculture is considered a sustainable method of growing clams because it allows for the cultivation of clams in areas where wild harvest is not possible or sustainable.

Additionally, it also allows for the cultivation of clams in a controlled environment, which can lead to a higher survival rate and a more consistent supply of clams.

However, aquaculture can also be subject to disease and parasites, which can negatively impact the growth and survival of the clams.

Overall, clam aquaculture is a complex process that requires knowledge of the biology, physiology and technology of the clam species to be grown, as well as knowledge of water chemistry, water flow, and other environmental parameters.

If clams are grown in the ocean, many controllable and variable factors related to aquaculture will not have to be directly addressed.

Bags or cages method: This method consists of growing clams in net bags or cages that are suspended in the water column, this method is similar to aquaculture but the clams are not in contact with the sediment.

Young clams (about 4 mm minimum) are placed in bags or cages that are specifically designed for the cultivation of clams.

The bags or cages are suspended in the water column, and it’s typically in a location that provides the optimal water conditions for the clams to grow. The clams can feed continuously (on phytoplankton) while submerged and protected in the bags or cages.

But, the suspended bags or cages method can be subject to natural events like storms, high waves, and pollution. This can affect the survival and growth of the clams. It is important to monitor the clams and the water conditions to ensure the survival and growth of the clams.

Floating cages method: This method involves cages full of clams that float at surface level. This method promotes faster growth, provides a bit more dissolved oxygen, and keeps the clams away from many bottom-dwelling predators like crabs, otters, and even starfish which cannot easily access suspended clams.

The use of floating cages to raise clams has several advantages over traditional aquaculture methods such as benthic or suspended bags method. The floating cages can be moved to different locations to take advantage of seasonal changes in water conditions, and can also be moved to protect the clams from storms or other adverse conditions.

In addition, floating cages can also be used in deeper waters, where benthic or suspended bags methods are not practical or even possible.

However, floating cages are also subject to the same challenges as other aquaculture methods, such as disease and parasites, which can negatively impact the growth and survival of the clams.

Also, floating cages are more expensive to build and maintain than other aquaculture methods. While they are certainly easier to access and manage than any other method, they are vulnerable to damage by wave action in rough waters.

Benthic Method: This method of clam farming involves the cultivation of clams on the ocean floor and is similar to wild harvest but the clams are grown in a controlled environment.

The process begins with selecting a suitable location for the clam beds, typically in areas with a sandy or muddy bottom and relatively low wave action. The area is prepared by removing any debris, and the bottom is smoothed to create a suitable substrate for the clams.

Next, the clams are introduced to the area, typically as juvenile or “seed” clams. These clams can be obtained from hatcheries or from wild populations. The clams are placed on the ocean floor in close proximity to one another and are then left to grow, but they are not fed. The clams filter the water and extract the plankton, which is their natural food.

The benthic method of growing clams is considered a sustainable method, because the clams are grown in a natural environment and do not require the use of additional feed or chemicals. This method also allows growth in areas where wild harvest is not possible or is not sustainable, and it can also increase the population of clams in an area, which can help to maintain the balance of the aquatic ecosystem.

However, the benthic method can also be subject to natural events such as storms, high waves, and pollution, and that can affect the survival and growth of the clams. It is important to monitor the clams and the water conditions to ensure the survival and growth of the clams.

This method leaves the clams as vulnerable as they would be in the wild.

Each method has its pros and cons, but after researching extensively, it seems like a floating or suspended cage or bag is a bit easier since it is not affected much by tidal movements and it allows the oysters to remain close to the surface where they’ll have the most dissolved oxygen.

What Are the Main Differences Between Oysters and Clams?

Clams and Oysters differ in many ways including their habitat, reproductive process, and appearance. Unlike oysters which like to cling to rocks and make their own reefs in the wild, clams prefer to bury themselves in the sand and remain covered most of the time. Because of this, the exfoliating action of the sand on the clam’s shell makes it smoother and thinner than the tough and jagged oyster shell.

Appearance: Clams typically have a round or oval shape, while oysters have a flatter, elongated shape. Clams also tend to be smaller than oysters, and they have two equal-sized shells, while oysters have a large, flat bottom shell and a smaller, curved top shell.

Habitat: Clams are usually found in sandy or muddy bottoms, while oysters are typically found on rocks or other hard surfaces.

Feeding: Clams are filter feeders and use their gills to filter water and extract food particles, while oysters are filter and deposit feeders, they filter water to extract food particles and also feed on the organic matter that falls on the bottom.

Reproduction: Clams are typically hermaphrodites and can change their sex during their lifetime, while oysters are typically monoecious, meaning that they have both male and female reproductive organs.

Harvesting: Clams are typically harvested using rakes or dredges, while oysters are typically harvested by hand or by using tongs.

Culinary use: Clams and oysters are both consumed as seafood and are a popular delicacy, but they are typically prepared differently and have slightly different flavors. Clams are usually steamed, fried or used in a variety of dishes such as chowder, pasta, and sushi, while oysters are usually served raw, on the half shell, or grilled.

Economic value: Clams and oysters are both valuable resources, but oysters are considered a more sought after species in terms of commercial value, they are more expensive, and have a wider variety of culinary use.

Can I Raise Clams at Home?

One can certainly raise clams in a backyard aquaculture environment, with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. However, growing clams outside of the ocean does require meticulous monitoring of water conditions and attention to detail, along with some very specific knowledge and training.

While clams can be raised in a freshwater pond, for example, they tend to clean the water of all algae which can make the water look nice and clear, but it will make the water too nutrient-poor to support much (if any) other life like fish and plankton.

Here are some basic steps you’ll need to take in order to create your own backyard clam farm, and we’ll expand on the details later in this article.

• Choose a suitable species: Different species of clams have different requirements, so it is important to research and choose a species that is suitable for your pond or tank conditions. Squamosa clams are reputed to be one of the easiest species to grow and maintain.
• Create a suitable environment: Clams require a substrate of sand or gravel and a source of light. They also need appropriate water conditions, such as a salinity level between 1.020 and 1.025, and pH between 7.5-8.5.
• Obtain clam seeds or spat: You can obtain clam seeds or spat from a hatchery or a supplier, or collect them from the wild.
• Plant clam seeds or spat: Plant the clam seeds or spat in the substrate.
• Feed the clams: Clams need to be fed a diet of phytoplankton or other small aquatic organisms.
• Monitor water quality: Regularly check and monitor water quality, including nitrate and phosphate levels, and perform regular water changes as needed.
• Harvest the clams: Once the clams have reached a suitable size, you can harvest them. A good size to harvest is around 3″ – 5″ which can be obtained after growing for 2-4 years.

Keep in mind that clam cultivation is a long-term process and clam growth is slow, so it’s important to be patient and persistent.

PRO TIP If at all possible, it’s best to grow clams in their natural environment, and several states offer help for those getting started with shellfish farming. You can obtain licenses/permission to grow your clams in the ocean even if you don’t have access to the water from your home. This type of farming is far different than using your own water in a tank or pond on your inland property.

PRO TIP #2 For very small-scale clam farming or keeping clams in an aquarium, here’s a very helpful, illustrated step-by-step guide to start your own clam farm.

What Tools, Supplies and Equipment do I Need to Start Clam Farming in a Pond?

For growing clams in a pond or large tank, it will be necessary to have a number of important supplies and equipment. Some important items would be a water testing kit, aeration system, lighting, food, harvesting equipment and protective clothing.

Here’s a brief outline of what you’ll need:

• A suitable area: You will need a pond or tank that is large enough to accommodate the number of clams you plan to raise. The pond or tank should be located in a shaded area, and should have a substrate of sand or gravel.

• Water testing kit: You will need a water testing kit to monitor water quality, including pH, salinity, and nitrate and phosphate levels.

• Aeration system: Clams need a steady supply of oxygen to survive, so you will need an aeration system to keep the water oxygenated.

• Lighting: Some species of clams require a source of light, so you will need to provide appropriate lighting for the species you are raising.

• Feed: Clams need to be fed a diet of phytoplankton or other small aquatic organisms. You can purchase this type of feed from a supplier, or culture it yourself.

• Harvesting equipment: You will need equipment to harvest the clams, such as a rake or dredge.

• Protective clothing: When handling clams, you should wear gloves and boots to protect yourself from cuts and punctures.

• Clam seeds or spat: You will need to obtain clam seeds or spat to start your clam farm. This can be obtained from a hatchery, or collected from the wild.

• Monitoring equipment: You may need some monitoring equipment like a thermometer, dissolved oxygen, pH, salinity, and turbidity meter to keep track of the environmental conditions for the clams.

Do Clams Need to Stay Submerged or Can They Live Out of Water for a Time?

Clams are aquatic animals that require a consistent water supply in order to survive. They are bivalve mollusks, which means they have two shells that protect their soft body and gills. Clams filter water through their gills to extract oxygen and food, and they also use their gills to excrete waste. As long as a clam shell is not damaged, it can survive for days out of water, if the shell is at least kept moist, it can survive for as long as 2 weeks outside of water.

However, depending on the species, some oysters have the ability to close their shells and survive for short periods of time out of water, in a moist and shaded environment. But this is not a sustainable way of living for them. They will eventually die if they are not returned to an aquatic environment.

According to Canadian environmental charity Eco-Spark, clams have been known to live out of water for years, though my better judgment tells me they would die from lack of food and oxygen since they can’t eat or breathe out of water.

I’m not a scientist so I can’t really say for sure!

Can I Raise Clams in an Aquarium?

It is possible to raise clams in an aquarium. However, it is important to note that clams are filter feeders. Because of this, they require a steady supply of phytoplankton or other microorganisms on which to feed. That means the aquarium would need to be set up with equipment and conditions that can support the growth of these organisms, such as a protein skimmer, strong lighting, and proper water flow.

To grow clams in an aquarium, you will need to provide them with a suitable environment that mimics their natural habitat. This includes a substrate of sand or gravel, a source of light, and appropriate water conditions, such as a salinity level between 1.020 and 1.025.

The suggested bottom material of your tank would be 4-6 inches of mostly sand, mixed with some fine gravel.

You will also need to maintain good water quality by performing regular water changes and monitoring levels of nitrates and phosphates. What’s more, you will need to feed the clams a diet of phytoplankton or other small aquatic organisms.

It’s crucial that the aquarium be large enough to accommodate the clams as they grow.

By adding other creatures like fish and crabs, you’ll help the clam. Other organisms create waste that clams (apparently) love to eat. You can supplement a clam’s diet with sinking algae wafers available at pet stores.

Generally, a 10 to 30-gallon aquarium can handle 1 or 2 healthy adult oysters, assuming there are other fish and crabs, etc. in your tank.

PRO TIP Clams grown in a freshwater aquarium can certainly thrive and grow, but because they’ll need so much attention and space, it may not be the best place to grow clams for food.

PRO TIP #2 A dead clam releases ammonia which can have a devastating effect on other creatures living in your tank. It’s tough to find clams most of the time since they bury themselves, so finding a dead one can be a real challenge. Clams will usually respond to a touch of a finger by moving or closing, so if there is no response over time, you may be able to assume a clam is dead.

What Do Clams Eat?

Clams are filter feeders, which means they filter small particles, such as phytoplankton, out of the water for food. In their natural habitat, oysters feed on a variety of microorganisms, including algae, diatoms, and zooplankton.

If you’re considering raising your own clams, this is good news. You’ll never need to buy clam feed unless you are growing clams in an aquarium.

In aquaculture, clams typically feed on a diet of microalgae, such as phytoplankton, that is rich in protein and essential fatty acids. This microalgae diet is most often available naturally in the ocean environment but may be cultured if you’re raising clams in a closed aquaculture system.

It is important to note that clams, like all bivalves, also filter water for suspended particles, sediment, and nutrients and keep their habitat clean and healthy.

Clams can help improve water quality by removing suspended particles and excess nutrients, which can reduce the growth of harmful microorganisms and improve overall water clarity.

Water Quality and Temperature for Clams

Clams prefer cold, clean, and well-oxygenated water. The ideal temperature range for most clams is between 35-55°F (1.7-12.8°C). They also require a certain level of salinity, typically between 20-30 parts per thousand (ppt). Clams also require a clean environment, free of pollution and excessive sediment.

Water temperature: Clams prefer cold water, with an ideal temperature range between 35-55°F (1.7-12.8°C). They can tolerate slightly warmer temperatures, but prolonged exposure to temperatures above 60°F (15.6°C) can lead to stress and death.

Salinity: Clams require a certain level of salinity, typically between 20-30 parts per thousand (ppt). They can tolerate a range of salinities, but optimal growth occurs at a salinity of around 25 ppt.

Water quality: Clams require clean and well-oxygenated water to survive. They are sensitive to pollution and excessive sediment, and water with high levels of pollutants can lead to stress and death.

Dissolved oxygen: Clams require a certain level of dissolved oxygen in the water. The optimal dissolved oxygen level is between 5-9 mg/L, and they may not survive in water with dissolved oxygen levels below 3 mg/L.

pH: Clams require a neutral pH level of 7.0, and they may not survive in water with a pH level above 8.5 or below 6.5.

Light: Clams require minimal light, and exposure to direct sunlight or bright light can cause stress and death.

Nutrients: Clams require a certain level of nutrients in the water, including nitrates, phosphates, and other trace elements. They also require a source of food, such as phytoplankton, to survive.

Do Clams Pollute or Clean the Water?

Clams are filter feeders and they can help to clean the water by removing particles such as phytoplankton, algae, and other small organisms. They feed by filtering water through their gills, which trap food particles. As a result, the water that passes through a clam bed can be cleaner than the water in the surrounding area.

As mentioned earlier, clams are filter feeders, which means they filter water through their gills to capture and consume food particles.

They also remove various pollutants and suspended particles, such as algae, bacteria, sediment, and heavy metals. This helps to improve water clarity and reduce the levels of pollutants in the water.

Clams also help to remove excess nitrogen from the water. Nitrogen is a key nutrient for plant and algae growth, but excessive levels can lead to eutrophication (excessive growth of aquatic plants and algae) and oxygen depletion.

Clams can remove nitrogen from the water through their excretion and decomposition of organic matter.

Clams also act as biological filters, helping to remove pollutants by breaking down organic matter and converting it into nutrients that can be used by other organisms.

Clams are considered an important part of the ecosystem. They help to maintain the balance of the aquatic food web. Clams are also considered an important indicator species, the presence or absence of clams can indicate the health of an ecosystem.

An oyster and clam opening tool like this can make your entire clam-raising experience easier – especially once you get to the very end – the kitchen table!

How Long Does it Take to Farm Clams?

The time it takes to raise a clam can vary depending on a few factors, such as the species of clam, the growing conditions, and the size of the spat (baby clams) at the start of the cultivation process, but for most clam species, it can take 2 – 5 years to grow to a marketable size.

Oysters, on the other hand, can be ready for market in 6 – 18 months and can grow up to 20 centimeters (8 inches) wide.

This time frame can be shortened or lengthened depending on the species, some species of clam are faster growing while others are slower.

For example, the Pacific razor clam, a species that is commonly harvested for food, can take between 2-3 years to reach a marketable size.

The Eastern softshell clam usually takes about 3-4 years to reach maturity and a marketable size, and the Hard clam can take from 2-5 years to reach maturity and a marketable size.

Other factors that can affect the growth rate of clams include water temperature, salinity, water quality, and the availability of food. Clams that are raised in ideal conditions and with proper management can grow faster and reach a marketable size more quickly.

It’s worth noting that the size considered as “marketable size” can also vary depending on the species, the region and the market.

Will Clams Reproduce?

Clams can reproduce in an aquaculture pond under the right conditions. The success of reproducing clams in an aquaculture pond depends on several factors, including water temperature, salinity, water quality, and the availability of food. These are the same factors that determine success in all other aspects of clam raising like growing time, maximum size, overall health, etc.

Aquaculture ponds are typically managed to provide ideal conditions for the clams, such as maintaining the right water temperature, salinity, and water quality, and providing a food source.

However, some clams might not reproduce in the aquaculture pond, as the conditions in the pond may not be suitable for reproduction. Some species can reproduce asexually and others are hermaphrodites, so they can reproduce without the need for a partner.

Reproduction in aquaculture ponds can also be enhanced by using selective breeding and by manipulating environmental factors such as water temperature, salinity, and light.

How Do Clams Reproduce?

Clams are typically dioecious, meaning they have separate sexes and produce both eggs and sperm. During spawning, clams release their eggs and sperm into the water column. The eggs and sperm then combine to form a free-swimming larva called a veliger. The veliger then settles and undergoes metamorphosis to form a juvenile clam.

This process can take place during certain times of the year, which depends on the species, and water conditions.

Some species of clams also reproduce asexually, through a process called fragmentation or by producing small clonal individuals called spat. This process is called bivalve reproduction, it’s a way of reproducing without the need for fertilization.

In addition, human activities such as pollution, overfishing, and habitat destruction can also have an impact on the reproduction of clams.

Because the process of reproduction is a bit random in the wild, it’s best to rely on a steady source of reliable spat. New, young clams are relatively easy to source and quite inexpensive.

Where Can I Get Young Clams to Grow?

Fortunately, there are a number of shellfish hatcheries or specialized producers that can provide you with spat (baby clams) to begin the growing process. This is the recommended method of growing clams rather than working through the clam spawning process.

It’s possible to allow clams to reproduce naturally, but it’s not the best method because of the unreliable nature of spawning variables like environmental conditions, weather, water quality and suitability issues, and more.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Clams

Raising clams for your homestead will probably be more challenging than raising fish in an aquaculture environment unless you have easy and direct access to salinated water (like a home with a property that borders an ocean or brackish creek, etc.)

Raising clams in a very well-managed pond or an aquarium are your only other choices, but since it takes up to 5 years for clams to reach an eating size, an aquarium can be a time-consuming and expensive way to get a small amount of clam meat.

If you live near the ocean (but not on it), you can contact your local fisheries authority to find out what programs are available to help you access an appropriate area and other needed resources for your small-scale clam farm.

References:

1. https://projects.sare.org/wp-content/uploads/960820presentation-7.pdf
2. https://pethelpful.com/fish-aquariums/Introduction-Keeping-Clams-In-Aquariums
3. https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-a-Live-Clam
4. https://www.ecospark.ca/clam

Raising Catfish in your own backyard has become an increasingly popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition if you’re looking to add to your homestead’s sustainability during any food crisis.

In a world where we see increasing food costs, decreasing natural food sources, and a decrease in food availability and variety, it’s encouraging to be able to provide your own high-quality protein on a predictable and reliable schedule despite food price increases and supply chain problems.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

Raising and growing catfish for food is a traditional and sustainable method of producing protein for a wide variety of cultures that have been practiced for centuries. Catfish are a type of freshwater fish that are relatively easy to care for and can be grown in a variety of environments, including ponds, tanks, and even swimming pools!

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming catfish at home in your own aquaculture environment that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

What Exactly is a Catfish?

Catfish are a diverse group of ray-finned fish found in freshwater environments around the world. There are more than 3,000 known species of catfish, which are known for their distinctive whisker-like barbels around their mouths, which they use to locate food.

Catfish are found in a wide range of habitats, including rivers, lakes, streams, and ponds. They are native to every continent except Antarctica and are particularly diverse in tropical regions.

Some catfish species are small and live in shallow, slow-moving waters, while others can grow to be quite large and inhabit deeper, faster-moving bodies of water. In general, catfish are bottom-dwelling fish and are often found in areas with soft, muddy bottoms.

They are opportunistic feeders and will eat a variety of foods, including plants, insects, and other small animals.

Can You Raise Your Own Catfish?

Catfish can be raised in a backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising catfish can be done in a tank, pond or pool either in your backyard or even in your home.

Catfish are one of the most adaptable species of fish in North America, and, while some care needs to be taken with regard to water quality and conditions, it won’t be nearly as precise and challenging as raising salmon or trout.

Catfish are hearty and can live comfortably under the ice for the Winter season as long as the pond has enough space under the ice to sustain oxygen levels and a basic ecosystem.

The more space catfish have under the ice (4 feet or more is good) the better the chance of survival and long-term health.

However, it’s important to note that catfish won’t grow and thrive well in water temperatures below 80ºF.

What Kind of Water Conditions Do Catfish Like?

Catfish are freshwater fish that have adapted to living in a variety of aquatic environments. They prefer slow-moving or still bodies of water (though Channel Catfish do like an obvious current), such as ponds, lakes, and reservoirs, and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions. In general, catfish prefer water that is warm (around 80°F or warmer), with a pH level of 6.5-8.5.

They also require a good supply of oxygen, which can be provided through aeration or the presence of aquatic plants. Catfish won’t survive in water that has a pH level of 11.0 or higher.

Ideally, catfish like slow-moving water with a sandy/muddy bottom though channel catfish inhabit large rivers with silt, sand, and mud as well as bottom cover.

Catfish are tolerant of high levels of nutrients and organic matter in the water, but regular monitoring and maintenance of water quality are still important to ensure the health and well-being of the fish.

This may include testing pH, temperature, and ammonia levels, as well as removing excess nutrients through the use of filters or other methods.

In addition to the water quality, it is also important to provide catfish with a suitable habitat that includes places to hide and shelter, such as logs or rocks, as well as aquatic plants for cover and food.

Very often, catfish are found in farm ponds with murky, brown water where they thrive quite well as long as other factors are present like an oxygenation source, acceptable pH level, and proper temperature.

Can You Raise Catfish in a Pond?

Catfish can be raised in a pond quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for catfish. In fact, raising catfish in a pond (rather than a swimming pool or aquarium) is the preferred and most successful method of growing catfish.

While sizes and depths can vary according to specific conditions, here is a good starting point for how to make your own catfish pond:

While depth is not as crucial for catfish as it is with salmon or trout, the deeper you make your pond, the less likely you are to lose carp in a dry season as the water level declines.

If you live in a Northern climate that freezes in the Winter, the depth of your pond should be at least 8 feet if not a few feet deeper. Even in warmer climates, the deeper the pond, the easier it is for the larger catfish to hide. Remember, while catfish in the wild can grow to massive sizes of well over 100 lbs, most pond catfish won’t be much over 10 lbs if that.

The smaller and shallower the pond, the smaller and slower a catfish will typically grow.

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 5-6 feet.

If you’re looking to raise catfish just to sustain your homestead, you’ll be able to get away with a pond that’s about a quarter of an acre and still grow a decent-sized fish. Ponds in the range of 1-5 acres are best, but not practical to create for homesteading if you don’t already have one on your property.

A smaller pond will give you the ability to control oxygen and temperature a bit more, but those factors will also fluctuate more in a smaller pond.

Aerators can be pumps, propellers or paddlewheels. Using one is likely necessary unless you have a fast-moving stream or waterfall in your pond. Water temperatures are best kept in the 81 – 87 degrees range, while ponds for spawning should be closer to 80ºF or a few degrees cooler.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about using a backhoe, digging procedures, and construction protocol.

You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with fine concrete. Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your catfish pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently.

Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water since any fish species will require some level of dissolved oxygen in their water.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit, a floating fountain (or a floating aerator), or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

Can You Raise Catfish in a Swimming Pool?

Catfish can be raised in a non-chlorinated, swimming pool (dedicated only to fish) though it’s best only to use an above-ground pool for seasonal farming, or in a warmer climate (like Southern U.S.) rather than a permanent, four-season environment. In-ground pools that have a deep end of at least 8 feet are best.

In-ground pools are less affected by freezing conditions (than above-ground pools) and the water temperature will fluctuate less.

In-ground pools are often converted into aquaculture environments for catfish farming since the switch from family swimming pool to fish pool is a small one compared to making an in-ground fish pool from scratch.

A swimming pool will need a high-volume filter to accommodate catfish long-term, but it can and has been done successfully by many.

Ultimately, any swimming pool (or fish-raising pool) will work well if you offer 250 gallons (average) per adult catfish, provide some aeration and filtration, and provide some cover for the fish to hide.

Adding selected plants can be very beneficial as they can thrive on the waste of catfish while enhancing water quality through filtration.

Catfish can survive in a frozen pool, but only if there is 3-4 feet of open water underneath and they have a steady supply of food (which means you’ll need to break the ice and feed through the hole).

Can You Raise Catfish in a Fish Tank?

Catfish can be raised in an indoor aquarium, although it is important to consider their size and the space requirements of the specific species you are planning to keep. In a large 220/250-gallon tank, you may only be able to keep one or two large catfish until they are large enough for the table.

In general, it is important to provide catfish with a suitable habitat that includes places to hide and shelter, such as logs or rocks, as well as aquatic plants for cover and food.

It is also important to monitor and maintain the water quality to ensure the health and well-being of the fish. This may include testing pH, temperature, and ammonia levels, as well as removing excess nutrients through the use of filters or other methods.

Channel catfish are the best species to keep in your aquarium if you’re raising them for food. Small fingerlings can grow to nearly 2 feet in length in about 18 months and that may be a good time to process them for the table.

Here’s a well-featured 220-gallon fish tank you can have right next to your kitchen for the ultimate convenience in catfish-raising. It will hold one or two large catfish (suitable for several meals) along with a number of smaller fish.

What is the Best Species of Catfish to Raise

There are only a couple of different species of catfish that are commonly raised for human consumption worldwide. Channel catfish are the most common with Blue catfish also being popular. There is also a hybrid between the two species that is being raised in some areas.

Channel catfish are a hardy and adaptable species that are well-suited to life in a pond. They are native to every continent but Antarctica and can grow to be quite large, reaching up to 100 pounds in weight and over 4 feet in length.

The differences between Blue and Channel Catfish are not massive when considering which species to raise in your aquaculture environment. Both require the same environment, food, etc.

Technically, a channel catfish has less than 30 rays on its anal fin while the blue catfish has 30 – 35 rays.

Another difference would be overall coloring. A channel catfish is olive/brown in color while the blue catfish is greyish/blue.

Channel catfish are found throughout North America while blue catfish are more localized in the Southeastern U.S. and they prefer a slower current than channel catfish.

One of the biggest differences between the two is that blue catfish can grow significantly larger. The average size for a channel cat is 15-40 lbs while a blue catfish averages from 40-100 lbs.

Blue catfish are not caught nearly as often as channel catfish and anglers consider them more of a prize than the common channel catfish.

Can You Farm Catfish Anywhere?

Because catfish require very little maintenance compared to most other species, it’s possible to raise catfish in farm ponds throughout their natural range including much of Eastern North America.

The more important consideration is water quality and temperature. Warmer water brings a longer (and therefore, more efficient) growing season, though it is quite common for ice fishermen to catch catfish under the ice in Central and even Northern Canada.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Catfish Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A catfish pool or pond will need to be oxygenated since all fish species require oxygen in the water for proper respiration. There are no natural sources of oxygen production in a tank or pool though there likely are in a natural pond.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

Other options for adding dissolved oxygen into pond water for your catfish would include air pumps, paddle wheels and floating fountains.

How Many Catfish Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

As a general rule, it is recommended to allow 8 gallons of water for every 1 pound of fish for immature catfish. This will provide enough space for the fish to move freely and help prevent overcrowding and stress. However, for large, full-grown catfish, 15-20 gallons per pound would be a more appropriate volume of water.

The density of catfish in a pond, pool, or aquarium depends on the size of the body of water and the needs of the specific species of fish. It is important to provide enough space for the fish to move freely and to ensure that the water has a sufficient supply of oxygen to support their needs.

If you are keeping a smaller number of fish, or if you are keeping them in an indoor aquarium, you may need to adjust the space requirements accordingly.

What Do You Feed Catfish in a Pond?

Catfish are omnivorous, which means they will eat both plant and animal matter. In a farmed setting, catfish are often fed a commercial feed that is formulated to provide them with the nutrients they need to grow and thrive, though naturally available insects, worms, and algae are on the menu as well.

These feeds can contain a variety of ingredients, such as corn, wheat, soy, fishmeal, and fish oil. Some farmed catfish may also be fed supplemental feed in the form of fruits, vegetables, and other plant matter, depending on the specific farming operation and the preferences of the farmer.

Natural food for catfish includes insects, aquatic worms, mollusks, crustaceans, and aquatic seeds and vegetation.

I know from experience that some of the best catfish fishing baits include very aromatic baits like rotting seafood, herring, chicken organs, and smelly cheese. I also know that more normal foods like hot dogs work well, as do regular worms.

How Long Does it Take to Grow Catfish for Food?

From fingerling size, a catfish can reach sexual maturity in 2-3 years and reach a weight of well over 2 lbs. They will spawn every year of their life and the average life span for a channel catfish is 7 – 9 years in a pond. They will almost certainly grow significantly larger and they can live as long as 40 years and grow to over 100 lbs in very large lakes and rivers. Catfish can grow to around 20 inches in size in about 18 months.

A good average size to process for eating would be at least 4 lbs.

Will Catfish in a Pond Reproduce?

Catfish living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the age of about 2-3 years. Like most species, catfish will need shelter and cover on the pond floor to encourage spawning. For example, many catfish farmers will add milk crates, hollowed logs, pails, old tires, and even specialized spawning boxes as spawning locations.

Water temperatures between 74ºF and 79ºF are the most conducive to spawning activity.

NOTE: While many other fish species are known to eat their young, it’s known that catfish typically do not eat their own babies. That said, they are known to eat the young of other fish including other species of catfish.

Where Can I Buy Small Catfish to Raise?

There are numerous hatcheries throughout North America that will sell you catfish fingerlings. Generally, you can expect to pay $0.50 for every 3-5 inch catfish and $2 for a 7-9 inch long channel catfish.

It’s highly advisable to stock small fingerling catfish instead of trying to raise them from eggs in a controlled environment. This is often more complicated than it’s worth for a hobbyist.

It’s best to stock catfish fingerlings in ponds with no bass or other predatory fish. You can purchase larger ones to stock in ponds with relatively small bass so the bass will not eat the entire population of stocked catfish.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Catfish at Home

While raising catfish in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh seafood at home. Here’s a quick summary of the steps needed to successfully create a great environment for raising catfish at home:

1. Choose a suitable location for your catfish pond. The pond should be large enough to accommodate the number of fish you plan to raise and should have good water quality.
2. Construct or prepare the pond. This may involve digging the pond, installing a liner, and setting up a filtration and aeration system.
3. Stock the pond with fingerling catfish. These can be purchased from a hatchery or fish farm.
4. Feed the catfish a commercial feed formulated for their nutritional needs. You can also supplement their diet with fruits, vegetables, and other plant matter.
5. Monitor the water quality and temperature regularly, and take steps to maintain optimal conditions for the fish.
6. Harvest the catfish when they reach a suitable size, usually when they are at least 3 pounds in weight.

Raising farmed catfish at home can be a rewarding and sustainable way to produce your own protein, but it does require some knowledge and effort to be successful.

Finally, it’s worth noting that a catfish can provide your family with lots of protein and it can do so for the lowest price of any farmed gamefish. Catfish fingerlings cost only a fraction of bass and trout fingerlings and give you a far better return on investment given that each fish is not only significantly lower in price to purchase, but also provides a bigger portion of meat than any other gamefish.

References:

1. https://a-z-animals.com/blog/blue-catfish-vs-channel-catfish/
2. https://www.thepondguy.com/learning-center/learn-about-catfish/
3. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FA010

Raising carp at home has become a popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition if you’re looking to add to your homestead’s sustainability during any food crisis.

In a world where we see increasing food costs, decreasing natural food sources, and a decrease in food availability and variety, it’s encouraging to be able to provide your own high-quality protein on a predictable and reliable schedule despite food price increases and supply chain problems.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

Raising and growing carp for food is a traditional and sustainable method of producing protein for a wide variety of cultures that has been practiced for centuries. Carp are a type of freshwater fish that are relatively easy to care for and can be grown in a variety of environments, including ponds, tanks, and even rice paddies.

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming carp at home in your own tank, pond or pool that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

What Exactly is a Carp?

Carp are a type of freshwater fish that are native to Europe and Asia. There are several different species of carp, including common carp, koi carp, and goldfish.

Carp are a popular food fish and are also kept as ornamental fish in outdoor ponds and tanks.

Common carp are the most widely cultivated and consumed species of carp. They have robust, elongated bodies and can grow to be quite large, reaching up to 100 pounds in weight and over 4 feet in length.

Common carp are typically gray or brown in color, with a distinctive set of barbels (whisker-like appendages) on the lower jaw. They are hardy and adaptable fish that can survive in a wide range of environments.

Koi carp are a type of domesticated common carp that are popular in ornamental ponds. They are known for their colorful patterns and long lifespan.

Goldfish are also a type of domesticated common carp and are popular as ornamental fish in outdoor ponds and indoor aquariums.

Carp are omnivorous, which means they will eat a variety of foods, including plants, small insects, and fish food. They are typically found in still or slow-moving bodies of water, such as ponds and rivers, and prefer habitats with plenty of cover and oxygen.

In North America, carp are often seen as “junk” fish and are not widely sought after. However, there is a dedicated following of carp anglers who understand this fish can grow to sizes 5 times larger than a big bass and offers good quality meat that is very underrated in the Western Hemisphere.

Can You Raise Your Own Carp?

You certainly can raise carp in a backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising carp can be done in a tank, pond or pool either in your backyard or even in your home.

Unlike raising salmon, trout or bass, carp require little care at all if you’re raising them in a backyard aquaponics pond and even less maintenance if you’re raising them in a murky farm pond used for watering cattle.

Carp are one of the most adaptable species of fish in North America and they actually prefer water that is slightly murky since they are easily spooked in clear water.

Carp are hearty and can live comfortably under the ice for the Winter season as long as the pond has enough space under the ice to sustain oxygen levels and a basic ecosystem.

The more space carp have under the ice (4 feet or more is good) the better the chance of survival and long-term health.

What Kind of Water Conditions Do Carp Like?

Carp are freshwater fish that are native to Europe and Asia and are adapted to living in a variety of aquatic environments. They prefer slow-moving or still bodies of water, such as ponds, lakes, and reservoirs, and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

In general, carp prefer water that is cool to moderate in temperature (around 60-75°F), with a pH level of 6.5-8.5. They also require a good supply of oxygen, which can be provided through aeration or the presence of aquatic plants.

Carp are tolerant of high levels of nutrients and organic matter in the water, but regular monitoring and maintenance of water quality is still important to ensure the health and well-being of the fish.

This may include testing pH, temperature, and ammonia levels, as well as removing excess nutrients through the use of filters or other methods.

In addition to the water quality, it is also important to provide carp with a suitable habitat that includes places to hide and shelter, such as logs or rocks, as well as aquatic plants for cover and food.

Very often, carp are found in farm ponds with murky, brown water where they thrive quite well as long as other factors are present like an oxygenation source, acceptable pH level and proper temperature.

Can You Raise Carp in a Pond?

Carp can be raised in a pond quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for carp. In fact, raising carp in a pond (rather than a swimming pool or aquarium) is the preferred and most successful method of growing carp.

While sizes and depths can vary according to specific conditions, here is a good starting point for how to make your own carp pond:

While depth is not as crucial for carp as it is with salmon or trout, the deeper you make your pond, the less likely you are to lose carp in a dry season as the water level declines.

If you live in a Northern climate that freezes in the Winter, the depth of your pond should be at least 8 feet if not a few feet deeper. Even in warmer climates, the deeper the pond, the easier it is for the larger carp to hide. Remember, carp in large bodies of water can grow to over 100 lbs.

The smaller and shallower the pond, the smaller and slower a carp will typically grow.

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 5-6 feet.

Assuming a carp will grow to around 15 inches (this is very conservative), then a pond of this size would be adequate for 80 fish. This is assuming a basic requirement of 250 gallons of water for 1 adult carp. Some estimates state that 100 gallons per carp is adequate.

However, carp sizes vary wildly, so this calculation is just a starting point. Here’s the basic calculation:

Pond Length x Pond Width x Average Depth x 7.48 = Gallons ( Then calculate 1 carp per 250 gallons or 100 gallons depending on your preference)

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about using a backhoe, digging procedures and construction protocol. You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with fine concrete. Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your carp pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently.

Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water since any fish species will require some level of dissolved oxygen in their water.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

PRO TIP #2 – This blog article is an easy, readable summary of the basic steps needed raise carp in a backyard, casual pond or pool. If you’re interested in extreme details written in a very scholarly manner then THIS ARTICLE is for you!

Can You Raise Carp in a Swimming Pool?

Carp can be raised in a swimming pool though it’s best only to use an above-ground pool for seasonal farming, or in a warmer climate (like Southern U.S.) rather than a permanent, four-season environment. In-ground pools that have a deep end of at least 8 feet are best.

In-ground pools are less affected by freezing conditions (than above-ground pools) and the water temperature will fluctuate less.

In-ground pools are often converted into aquaculture environments for carp or koi farming since the switch from family swimming pool to fish pool is a small one compared to making an in-ground fish pool from scratch.

A swimming pool will need a high-volume filter to accommodate carp, but it can and has been done successfully by many.

Ultimately, any swimming pool (or fish-raising pool) will work well if you offer 250 gallons (average) per adult carp, provide some aeration and filtration, and provide some cover for the fish to hide.

Adding selected plants can be very beneficial as they can thrive on the waste of carp while enhancing water quality through filtration.

Can You Raise Carp in a Fish Tank?

Remember that carp are in the same family as koi and goldfish which are long-time staples of indoor tanks and aquariums.

Carp can be raised in an indoor aquarium, although it is important to consider their size and the space requirements of the specific species you are planning to keep. In a large 220/250-gallon tank, you may only be able to keep one or two large carp.

If you are planning to raise carp in an indoor aquarium, it is important to choose a species that is suitable for life in a confined space. Goldfish are a type of carp that are commonly kept in indoor aquariums, although they can still grow to be quite large and may eventually outgrow the tank.

It is important to research the specific size and space requirements of the goldfish species you are planning to keep and to provide them with a suitable habitat that meets their needs.

In general, it is important to provide carp with a suitable habitat that includes places to hide and shelter, such as logs or rocks, as well as aquatic plants for cover and food.

It is also important to monitor and maintain the water quality to ensure the health and well-being of the fish. This may include testing pH, temperature, and ammonia levels, as well as removing excess nutrients through the use of filters or other methods.

Here’s a well-featured 220-gallon fish tank you can have right next to your kitchen for the ultimate convenience in carp-raising. It will hold one or two large carp (suitable for several meals) along with a number of smaller fish.

What is the Best Species of Carp to Raise

There are several different species of carp that can be grown in a pond, including Common Carp, Koi Carp, Grass Carp and Goldfish. Each species has its own unique characteristics and requirements, so it is important to research and choose the species that is best suited to your pond and your goals.

Common carp are a hardy and adaptable species that are well-suited to life in a pond. They are native to Europe and Asia and can grow to be quite large, reaching up to 100 pounds in weight and over 4 feet in length.

Common carp are typically gray or brown in color, with a distinctive set of barbels (whisker-like appendages) on the lower jaw. They are omnivorous, which means they will eat a variety of foods, including plants, small insects, and fish food.

Koi carp are a type of domesticated common carp (not typically raised for food) that are popular in ornamental ponds. They are known for their colorful patterns and long lifespan. Koi carp are typically larger and more delicate than common carp, and may require more specialized care and attention.

Goldfish are also a type of domesticated common carp and are popular as ornamental fish in outdoor ponds and indoor aquariums. They are smaller and more delicate than common carp, and may be more suitable for smaller ponds or tanks.

Can You Farm Carp Anywhere?

Because carp require very little maintenance compared to most other species, it’s possible to raise carp in farm ponds throughout their natural range including much of Eastern North America.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Carp Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A carp pool or pond will need to be oxygenated since all fish species require oxygen in the water for proper respiration. There are no natural sources of oxygen production in a tank or pool though there likely are in a natural pond.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How Many Carp Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

The density of carp or koi in a pond, pool, or aquarium depends on the size of the body of water and the needs of the specific species of fish. It is important to provide enough space for the fish to move freely and to ensure that the water has a sufficient supply of oxygen to support their needs.

As a general rule, it is recommended to allow for at least 100 gallons (preferably closer to 250 gallons) of water per carp or koi in a pond or pool. This will provide enough space for the fish to move freely and to help prevent overcrowding and stress.

If you are keeping a smaller number of fish, or if you are keeping them in an indoor aquarium, you may need to adjust the space requirements accordingly.

What Do You Feed Carp in a Pond?

Carp are omnivorous, which means they will eat both plant and animal matter. In a farmed setting, carp are often fed a commercial feed that is formulated to provide them with the nutrients they need to grow and thrive, though naturally available insects, worms, and algae are on the menu as well.

These feeds can contain a variety of ingredients, such as corn, wheat, soy, fishmeal, and fish oil. Some farmed carp may also be fed supplemental feed in the form of fruits, vegetables, and other plant matter, depending on the specific farming operation and the preferences of the farmer.

Natural food for carp includes insects, aquatic worms, mollusks, and crustaceans. They also consume algae and other plant matter.

I know from experience that some of the best carp fishing baits include kernels from corn on the cob as well as bread balls.

How Long Does it Take to Grow Carp for Food?

From Fingerling size, a carp can reach sexual maturity in 2-4 years and reach a weight of well over 2 lbs. They will almost certainly grow significantly larger and they can live as long as 40 years and grow to over 100 lbs. A good average size to process for eating would be at least 4 lbs.

Will Carp in a Pond Reproduce?

Carp living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the stage of reproduction. However, it’s important to note that adult carp will often consume young carp, though a spawning female carp can lay over 100,000 eggs.

Because of this, it’s wise to offer lots of added food for your adult carp and lots of cover (plants, rocks, wood features, etc.) in which young hatchlings can hide.

Where Can I Buy Small Carp to Raise?

There are numerous hatcheries throughout North America that will sell you carp fingerlings. Generally, you can expect to pay $2 for every 3-5 inch carp and $10 for a foot-long carp.

It’s highly advisable to stock small fingerling carp instead of trying to raise them from eggs in a controlled environment. This is often more complicated than it’s worth for a hobbyist.

It’s best to stock carp fingerlings in ponds with no bass or other predatory fish. You can purchase larger ones to stock in ponds with relatively small bass so the bass will not eat the entire population of stocked carp.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Carp at Home

While raising carp in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh seafood at home. Here’s a quick summary of the steps needed to successfully create a great environment for raising carp at home:

1. Choose a suitable location for your carp pond. The pond should be large enough to accommodate the number of fish you plan to raise and should have good water quality.
2. Construct or prepare the pond. This may involve digging the pond, installing a liner, and setting up a filtration system.
3. Stock the pond with fingerling carp. These can be purchased from a hatchery or fish farm.
4. Feed the carp a commercial feed formulated for their nutritional needs. You can also supplement their diet with fruits, vegetables, and other plant matter.
5. Monitor the water quality and temperature regularly, and take steps to maintain optimal conditions for the fish.
6. Harvest the carp when they reach a suitable size, usually when they are at least 1-2 pounds in weight.
7. Process and store the harvested fish according to your preferences and local regulations.

Raising farmed carp at home can be a rewarding and sustainable way to produce your own protein, but it does require some knowledge and effort to be successful. It is important to do your research and be prepared to invest the time and resources necessary to properly care for the fish.

References:

1. https://thefishsite.com/articles/production-methods-for-the-common-carp#:~:text=The%20final%20weight%20of%20the,40%2D50%20percent%20are%20achieved.
2. https://www.fao.org/3/r9972e/R9972E09.htm
3. http://www.owenandwilliams.com/grass-crap/
4. https://aquariumpart.com/common-carp/

Raising Tilapia at home is a form of aquaculture, which is the farming of aquatic organisms such as fish, crustaceans, and mollusks.

Tilapia is a popular choice for home aquaculture because they are hardy, fast-growing, and easy to care for. They are also a good source of protein and can be used for both home consumption and as a source of income.

In a world where we see increasing food costs, decreasing natural food sources, and a decrease in food availability and variety, it’s encouraging to be able to provide your own high-quality protein on a predictable and reliable schedule despite food price increases and supply chain problems.

Can I Raise Tilapia at Home?

One can certainly raise Tilapia in a backyard pond, pool or even tank, with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising Tilapia is relatively easy but they do prefer warmer water, so the farther South they are, the easier (and less expensive) it will be.

Here are some basics to whet your appetite, and then we’ll get into some further details.

• Choose the right location: Tilapia need a tank or pond that is at least 100 square feet per adult fish. The water should be clean and well-oxygenated, and the tank or pond should be located in a place that gets plenty of sunlight.

• Set up the tank or pond: You will need to install a filtration system to keep the water clean and healthy for the Tilapia. You may also need to add a heater to maintain the proper water temperature, depending on the climate where you live.

• Stock the tank or pond: Tilapia are best raised in a school of at least 6-10 fish. You can purchase fingerlings (baby Tilapia) from a local fish farm or online supplier.

• Feed the Tilapia: Tilapia are omnivorous and will eat a variety of foods, including commercial fish pellets, vegetables, and even small amounts of fruit. It is important to feed the Tilapia a balanced diet to ensure proper growth and health.

• Maintain the tank or pond: Regular water changes and monitoring of the water quality are essential to the health of the Tilapia. You should also monitor the growth of the fish and adjust the stocking density accordingly to ensure that there is enough space and food for all of the fish.

How To Set Up a Successful, Comfortable Tilapia Pond, Pool or Tank

Tilapia can be raised in a pond, pool or tank quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for Tilapia. This process is not difficult since Tilapia are extremely hearty and don’t require the precision and strict parameters needed for Salmon or Trout ponds.

Tilapia are raised successfully in a broad range of environments. You’ll be able to grow them in ponds (most common) but also in tanks and swimming pools. In fact, in many parts of Southeast Asia and South America, Tilapia are grown in waste containers or other large cans or bins.

Can I Raise Tilapia in a Pond?

Raising Tilapia in a pond will be the easiest and best option, and it can be done with minimal effort and cost.

If you decide to use a pond (this is the method I strongly suggest), you’ll have the best results and probably incur the lowest food purchasing costs of all other methods since Tilapia can feed on the naturally available food.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about using a backhoe, digging procedures and construction protocol. You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

ANOTHER PRO TIP – If you’re raising Tilapia in a pool or pond, it’s important to note that growing vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers and kale will benefit the entire enclosed ecosystem. The plants help purify the water and the waste from the Tilapia helps feed the plants.

Can I Raise Tilapia in a Swimming Pool?

Raising tilapia in a swimming pool is almost as easy as raising them in a pond. The process is similar to setting up a tilapia pond, with a few key differences involving filtration, aeration and sanitization.

Choose a suitable location: The pool should be located in an area with plenty of sunlight, as tilapia need warm water to thrive. The pool should also be close to a source of electricity and water, as you will need both for the filtration and aeration systems.

Determine the size of the pool: Tilapia need at least 50 square feet of surface area per fish, so you will need to calculate the total size of the pool based on the number of fish you plan to raise. A good rule of thumb is to aim for a pool that is at least 3 feet deep and has a surface area of at least 500 square feet.

Clean and sanitize the pool: Before adding the tilapia, you will need to thoroughly clean and sanitize the pool to remove any chemicals or contaminants. This will help ensure that the water is safe and healthy for the fish.

Plant duckweed and shade-producing water plants in the pool: You’ll want to leave some areas unplanted and open to sunlight. Algae grow in the sunlight, and tilapia eat algae. Add a 2.5-inch layer of phosphorous-rich fertilizer, such as chicken manure, to the pool one week before adding the fish.

Install a screen cover: A screen cover will help keep predators out of the pool and prevent the tilapia from jumping out. It will also help keep debris and leaves out of the pool, which can help keep the water clean.

Set up the filtration system: A good filtration system is essential for keeping the water in the pool clean and healthy for the fish. There are many different types of filtration systems available, so choose one that is appropriate for the size of your pool and the number of fish you plan to raise.

Install an aeration system: Tilapia need plenty of oxygen to survive, so an aeration system is essential. There are many different types of aeration systems available, including air pumps and diffusers. Choose one that is appropriate for the size of your pool and the number of fish you plan to raise.

Stock the pool: Once the pool is set up and the water is clean and well-oxygenated, you can add the tilapia. Start with a small number of fish and gradually increase the population as the pool can support more.

It’s best to stock the pool early in the morning or evening when temperatures are a bit cooler. Male Tilapia grow faster than females. While density ratings vary considerably (depending on who you ask), a good rule for stocking fingerlings is to add about 5 fingerlings for each square yard of water surface.

It is possible that with too high a density, cannibalism can occur.

Monitor and maintain the pool: Water temperature and overall quality should be monitored daily and adjustments made accordingly (ie. aeration levels).

Can I Raise Tilapia in a Fish Tank?

It’s quite possible to raise Tilapia in an indoor aquarium as long as fish density rules are abided by, and water quality is meticulously kept. Aeration and filtration are even more important than a pool since the smaller the container of water, the more water conditions can change for the worse.

An adult Tilapia will weigh approximately 1 lb and will require about 3 gallons of water. For reference, 25 Tilapia would be relatively happy in a 130-gallon aquarium.

This density level is far higher than any other gamefish like bass, trout, salmon or perch, which makes Tilapia a more economical fish to raise for food.

What Should I Feed My Backyard Tilapia?

Tilapia are relatively easy to feed because they will take advantage of a wider variety of food sources than other gamefish.

In many commercial farms, they are fed soybean meal or corn, but they’re just as happy with any commercially available fish food from your local feed store.

Tilapia will eat algae while many other species will die in waters where algae levels are moderate to high.

As proof that Tilapia is one of the most adaptable fish you can farm, it’s disturbing (but true) to note that in some farms, Tilapia are fed waste (excrement) from other animals like chickens and pigs!

The best news is that Tilapia will readily devour organic plant waste like some leaves, coffee grinds, sweet potato waste, rice bran, fruit, and even brewery waste. Much of this can be obtained from kitchen scraps.

Probiotics and supplemental food is necessary in a pond environment, especially since no natural food sources are available.

Water Quality and Temperature for Tilapia

Water quality is an important factor to consider when raising tilapia. Poor water quality can lead to a variety of problems, including disease, stress, and poor growth.

Tilapia can live in water that ranges from 80ºF to 100ºF, but they really prefer a temperature around 85ºF. If the temperature drops to 50ºF, the Tilapia will likely die. An ideal pH level is 7.0 with a range from 6.5 – 8.5.

A good general depth for a Tilapia pool or pond is 3 feet, and that water will require a good deal of oxygen much like a Salmon or Trout pool.

A filtration system, as well as an oxygenation system, will be needed though less is needed in larger ponds where the natural process of a wild ecosystem will compensate for lack of food and oxygen in a small tank environment.

While you can use tap water for raising Tilapia, you’ll have to remove the chlorine since no species (including Tilapia) like to live in water that has even a trace of chlorine.

Chlorine can be removed by adding 1000 milligrams of Ascorbic Acid for each 100 gallons of tap water.

Here are some other key factors to consider when maintaining good water quality for tilapia:

Temperature: Tilapia prefer water temperatures between 75-85°F, with a pH of 6.5-8.5. If the water is too cold, the fish may become sluggish and have difficulty digesting their food and they could die. If the water is too warm, the fish may become stressed and prone to disease.

Oxygen: Tilapia need plenty of oxygen to survive, so it is important to maintain good water circulation and oxygenation in the pond or tank. This can be achieved through the use of an aeration system, such as an air pump or diffuser.

Ammonia: Ammonia is a toxic waste product produced by the fish and can build up in the water if it is not properly filtered out. It is important to maintain good filtration and water circulation to help remove excess ammonia from the water.

Nitrite: Nitrite is a byproduct of the nitrogen cycle and can be toxic to fish if it builds up in the water. It is important to monitor nitrite levels and maintain good filtration to keep them in check.

Nitrate: Nitrate is the final product of the nitrogen cycle and is generally not harmful to fish at low levels. However, high levels of nitrate can be toxic and may lead to problems such as poor growth and disease.

pH: The pH of the water is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity. Tilapia prefer a slightly alkaline pH of around 7.5-8.5. If the pH is too low or too high, it can cause stress and other problems for the fish.

By monitoring and maintaining good water quality, you can help ensure that your tilapia remain healthy and thrive.

Best Species of Tilapia to Raise

While there are a number of different species of Tilapia including Red Tilapia, Blue Tilapia, Nile Tilapia and Mozambique Tilapia, Nile Tilapia is the preferred species of fish farmers throughout the world because of their spawning consistency and dependability. They usually produce more fry than other Tilapia species.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Tilapia Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A Tilapia pool or pond will need to be oxygenated the same as any other gamefish like Salmon or Trout, especially in an aquarium or pool since natural oxygenation sources are non-existent in most cases.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How Much Tilapia Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

The number of tilapia that can be kept in a tank or pool depends on the size of the tank or pool and the age and size of the fish. As a general rule, tilapia need at least 50 square feet of surface area per fish. This means that a 500-square-foot tank or pool could accommodate up to 10 adult tilapia.

However, it is important to consider the size and growth rate of the fish, as well as the filtration and aeration capacity of the tank or pool. Overcrowding can lead to problems such as poor water quality, stress, and reduced growth.

It is also important to note that tilapia grow quickly and can reach a size of up to 2-3 pounds in just a few months. This means that a tank or pool that is initially suitable for a small number of fish may quickly become overcrowded as the fish grow.

It may be necessary to gradually increase the size of the tank or pool or to periodically harvest and sell some of the fish to maintain a healthy population.

Finally, it is important to keep in mind that tilapia are social and do best when kept in groups. It is generally recommended to keep at least 6-10 fish in a tank or pool to ensure that they have enough social interaction and stimulation.

How Long Does it Take to Farm Tilapia?

Tilapia is a fast-growing species of fish and can be ready for harvest in as little as 6 to 8 months, depending on the specific farming conditions and techniques being used. Factors that can influence the growth rate of tilapia include the quality of the feed being used, the water temperature and oxygen levels in the pond or tank, and the density of the fish population.

In general, tilapia raised in high-quality conditions with a good diet and optimal water conditions will grow more quickly and be ready for harvest at a younger age than those raised in less favorable conditions.

Adult Tilapia can grow to be 1 lb but many are harvested at just 300 grams which is 0.66 lbs.

Will Tilapia in a Pond Reproduce?

Tilapia are a type of fish that are commonly farmed in ponds, and they have the ability to reproduce in these environments. In a pond setting, after reaching the age of about 3 – 4 years, tilapia typically reproduce through a process called natural reproduction, in which the fish breed and lay eggs spontaneously without the need for human intervention.

To facilitate natural reproduction in tilapia, farmers may create spawning areas within their ponds by providing the fish with structures to hide in and lay their eggs, such as PVC pipes or racks of tires.

The female tilapia will lay her eggs in these areas, and the male tilapia will then fertilize them. The eggs will hatch into fry, or young fish, within a few days.

It is also possible to artificially reproduce tilapia in ponds through the use of hormone injections or other techniques. However, natural reproduction is more common and is generally considered to be more sustainable and cost-effective.

Where Can I Get Young Tilapia Fingerlings to Grow?

Fortunately, there are many hatcheries throughout Canada and the U.S.A. who will sell Tilapia fingerlings at a very reasonable price. While prices will vary, a general cost will be about $20 for 50 fingerlings.

It’s possible to allow Tilapia to breed naturally though that process is not without its problems like male aggressiveness and smaller growth in fish that breed, etc.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Tilapia at Home

Raising tilapia in a backyard pond can be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby, as well as a source of fresh, homegrown fish for consumption. Key ideas and takeaways in your Tilapia farming research would be:

Tilapia are a tropical species of fish and require water temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit to thrive. This may limit the locations where tilapia can be successfully raised to warmer climates, or may require the use of a pond heater to maintain optimal water temperatures in cooler areas.

Tilapia need plenty of room to swim and grow, so a larger pond is generally better than a smaller one. The pond should also be well-aerated, with a good circulation system to keep the water oxygenated and clean.

Tilapia are omnivorous and will eat a wide variety of foods, including commercial fish feed, plant material, and even small insects. It is important to provide them with a balanced diet to ensure their optimal growth and health.

Tilapia, like all fish, are susceptible to diseases and parasites, so it is important to keep their living environment clean and well-maintained to prevent outbreaks. Regular water quality testing and the use of treatments as needed can help to keep tilapia healthy.

Overall, raising tilapia in a backyard pond requires some time and effort, but can be a rewarding and sustainable way to produce fresh fish for personal consumption.

References:

1. https://www.aquanet.com/small-scale-tilapia-farming#:~:text=Tilapia%20can%20be%20grown%20successfully,growing%20them%20in%20trash%20cans.&text=If%20you%20are%20using%20a,to%20set%20up%20these%20systems.
2. https://www.aquanet.com/small-scale-tilapia-farming#:~:text=Tilapia%20are%20often%20grown%20along,helps%20to%20purify%20the%20water.
3. https://aquaponicsadvisor.com/how-do-tilapia-breed-2/#:~:text=A%3A%20Tilapia%20can%20reproduce%20in,are%20ready%20to%20become%20adults.

Ice fishing is a wintertime activity that involves fishing through holes in the ice on a frozen body of water. It is a popular pastime in many cold-weather regions, as it allows people to enjoy the outdoors and potentially catch fish even during the colder months of the year.

To ice fish, people first drill holes in the ice using an ice auger or chisel. They then use a variety of specialized tools and techniques to lure and catch fish, such as jigging rods, tip-ups, and portable fish finders.

Ice fishing can be done from the shore (a bit awkward and difficult), or from a portable shelter set up on the ice (the normal way). These shelters, which are often insulated and heated, can provide a comfortable place to sit and fish, even in very cold temperatures.

Ice fishing can be a fun and rewarding activity, but it is important to be safe and prepared. Proper clothing and equipment, such as thermal boots and ice picks, are essential. It is also important to be aware of the thickness and safety of the ice, as falling through the ice can be dangerous or even deadly.

In this article, I will outline some of the very basic procedures, skills, and introductory techniques for ice fishing. It’s only an introduction, so to get more specific information on more advanced tips, tools and advice on specific species, please check out our extensive list of ice fishing articles!

What Gear Do I Need to Get Started?

At a bare minimum, here’s my list of items you’ll need in order to access the fish. It’s not a list of all the cool things you COULD have. That’s another article altogether!

• You’ll need to start with a fishing license. Along with your license, you’ll need to determine what species of sportfish is legal to catch in your area and during the time you’ll be fishing.
• Ice auger or chisel: This is a tool used to drill holes in the ice. There are hand-powered augers and those that run on gasoline or electricity.
• Fishing rod and reel: Look for a rod and reel specifically designed for ice fishing, as these are typically shorter and more sensitive than traditional fishing rods. However, you can just use your regular Summer open water fishing rod and reel even though it will be longer and more awkward to use than a dedicated ice fishing rig.

• Bait and lures: What you use for bait or lures will depend on the type of fish you are targeting. Live bait, such as worms or minnows, can be effective, or you can try artificial lures designed to imitate the movements and appearance of live bait.
• Ice skimmer: This is a net used to remove slush and ice chips from the holes in the ice.
• Thermal boots: These are insulated boots designed to keep your feet warm and dry in cold, wet conditions.
• Warm clothing: Dress in layers to stay warm, and be sure to bring a hat, gloves, and a facemask to protect your face from the cold.
• Something to sit on! While technically not necessary, we’re pretty sure you’ll want at least an upside-down pail to sit on for a couple hours!

We’ll discuss more ice-fishing equipment like fish finders, ice picks for enhanced safety, tip-ups and more in our article dealing with the top items you’ll want for ice fishing!

How Thick Does Ice Need to Be to Ice Fish?

As rule, ice that is at least 4 inches thick is safe to walk on. Ice that is at least 7 inches thick is acceptable for an ATV or snowmobile, while 12-inch ice is the minimum thickness to support a car or small pickup truck. Remember these ice thickness standards refer to solid ice known as clear ice or black ice, and not ice made from melted snow (known as slush ice, snow ice or white ice).

Any ice made from melted and re-frozen water or from splashes from waves in open water, is not as strong. Air bubbles and crunchy snow mixed with ice is fine if it’s on top of clear ice, but the clear or black ice needs to be at least 4 inches thick if you’re on foot.

I use 5 inches as a minimum just to be on the safe side and in case I run across areas of thinner ice due to moving water, springs, steams and other factors that can compromise the integrity of the ice.

How Do I Find a Good Location to Ice Fish?

The first thing to do is to check the local fishing regulations to make sure you are allowed to fish there and be sure to get permission if you are fishing on private property.

Great places to look at are lakes that have been home to various fishing competitions and tournaments (especially if they are ice fishing tournaments) in the past, since they are known to have decent populations of gamefish that can be caught in the cold months.

Another great way to research a good fishing spot is to ask at a local tackle store to find the latest news on any good spots that have been recently successful for local anglers.

Ponds and lakes should be deeper than 10 feet to give you the best chance of connecting with a variety of species. It’s not uncommon to fish in the same hole on multiple days and catch multiple fish of one species on one day, and a completely different species the next day.

Here’s a good checklist of a few other variables to consider:

1. Look for areas with a good population of the type of fish you want to catch: Different species of fish prefer different types of habitat, so do some research to find out where the fish you are targeting are likely to be found.
2. Consider the depth and structure of the water: Fish tend to congregate in areas with diverse bottom structures, such as drop-offs, points, and underwater humps. These areas can provide cover and food for the fish, and can also be good places to find fish during the winter.
3. Look for safe and accessible areas: Choose a spot that is easy to get to, and be sure to check the thickness and safety of the ice before venturing out. A minimum of 4 inches is suggested, but I use 5 inches as my minimum.
4. Consider the weather and wind conditions: Wind can affect the movement of the fish, and can also make the ice unsafe. Choose a location that is protected from the wind, or plan to fish on a day with calm winds.

CAUTION: Something to be cautious about (especially if you’re a beginner) when looking for locations, is to avoid bodies of water with significant moving currents (like rivers, creeks, streams, etc.). In locations with current (including spring-fed ponds), ice thickness is notoriously unpredictable and inconsistent.

It’s much easier to find yourself in big trouble surrounded by cracking ice as you stumble across an unexpected current. Stick with lakes and ponds with still water for a consistent and predictable ice thickness.

How Do I Know Where to Drill my Hole(s)?

Deciding where to drill can be an intimidating task since it could take you a very long time to get through the ice. If you choose the wrong location, you may be wasting valuable time and energy!

One of the best ways to find a strategic and successful place to drill is to start researching places before the ice sets in. Summer fishing trips are a great way to determine areas where fish like to congregate like inlets into a lake or pond, underwater structures like fallen trees or boulders, and drop-offs like underwater edges and even underwater springs.

I mentioned earlier in this article to avoid places with moving water, so my advice on where to drill a hole may seem contradictory. In a sense, it is.

However, it’s possible to use caution and keep your distance from areas of questionable ice safety, while still taking advantage of the presence of predatory fish that are there. If not, drill your hole in an area where ice depth is not compromised.

If you approach a stream entering a lake, it’s possible you may not need to drill at all as there is often an open water area at the entrance point of the stream into the lake.

Underwater structures, on the other hand, can be found anywhere and the quality of ice is not compromised by their presence.

There are instruments that can measure ice depth without having to chop or drill a hole in the ice, but they are prohibitively expensive in most cases, so using a thin auger or pry/spud bar with a sharp end will serve well enough to make at least a small hole into which you can insert an ice thickness measuring tool.

If you’re wondering how many holes to drill, that depends on your motivation, your equipment and local regulations. There is no limit on the number of holes you drill but there may be a limit on the number of fishing rods being used by one person. Check your local regulations on this issue.

Theoretically, if it’s allowed, you can drill as many holes and use as many rods as you like, but you’ll need tip-ups (unsupervised fishing rods on a small stand meant for ice fishing).

Unfortunately, holes with no constant human presence can freeze over quickly in sub-zero conditions.

How Deep Should I Fish Under the Ice?

When ice fishing, it’s important to fish at the right depth in order to increase your chances of success. The depth at which you should fish depends on a number of factors, including the species of fish you are targeting, the time of year, and the structure of the lake or river in which you are fishing.

As a rule, it’s not a bad idea to let a lure sink to the bottom of the fishing hole and then reel it up a few feet off the bottom. This is a typical zone that will hold fish if they are in the area.

Here are a few general guidelines to follow when determining how deep to fish when ice fishing:

1. Consider the species of fish you are targeting: Different species of fish tend to be found at different depths. For example, panfish (such as bluegill and crappie) are often found in shallow water, while larger predatory fish (such as pike and lake trout) tend to be found in deeper water.
2. Check the time of year: Fish tend to move to deeper water in the winter to avoid cold surface temperatures. As a result, you may need to fish deeper in the winter months to find fish, though there are exceptions to this guideline.
3. Look for structure: Fish often congregate around underwater structures, such as drop-offs, points, or weed beds. These structures can provide cover and food for the fish, so it can be worth your while to fish around them.

In general, it’s a good idea to start by fishing at a moderate depth (around 10-15 feet) and then adjust your depth as needed based on the conditions and your success status. It can also be helpful to use a fish finder or other electronic device to help locate fish and determine the best depth at which to fish.

I have found success fishing under the ice at depths that don’t deviate too much from successful Summer fishing depths. For example, Pike are often found in 5-10 feet of water in the Summer, and I have found them at just that depth under the ice as well.

Bass, on the other hand, tend to be slow and lethargic (all species are in the Winter compared to Summer but bass especially) and are found in deeper water than in Summer. 25 feet is a good starting point for ice fishing for bass where allowed by law.

What Are the Best Lures or Bait for Ice Fishing?

While there is no absolute answer for this, a great place to start if panfish, bass or walleye is the target species, would be gold and silver or brightly colored jigs designed for ice fishing and sized a bit smaller than those used during the warm weather season. As a beginner, it can be advantageous to start with live bait which will move and act on its own, unlike lures which will need the angler’s expertise and experience to make it look like bait.

Many lures are made for a variety of species so they’ll be the most versatile options. However, many anglers find more success with live bait (or dead bait) or a combination of both.

Worms and minnows are good not only in warmer months, but they work well for ice fishing as well. If you’re using a tip-up system, you’ll need to have some form of bait rather than just an artificial lure.

Experimenting is always suggested (especially if using all artificial lures), but if you have a particular live or dead bait, I’d use it as much as possible while experimenting more with depths and locations rather than baits.

How Long Should I Stay at One Ice Fishing Hole?

As a basic starting point in determining how long to stay at any one given location while ice fishing, a good rule of thumb is about 1 hour without success. However, before moving on, it’s best to consider whether other factors like bait or presentation are affecting your level of success.

Many anglers drill multiple holes and tend to them all while using different baits/techniques in each hole. This is the best way to determine whether or not it’s a good fishing day.

There are many factors that will usually affect your decision to move on, but if your multiple holes (chosen based on factors like underwater cover/drop-offs, etc.) are not producing any fish using a variety of baits, then it’s likely that moving to another location on the lake will produce the same results.

Can I Ice Fish From Shore?

The idea of ice fishing from the shoreline is a novel concept to many, but it’s something that is done more than one might think. Under the right conditions, it’s very possible and even preferable (for the sake of safety) to fish from shore when the ice is too thin (less than 4 inches) and it’s not safe to walk on.

If the ice is thinner than about 1-inch, it’s possible to use a disposable rock or another heavy object to break a hole in the ice with a throw from shore (tied to a rope so you can retrieve it and throw it again to increase the size of the hole).

Ideally, you’ll want to be on a shore adjacent to relatively deep water like near a drop-off or on the edge of a canal, etc. so you’ll have access to deeper water fairly close to shore.

Then, it would be a matter of casting a small jig with an open water fishing rig (Summer fishing rod and reel) and reeling the lure over the hole to let it drop in to begin fishing.

This technique is used successfully by many anglers though it may not sound like it would work well.

Here’s a video to see this technique in action;

Ice Fishing for Beginners – Key Takeaways

Ice fishing is a fun and exciting way to enjoy the winter months and catch some fish. However, it can also be dangerous if proper precautions are not taken. It is important for beginners to understand the risks and take steps to ensure their safety while ice fishing.

It can also be intimidating if you’ve never gone ice fishing and don’t know what fishing techniques to use, how to make a hole in the ice efficiently and safely, or where to fish. Hopefully, this article has helped with some of those challenges!

It is also important to be respectful of the environment and to follow all local laws and regulations. With the right knowledge and preparation, ice fishing can be an enjoyable and rewarding activity for beginners.

Raising bass at home has become a popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition, especially in light of factors such as inflation and rising food prices, along with less availability of affordable options.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming bass at home in your own tank, pond or pool that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

We’ll look at not only how to get your aquaculture system ready for bass, but we’ll outline some of the many challenges with sustaining a pool or pond filled with bass.

Can You Raise Your Own Bass?

You certainly can raise your own bass in your backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising bass can be done in a tank, pond or pool either in your backyard or even in your home, though it’s best to be aware of some of the main challenges you’ll face in the process.

While it is possible (and even popular) to grow your own bass at home in a pond, pool or tank, there are some important considerations to keep in mind.

First, it is important to ensure that the pond, pool, or tank is large enough to support the growth and development of the bass. Bass are hefty fish and can grow to be quite large, so they will need plenty of space to swim and thrive.

Second, you will need to provide the bass with a proper diet. Bass are carnivorous and will need to be fed a diet rich in protein, such as worms, insects, and small fish.

Third, you will need to maintain proper water quality in order to keep your bass healthy. This includes regular testing and adjusting the pH level, maintaining a proper temperature range, and ensuring that there is enough oxygen in the water.

Finally, it is important to be aware of any local regulations or restrictions on raising bass in a backyard pond or tank. Some areas may have laws or ordinances that prohibit or regulate the keeping of certain types of fish, so it is important to be familiar with these rules before setting up a bass pond or tank.

How Big of a Pond is Needed to Raise Big Bass?

As a general rule, it is recommended to provide at least 10-20 gallons of water per inch of fish in a pond. This means that a pond for largemouth bass should be at least 200-400 gallons PER FISH, while a pond for smallmouth bass should be at least 150-300 gallons per fish.

The size of the pond needed to raise largemouth or smallmouth bass will depend on a number of factors, including the number of fish you plan to raise and the size you want them to reach.

Largemouth bass are larger than smallmouth bass and while a typical size is around 5 lbs and 16 inches in length, they can grow to be over 35 inches in length and weigh more than 20 pounds.

Smallmouth bass, on the other hand, are considered fairly big if they grow to be around 15 inches in length and weigh around 4 pounds.

However, these are just rough estimates and the actual size of the pond needed will depend on a variety of factors, such as the size of the pond, the quality of the water, and the availability of food and shelter for both predators and prey. It is always best to consult with a local fish expert or a professional pond builder to determine the optimal size for your particular situation.

It is also worth considering that the size of the pond will need to be larger if you plan to raise multiple fish or if you want to keep a mix of different species, as this will require more space and resources.

In general, it is best to provide as much space as possible for your fish to ensure their health and well-being.

How Do I Make a Bass Pond?

It’s best to stock bass in a pond that is no less than 1 acre in size and preferably 3-6 acres in order to ensure a more complete ecosystem that can potentially sustain itself without too much need to interfere with extra food, water conditioning/filtration, etc.

Some crucial elements to consider when creating a bass pond would be to ensure that the:

• Surface area of the pond should be bigger than half an acre for a long-term, quality bass and bluegill sport fishery (bluegill are excellent prey for Largemouth Bass)
• Slope of your shoreline should be at an approximate ratio of around 3:1 (30% incline) to minimize erosion, limit the excessive growth of aquatic plants, minimize surface area fluctuation, and provide shoreline fishing access.
• Maximum depth should be greater than 7 feet in the Southeast U.S. and deeper than 13 feet in semiarid portions of the U.S. (Arizona, Nevada, etc.) to provide adequate permanent water during a dry season.
• Overflow pipes or emergency spillways should be installed and maintained to handle excess water.
• Clay content of the soil is sufficient to hold water. Digging a test hole is absolutely imperative to avoid costly mistakes going forward.
• Choice of vegetation is importantly considered. For example, cattails are an aquatic plant that can quickly grow out of control, so it’s often best left out of the bass pond plans.

If you’re thinking of a smaller pond to raise fewer bass, you’ll need to care for it in a different manner than a larger pond of 1 acre or more. You’ll need to carefully control all factors including food quantities (feed manually) and quality among many other factors (filtration, aeration, etc).

Here’s a basic construction method for smaller bass ponds:

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move.

A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 8 feet or more in the SouthEastern U.S. and over 12 feet in drier areas of the SouthWest.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge of backhoe operation and digging/construction procedures, and protocol.

You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with fine concrete (assuming the pond is not larger than about 1/5 of an acre.

Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do. As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric.

The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your bass pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently. Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

IMPORTANT: It’s noteworthy to consider that many landowners looking to create a bass pond will have the option of sculpting the features of the pond with a backhoe or bulldozer to create optimal bass habitat.

For example, to provide the best scenario for bass would be to add creek channels, standing timber, flooded humps, brush piles, mid-pond humps and shallow areas with lily pads.

All these features provide cover for both predators (bass) and prey (minnows, bluegill, and other smaller bass).

Can You Raise Bass in a Swimming Pool?

It is not recommended to try to raise largemouth bass in a swimming pool. Largemouth bass are big, predatory fish that require a significant amount of space to swim and grow. They also have specific water temperature and pH requirements that may be difficult to maintain in a swimming pool. Additionally, bass produce a lot of waste and can quickly contaminate the water if not properly cared for.

In general, it is best to raise bass in a pond which will naturally create its own relatively correct pH levels, food sources, water quality, and all other environmental factors that contribute to a healthy ecosystem for bass.

Even with a large pond, it is likely you’ll have to add lime to keep pH levels in order every few years.

If you insist on raising (or more appropriately, temporarily keeping) bass in a swimming pool, here are some guidelines;

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 6 – 8 feet, though your above-ground pool is likely closer to 2-3 feet.

It’s best not to keep bass in a swimming pool as a permanent home unless it’s a large pool, you have only a few bass and you feed them enough (likely by hand on a daily basis).

The pool will need to be aerated and filtered with the proper water (which is not tap water given the chlorinated content of municipal water sources).

Depending on your location, you may not need to regulate a pool temperature too much. Smallmouth bass prefer a cooler water temperature (like 65ºF – 70ºF) than Largemouth bass (which prefer water temps over 80ºF), so that will suit most pools in the Northern U.S. during warmer months (if you’re raising Smallmouth bass).

Where Can I Get Bass to Raise?

There are quite a few hatcheries throughout the country that will sell fingerling (small) sized bass to start raising. It’s important to note that all bass in a specific enclosed environment like a pond or pool should be about the same size so the larger ones won’t immediately eat the smaller ones.

Prices can range quite a bit, but as a starting point, you’ll be able to buy small bass (3-4 inches) for just under $2 each, while big ones over a foot in length are upwards of $17. Intermediate sizes are, of course, available.

Can You Raise Bass in a Fish Tank?

Bass can be raised in a fish tank, but because the ecosystem is so small, water quality factors and water volume, size of tank, and other factors need to be strictly controlled.

The standard wisdom regarding how big a fish tank you should have for a pet fish indoors is about 1 gallon of water for every 1 inch of total fish in the tank. That would mean one 15-inch bass would require a 15-gallon tank right?

NO WAY! Bass definitely break that rule for a number of reasons.

First of all, they eat a lot more than other species and create more waste. Secondly, they grow so quickly (and to unknown exact sizes) that your calculations can be way off.

It’s best to assume bass will get as big as 15 or more inches and base your tank size on this loose size estimate.

A good general rule of thumb would be a 200-gallon tank for 2 Largemouth bass that are fed as much as they’d like to eat in order to maximize growth.

Here’s a well-featured 220-gallon fish tank you can have right next to your kitchen for the ultimate convenience in bass-raising

If you’re considering an aquarium to raise your own bass for high-quality protein, you’ll need a few other aquarium items like a filter and oxygenator. You’ll find some great options I like right here:

An ideal range for raising Largemouth bass is between 65ºF and 90ºF in an aquarium. This is a very wide range not applicable to most other species of fish you might grow for eating.

If your aquarium is located in an environment that is exceptionally warm like a greenhouse in Florida in the Summer, it may be necessary to have a method of cooling your tank. You may need a 200-gallon aquarium chiller like the one here:

Best Species of Bass to Raise

There is little doubt that Hybrid Striped Bass, Largemouth Bass, and Smallmouth Bass are the most common and popular species of trout to farm at home. Even so, the vast majority of farmed bass are Largemouth Bass and Hybrid Striped bass.

Hybrid Striped Bass

Hybrid striped bass, also known as wiper or sunshine bass, are a cross between striped bass and white bass. They are widely distributed throughout the United States and are popular sportfish due to their aggressive behavior and willingness to bite on lures.

Hybrid striped bass are typically larger and hardier than either of their parent species, and they can tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions. In fact, they were basically bred to be the perfect bass for aquaculture environments.

In terms of appearance, hybrid striped bass have a similar shape to striped bass, with a sleek, streamlined body and a slightly forked tail. They have a dark stripe running down the length of their body, which gives them their name. Hybrid striped bass are generally silvery in color, with a white belly and a greenish-blue back.

Hybrid striped bass are carnivorous and feed on a variety of prey, including smaller fish, crustaceans, and insects.

Largemouth Bass

Largemouth bass are a popular sportfish that are widely distributed throughout the United States and Canada. They are known for their aggressive behavior and large mouths, which give them their name.

Largemouth bass are typically greenish-brown in color and have a distinctive dark stripe running down the length of their body. They have a large, slightly rounded body and a slightly forked tail. Largemouth bass can grow to be quite large, with some individuals reaching over 20 pounds.

Largemouth bass are typically found in freshwater lakes and streams, although they can also be found in brackish water. They prefer to live in areas with plenty of cover, such as weeds, logs, or brush, and they are often found near the edges of streams or in the shallows of lakes.

Largemouth bass are carnivorous and feed on a variety of prey, including smaller fish, crustaceans, and insects. They are active predators and are known for their strong fighting ability when hooked, which makes them a popular target for anglers.

Smallmouth Bass

Smallmouth bass are popular sportfish that are also found generously throughout the United States and Canada, much like Hybrid Striped Bass and Largemouth Bass. They are known for their distinctive small mouths, which give them their name.

Smallmouth bass are typically bronze or brownish in color and usually don’t have a distinctive dark strip on the side of their bodies like Largemouth Bass. They have a smaller, more streamlined body compared to Largemouth Bass, and their tail is more deeply forked.

Smallmouth bass can grow to be quite large, with some individuals reaching over 5 pounds.

Smallmouth bass are typically found in clear, cool freshwater streams, rivers, and lakes. They prefer to live in areas with rocky bottoms and moderate to swift currents, and they are often found near the edges of streams or in the shallows of lakes.

They are carnivorous and feed on a variety of prey, including smaller fish, crayfish, and insects. These active predators are known for their strong fighting ability when hooked (they often launch out of the water unlike Largemouth Bass who rarely break the surface of the water in such spectacular fashion as a Smallmouth), which makes them a popular target for anglers.

Best Water Conditions for Raising Bass

One of the easiest bass to farm or raise in your backyard pond or pool is the Largemouth Bass. To stock Largemouth bass in your pond you will usually need to have a water pump (to circulate stagnant water) an air pump and a water filter. You also need to provide fish with lots of underwater cover as well as moderate vegetation. Water quality and temperature are very important considerations for keeping bass healthy, and the ideal temperature is somewhere between 87ºF – 92ºF.

Bass can handle lots of water quality variations (especially Largemouth bass) but some water quality conditions need to be addressed. Water pH levels need to be kept as close to 7.0 as possible, but unlike most other species (ie. Salmon, Trout, Perch), bass can deal with pH levels anywhere from 5.0 to 10.0 and still thrive.

However, to keep proper levels of pH and to control other factors (ie. ammonia, nitrite, etc.), it may be helpful to use a protein filter if raising bass in a small pool or pond (especially if it has a liner).

Protein filters or skimmers deal with waste such as fish poop and forgotten food, etc. This can be helpful in smaller ecosystems that may not be able to compost enough of those proteins to keep the water clear.

Can You Farm Bass Anywhere?

Because bass require water temperatures between 65ºF and 90ºF (no more than 70ºF for Smallmouth), you’ll be able to farm them anywhere where you can be sure water temperatures won’t go above this range significantly and/or for a prolonged duration.

Much of Southern Canada and all of the U.S. mainland is suitable for raising bass in a backyard pond.

However, the right conditions need to be met to successfully raise large and healthy bass. We’ve talked a bit about the technical quality of the water (pH levels, potential pollutants, etc.) but it’s important to know how to maintain your bass pond even after the environmental and water conditions have been optimized.

For example, how many fish do you stock or leave in a pond? Do you feed them? With what? Should you remove a certain number of them annually, and if so, how many, and what size? That’s just the start of the questions that can arise and should be dealt with after your pond is operational.

A great resource on the specifics of those questions and more can be found HERE:

Learn more about pond maintenance, slot limits, and population management in this video:

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Trout Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A bass pool absolutely needs oxygenation, while a large pond likely will not. Bass are a hearty species that do not require as high a dissolved oxygen level as do trout or salmon (or most other species).

If your bass are living in a swimming pool, you’ll need to use some method of circulating the water and adding oxygen. Without some form of oxygenation, there won’t be enough dissolved oxygen for bass to survive more than a week or so in a 10-foot diameter swimming pool.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall (or just a suspended hose that allows pumped water to drop into the pool to create turbulence and water flow) that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How Many Bass Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

There are several factors that will determine how many bass can be successfully raised in an enclosed containment system environment, but a good rule of thumb would be about 60 – 100 bass in a 1-acre pond with a depth of at least 8 feet of water – preferably 12 feet or more.

Many ponds will experience a drop in water levels during the hottest months and water clarity and oxygen levels can be negatively affected as well. This will endanger fish populations and fewer fish will be better than more in a pond experiencing such conditions.

Remember that the very general rule of 60 – 100 Largemouth bass per 1-acre pond can vary greatly based on factors like pond depth and oxygen content. Be sure to understand that in that 1-acre pond with let’s say 75 bass, you’ll also need to add lots of baitfish like bluegill and fathead minnows.

With a healthy population of all those baitfish (and even more), a 1-acre pond will still be able to nicely support up to 100 Largemouth bass.

What Do You Feed Bass in a Pond?

In a healthy pond of 1 or more acres in size, bass often will not need to be fed (depending on how many bass live in the pond). However, adding baitfish like shad, sunfish, minnows, etc. will serve well to feed the bass. Alternatively, you can successfully feed them food designed for other predator species like Salmon and Trout.

Bass will thrive on any of their natural food sources like smaller fish, but they will also thrive with predator species pellets.

One of the better options we’ve found in our research (and limited experience) is Purina’s AquaMax SportFish food.

How Long Does it Take to Farm Bass?

In cooler habitats (like Northern U.S. and Canada) bass typically grow to be close to 12″ in 4-6 years. This growth rate is far slower than salmon, trout, perch and some other species. Their lifespan can stretch to as long as 15 years. In warm climates like Florida, bass can reach 14″ in 2 years.

Remember that variables like food availability, water conditions, and fishing pressure (all of which will be managed by the owner of the pond) will dramatically affect sizes and timing of growth and maturity.

Will Bass in a Pond Reproduce?

Bass living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the stage of reproduction. Most ponds conducive to bass reproduction will include shallow areas with a variety of gravel conditions to facilitate and encourage spawning activity.

To maximize the odds of having your bass spawn in your pond or pool, you’ll want to be sure the water clarity is high, the temperature is cool (50ºF – 80ºF spawning), there is a moving water inlet (ie. stream or artificial injection of recirculated water) and that the area near the flowing water is relatively shallow 6″ – 18″ and has a gravel bed.

These conditions best simulate a natural spawning bed and will increase your odds of a successful spawning season in your pond.

Bass Pond Maintenance Basics

Once you have a successful bass pond operating (preferably well over 1 acre with no upper size limit), it’s crucial to understand some basic maintenance concepts. pH levels need to be maintained, though, as mentioned earlier, the variance of pH that can be tolerated by bass is quite wide (pH between 5 and 10 is tolerated with 7.0 being ideal).

The addition of lots of food fish (bluegill is often the main source) is also vitally important. Proper pH levels and fertilization will ensure adequate plankton populations for bluegill food.

A great pond fertilizer is Perfect Pond Plus by BioLogic.

Another great option is from PondWorx. Click the photo of the Pond Bacteria containers to learn more.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Bass at Home

While raising bass in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh seafood at home.

Bass are one of the easier species of fish to maintain in your backyard, but you’ll still have to know a bit about management procedures like water conditions, food types and quantities, and how to harvest or add bass to maintain and sustain populations of healthy fish.

By following the guidelines outlined in this brief, you can enjoy delicious fish while helping support local economies by farming responsibly. All it takes is some dedication, effort, and knowledge of farming practices to make your dream of farming bass come true! Good luck!

References:

1. https://www.bassresource.com/fish_biology/raising_trophy_bass.html
2. https://fisheries.tamu.edu/pond-management/species/hybrid-striped-bass/#:~:text=Biology%20and%20Life%20History%3A%20Hybrid,seldom%20found%20in%20shallow%20areas.
3. https://www.gardenguides.com/how_5568157_raise-above-ground-swimming-pool.html

Raising perch at home has become a popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition, especially in areas where there are limited sources of wild-caught perch.

With dwindling wild perch populations in the great lakes, it’s more important and viable than ever to raise your own perch for food and for sale.

Perch have long been valued for their firm, white and flaky flesh. The taste of perch has always been its main attraction and it is one of the few warm-water fish whose taste rivals that of any cold-water fish like trout or salmon, but the flakiness of the meat takes the top spot amongst all competitors!

In a world where we see increasing food costs, decreasing natural food sources, and a decrease in food availability and variety, it’s encouraging to be able to provide your own high-quality protein on a predictable and reliable schedule despite food price increases and supply chain problems.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming perch at home in your own tank, pond, or pool that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

Can You Raise Your Own Perch?

You certainly can raise perch in your own backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising perch can be done in a tank, pond, or pool either in your backyard or even in your home.

Unlike other popular fish species you might raise such as trout or salmon, perch don’t require as much finessing of exact pH levels and cool water temperatures.

If you have an old in-ground swimming pool or any above-ground pool as well, you should be able to create a very favorable perch habitat. If you have a pond, so much the better.

While many fish farmers use natural ponds to grow perch, just as many use the water from those ponds to circulate through large, plastic fish tanks.

Can Perch Be Farmed on Land?

Not only can perch be farmed on land, but there is a very strong trend in the world of commercial perch farming to raise perch hundreds and even thousands of miles away from any large body of water like an ocean or great lake.

Closed environment (aka. “closed containment system”) perch farming is the process by which perch are raised without direct contact with any outside natural body of water.

This is the most common method of perch farming.

The water quality is maintained and fish are not exposed to diseases, parasites, pollution, poor food quality or any negative outside influences while being exposed to superior water quality and superior food quality.

Farmed perch is sold at a premium price to wild-caught perch.

The superior quality of land-farmed perch is exactly what you’ll have access to when you raise your own!

Can You Raise Perch in a Pond?

Perch can be raised in a pond quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for perch.

While sizes and depths can vary according to specific conditions, here is a good starting point for how to make your own perch pond:

As with most fish species, the more water you can give them, the better. Ideally, you would provide them with a natural outdoor pond of 1 acre and a muddy or gravelly bottom with lots of weeds for algae and food sources to grow as well as a location to spawn (lay eggs).

If you live in a Northern climate that freezes in the Winter, the depth of your pond should be at least 8 – 10 feet if not a few feet deeper. Even in warmer climates, the deeper the pond, the easier it is for the perch to find the most suitable water temperature for their annual life-cycle stage.

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 5-6 feet minimum.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about using a backhoe, digging procedures and construction protocol. You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with a fine concrete. Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your perch Pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently.

Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water since perch (like any species) will need a source of oxygenated water. Thankfully, perch need much less oxygenation than trout or salmon.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, be sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

Can You Raise Perch in a Swimming Pool?

Perch can be raised in a swimming pool though it’s best only to use an above-ground pool for seasonal farming rather than a permanent, four-season environment. Above-ground pools are often used in tropical locations like Hawaii or the Southern US mainland.

In-ground pools are less affected by freezing conditions (than above-ground pools) and the water temperature will fluctuate less. In-ground pools are often converted into aquaculture environments for perch farming since the switch from family swimming pool to fish pool is a small one compared to making an in-ground fish pool from scratch.

Ideally, pools should have aquatic plants in them (great environment for perch food – algae, aquatic insects, smaller fish, etc.) and should be at least 8 feet deep in a portion of the pool (just like a regular in-ground swimming pool).

Can You Raise Perch in a Fish Tank?

Perch can be raised in any environment that provides the right conditions for their survival and ability to thrive. A fish tank can be used to raise perch though most tanks are far too small to successfully (ethically, physically) raise healthy perch.

I have not raised perch in my indoor aquarium, but I’ve done a lot of research and have found lots of “red flags” when it comes to raising perch in a glass tank indoors.

Firstly, your tank should resemble their natural habitat which is weedy with lots of cover. Not only that, but the size of your tank should be as large as possible.

One suggested scenario is a 150 L tank to raise FOUR perch. This volume of water is easily enough to sustain such a small quantity of perch, but raising 4 perch in a huge tank is not practical if you’re looking for a good return on investment for food.

The other problem is that even if you only have a few perch in a large aquarium, their growth will still be limited compared to a larger environment like a natural lake or even a commercial-sized tank or pool.

If you’re serious about raising perch as food fish, it’s best to use a small swimming pool-sized containment system of several thousand liters.

Best Species of Perch to Raise

In North America, Yellow Perch is the perch of choice because they are the most common in much of the Great Lakes region and throughout Canada and the Northern U.S. states. If you live in Canada or the U.S. and you’re looking to grow perch, it’s almost a given that you’ll choose Yellow Perch (though some really like White Perch).

In the rest of the world, perch species vary significantly, with Redfin and Silver perch being common in Australia, for example.

A quick Google search will reveal more than 40 different species of perch commonly found worldwide.

Can You Farm Perch Anywhere?

Because Perch require specific water conditions (including a water temperature range of around 77ºF or lower), you’ll be able to farm them anywhere where you can be sure water temperatures won’t go above this range significantly and/or for a prolonged duration.

It’s suggested that you raise perch in regions to which that species of perch is native in the wild in order to take advantage of the best environmental conditions such as water and air temperatures, seasons and food.

IMPORTANT: Raising perch is more difficult than many other species for several reasons of note. Firstly, they will eat their young if not raised with others of the same size and age. They are also notoriously difficult to raise from eggs to fingerlings because they like live food during their early growth stages and often will not even eat pellets once they are old enough to do so.

Best Water Conditions for Raising Perch

Perch can survive in an environment with lots of variability in pH levels and temperature as well as water clarity. Most perch aquariums are filled with just tap water, while some who want to enhance the water conditions will add several liters of pond water for the natural bacteria.

However, if pH levels deviate too far from the ideal (of around 7), you can add or lower them. To raise pH levels, use a product like Baking Soda (pH level of 9) or crushed coral. To lower pH levels, use lemon juice or limestone.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Perch Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A perch pool or pond will need to have some level of oxygenation (especially if it’s an indoor aquarium) but perch can survive in a much lower dissolved oxygen water environment than trout or salmon.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How to Introduce Perch to my Pond

You can provide the environment and process for hatching eggs and raising the fingerlings (baby perch) but it is usually far easier and less of a hassle to buy fingerlings to grow for food.

While there are many hatcheries all around North America willing to sell fish for your pond, it’s not always easy to find fingerlings or eggs for perch specifically, everywhere in the country.

If you are able to obtain young perch, they’ll likely arrive in a bag filled with water. It’s always a good idea to introduce them to their new home while still in their original water, and then after several minutes allow the new water to mix with theirs and eventually remove the bag altogether.

How Many Perch Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

There are several factors that will determine how many perch can be successfully raised in an enclosed containment system environment, but a good rule of thumb would be no more than 2500 fingerling perch per 1000 gallons of water.

Remember that fish will grow, so if you put young perch at that stocking rate into your pond, there will be too many fish for that same space as they grow.

So, if you’re looking to raise perch for food, I’d suggest nothing smaller than a 1000-gallon container (small swimming pool would do the trick) and up to 2500 fingerling perch. The tank or pool would be set up with an oxygenator, waste treatment scenario, and potentially a temperature control device.

What Do You Feed Perch in a Pond?

Adult perch feed is usually made in a pellet form and is made up of around 50% protein content and 20% fat content. This is similar to farmed trout food.

It is also known that perch are notoriously difficult to wean from the live food of their early life cycle stages to the pellet-style food of adulthood. In some cases, perch will die if they have not been trained to eat pellets.

Perch fry may have to be weaned off live food with the use of krill powder and the smallest-sized fish feeds. You’ll have to provide these options in a progressive manner (gradually decreasing the ratio of natural food). If the process isn’t done with scientific precision, it could be disastrous.

It’s best to source out this feed for higher volume purchasing. Unfortunately, there is far more availability nationwide for trout food rather than food made specifically for perch.

How Long Does it Take to Farm Perch?

Perch can be raised from either eggs or from fingerlings in around 12 – 15 months. Females are not ready to spawn for as long as 3 or even 4 years, but perch is ready to eat in as little as a year and can be left to harvest for food as long as 3 years.

The lifespan of a perch can be 10 or 11 years!

Spawning in the wild will happen in the Springtime, and a yellow perch can be harvested anywhere from 12 months to 3 years later.

The earliest advisable scenario would be to harvest in the Autumn of the second year (year after they were born) when the water is below 60ºF. This would be approximately 15 – 17 months after birth.

The process of raising perch from eggs can be complicated if you attempt to control and optimize the process during each step. Because of this, it’s advisable to simply purchase fingerlings from a hatchery.

Will Perch in a Pond Reproduce?

Perch living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the stage of reproduction. However, it’s important to note that perch will only spawn once per year in a natural pond environment.

In that scenario, you would then collect the eggs from the vegetation upon which the eggs were deposited by spawning perch, and then start the incubation process indoors in a controlled environment.

To maximize the number of fingerlings per year, commercial perch aquaculture operations will employ a process indoors whereby 4 spawnings per year are obtained.

If spawning in the “wild” (or your backyard aquaculture pool), the females (ready to spawn in 3 or 4 years) will spawn once. But, in order to facilitate successful spawning, the water temperatures should be close to 45ºF or a bit less for at least a month in the Spring season.

In the wild (or uncontrolled pond environment), survival rates of perch fingerlings is very low because larger perch will cannibalize them. That is why separating fingerlings from adults will provide them the best chances of survival to adulthood.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Perch at Home

While raising perch in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh high-quality protein at home.

Perch will eat their young, so be aware that survival rates in the wild are very low.

By following the guidelines outlined in this brief, you can enjoy delicious fish while helping support local economies by farming responsibly. All it takes is some dedication, effort, and knowledge of farming practices to make your dream of farming perch come true! Good luck!

References:

1. https://www.howtoaquaponic.com/fish/yellow-perch-aquaponics/
2. https://freshwater-aquaculture.extension.org/yellow-perch-aquaculture/
3. https://pondinformer.com/perch-feeding-guide/
4. https://thefishsite.com/articles/species-profile-yellow-perch-perca-flavescens

Raising Trout at home has become a popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition, especially in light of factors such as inflation and rising food prices, along with less availability of affordable options.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming trout at home in your own tank, pond or pool that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

Can You Raise Your Own Trout?

You certainly can raise your own trout in your backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising trout can be done in a tank, pond or pool either in your backyard or even in your home.

Trout will require a fairly specific aquatic environment when it comes to water depth, clarity, oxygenation, and pH levels.

However, these are factors that are not that difficult to maintain (think pool ownership … but way easier!) and the return on your investment is significant.

Can Trout Be Farmed on Land?

Not only can trout be farmed on land, but there is a very strong trend in the world of commercial fish farming to raise trout hundreds and even thousands of miles away from any large body of water like an ocean or great lake.

The water quality is maintained and fish are not exposed to diseases, parasites, pollution, poor food quality or any negative outside influences while being exposed to superior water quality and superior food quality.

Thankfully, only about 15% of the trout consumed in America comes from outside of the country, and almost all domestic trout production is consumed within the country.

The superior quality of land-farmed local trout is exactly what you’ll have access to when you raise your own!

Can You Raise Trout in a Pond?

Trout can be raised in a pond quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth, and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for trout.

While sizes and depths can vary according to specific conditions, here is a good starting point for how to make your own trout pond:

Since trout are considered a cold-water species, they should be given a reasonable depth to which they can swim to maintain a cooler temperature than warm-water species like bass or carp.

If you live in a Northern climate that freezes in the Winter, the depth of your pond should be at least 8 feet if not a few feet deeper. Even in warmer climates, the deeper the pond, the easier it is for the trout to maintain a cooler body temperature.

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 6 – 8 feet.

This would be adequate for several dozen larger fish.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about backhoe operation and digging/construction procedures, and protocol. You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with fine concrete. Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your trout Pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently.

Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water since trout require a high level of dissolved oxygen in their water.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

Can You Raise Trout in a Swimming Pool?

Trout can be raised in a swimming pool though it’s best only to use an above-ground pool for seasonal farming rather than a permanent, four-season environment. Above-ground pools are often used in tropical locations like Hawaii or the Southern US mainland.

In-ground pools are less affected by freezing conditions (than above-ground pools) and the water temperature will fluctuate less. In-ground pools are often converted into aquaculture environments for trout farming since the switch from family swimming pool to fish pool is a small one compared to making an in-ground fish pool from scratch.

To raise PH levels, use a product like Baking Soda (PH level of 9) or crushed coral. To lower PH levels, use lemon juice or limestone.

Can You Raise Trout in a Fish Tank?

Trout can be raised in any environment that provides the right conditions for their survival and ability to thrive. A 200-gallon fish tank can be used to raise trout though anything smaller will be too small to successfully (ethically, physically) raise healthy trout long term.

A 200-gallon tank will allow for a small group of Rainbow Trout (6-12) while any larger trout or higher quantity will need a 300-600 gallon aquarium. This large size will help with the dilution of wastes without fear of pollution, and the extra space allows trout (especially in the 2-3 foot range) to experience more natural conditions instead of being crowded together in an unnatural state.

Let’s take a look at some of the important factors to consider, and conditions to maintain in your closed system trout containment area.

Because trout like moving water (which helps oxygenate the water and remove waste and stagnation), the minimum size for an aquarium or tank for a Rainbow Trout is 200 gallons.

Here’s a well-featured 220-gallon fish tank you can have right next to your kitchen for the ultimate convenience in trout-raising

If you’re considering an aquarium to raise your own trout for high-quality protein, you’ll need a few other aquarium items like a filter and oxygenator. You’ll find some great options I like right here:

An ideal range for raising trout is around 59ºF while spawning will take place closer to 50ºF. Because of these relatively cool temperatures, it’s advisable (and may be 100% necessary) for you to use a 200-gallon aquarium chiller like the one here:

Best Species of Trout to Raise

There is little doubt that Rainbow Trout and Brook Trout are the most common and popular species of trout to farm at home.

Rainbow Trout tops the list of the most durable, hardy species since it can stand to survive in water that can vary dramatically from 32ºF – 85ºF which is a far greater range than what other species prefer. It’s always a challenge to keep the water cool enough for a cold water fish in a closed and controlled environment, and the Rainbow Trout makes it as easy as possible for aquarium or pond owners to maintain their habitat.

While Rainbow Trout spawn in water that ranges from 48ºF – 58ºF, the ideal temperature for growth is anything generally below 69ºF (59ºF is ideal). When temperatures exceed 70ºF fish growth rates decrease noticeably.

The Brook Trout comes out on the top of the list of tastiest trout meat, so who wouldn’t want to grow Brook Trout if possible?

Can You Farm Trout Anywhere?

Because trout require specific water conditions (including a water temperature range of around 69ºF or lower), you’ll be able to farm them anywhere where you can be sure water temperatures won’t go above this range significantly and/or for a prolonged duration.

Best Water Conditions for Raising Trout

Trout require a water PH level of around 7.0 – 7.5 while many experts consider 7.0 to be perfect. Water PH levels can be tested using a simple pond testing kit, and if you need to adjust levels it’s best to stick to natural products when possible.

Water in a trout pond may need to be cleaned or maintained by removing much of it with a submersible pump and replacing it with clean, fresh water, but this will depend on many factors. Just keep a close eye on the quality and clarity of the water.

Trout won’t survive well in cloudy, muddy water with excessive vegetation.

Ideally, a 10-times tank turnover per hour water filtration rate is best.

Water temperatures for trout find their ideal range near 59ºF with a survival range (depending on species) as broad as 35ºF – 80ºF. Because of this relatively cool temperature (compared to bass, catfish and other warm water species), you will probably need a chiller for your aquarium.

A pond vacuum cleaner can be a useful tool for clearing debris, waste, and excess vegetation from a pond.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Trout Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A trout pool or pond will need to be oxygenated since trout (who love streams and fast-moving water) need a higher level of dissolved oxygen in the water than most other species.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How to Introduce Trout to my Pond

You can provide the environment and process for hatching eggs and raising the fry (baby trout) but it is usually far easier and less of a hassle to buy young trout or even adults.

There are numerous hatcheries all over North America willing to sell you small trout and you can pay as little as $2 per fish for small hatchlings of about 1″-5″ or $5 for a Brook or Brown trout in the 10″ range.

If the water temperature in your pond is within the range as outlined in this article, then simply allowing them to swim away from their transport bags will be sufficient.

How Many Trout Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

There are several factors that will determine how many trout can be successfully raised in an enclosed containment system environment, but a good rule of thumb would be about 300 trout in a 1-acre pond with a depth of 8 feet of fresh, moving water.

Many ponds will experience a drop in water levels during the hottest months and water clarity and oxygen levels can be negatively affected as well. This will endanger fish populations and fewer fish will be better than more in a pond experiencing such conditions.

What Do You Feed Trout in a Pond?

Trout feed is usually made in a pellet form and is made up of around 70% vegetable ingredients (proteins) and 30% raw marine ingredients from fish oil and fishmeal.

It’s best to source out this feed for higher volume purchasing. Fortunately, there is a good supply of readily available trout food nationwide.

The specifics of how to feed trout (frequency, amount, time of day, etc.) can become quite involved since water quality and temperature as well as the condition of the pond itself will dictate how much and how often you feed.

In many cases, a large, well-established pond will create enough natural food to sustain its entire trout population.

A few basic rules to get you started are:

A handful of floating pellets (up to a quart) for about 100 trout 8-10 inches in size, once a day should do the trick. This will result in good-sized trout at the end of the season, ready to eat.

It’s helpful to feed at the same time (early morning or early evening) and from the same location, which will train the fish to be there and ensure all the pellets are eaten.

It is possible to overfeed, but this is not advantageous. The best practice is to feed until the “boiling” water stops and fish are not 100% full. Foraging for natural food is usually adequate to top them up and ensure they are healthy.

Too much food will result in the fish using metabolic energy to digest, but if the environment is low oxygen, it will also require the fish’s metabolic energy to process as much oxygen as possible, so both low oxygen and high food content will result in unhealthy trout populations.

How Long Does it Take to Farm Trout?

Trout can be raised from either eggs or as near adults. From eggs, trout will be ready to harvest at around 9 months. Of course, adults can be harvested immediately while their life span is up to around 7 years.

Average life spans are around 5 years while some trout can live over 10 years.

The process of raising trout from eggs can be complicated if you attempt to control and optimize the process during each step. You’ll have to rinse and clean a tank continuously, add a styrofoam top to help insulate the water from light penetration, add gravel to the tank, and much more.

Here’s a link to an article that outlines the detailed specifics of each step of the trout egg incubation process if you’re interested in this approach.

It can be burdensome to oversee this process but it may suit some people just fine. As for me, I’ll go with the purchase of fingerlings or older.

Will Trout in a Pond Reproduce?

Trout living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the stage of reproduction. However, I have found this to not always be the case. Sometimes trout will not spawn at all in a pond and it’s best to re-stock fish every few years, though this can be an expensive process.

To maximize the odds of having your trout spawn in your pond or pool, you’ll want to be sure the water clarity is high, the temperature is cool (50ºF or a bit lower for spawning), there is a moving water inlet (ie. stream or artificial injection of recirculated water) and that the area near the flowing water is relatively shallow 6″ – 18″ and has a gravel bed.

These conditions best simulate a natural spawning stream and will increase your odds of not having to pay $500 or more for another brood of 200 small trout every year.

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Trout at Home

While raising trout in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh seafood at home.

Raising trout is probably one of the most challenging (time and resources) of all the different fish you can raise (like catfish, bass, trout, etc.). However, if you choose the right trout (Rainbow is most hearty and adaptable) with the right setup, nutrition, and methods for harvesting, farming your own trout can be both sustainable and cost-effective.

By following the guidelines outlined in this brief, you can enjoy delicious fish while helping support local economies by farming responsibly. All it takes is some dedication, effort, and knowledge of farming practices to make your dream of farming trout come true! Good luck!

References:

1. https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/small-scale-trout-farming-zmaz83sozshe/
2. https://thefishsite.com/articles/cultured-aquaculture-species-rainbow-trout
3. https://www.wikihow.com/Raise-Trout
4. https://www.hyonahilltrout.com/faq.htm

Raising salmon at home has become a popular option for those looking for sustainable farming methods. Homesteading and farming your own fish is an attractive proposition, especially in areas where there are limited sources of wild-caught salmon.

In a world where we see increasing food costs, decreasing natural food sources, and a decrease in food availability and variety, it’s encouraging to be able to provide your own high-quality protein on a predictable and reliable schedule despite food price increases and supply chain problems.

With the right practices and techniques, you can successfully produce delicious, healthy fish with minimal effort and cost.

In this article, I’ll outline the basic steps required for farming salmon at home in your own tank, pond or pool that can help you enjoy fresh seafood while helping sustain your household and even local economies.

Can You Raise Your Own Salmon?

You certainly can raise your own salmon in your own backyard with a relatively low start-up cost and few barriers to entry. Raising salmon can be done in a tank, pond or pool either in your backyard or even in your home.

Salmon will require a fairly specific aquatic environment when it comes to water depth, clarity, oxygenation, and PH levels.

However, these are factors that are not that difficult to maintain (think pool ownership … but way easier!) and the return on your investment is significant.

That said, Salmon is arguably the most time and resource-intensive fish to raise in your own tank or pond, so there will be factors to which you’ll need to give close attention and scrutiny.

Can Salmon Be Farmed on Land?

Not only can salmon be farmed on land, but there is a very strong trend in the world of commercial salmon farming to raise salmon hundreds and even thousands of miles away from any large body of water like an ocean or great lake.

Closed environment (aka. “closed containment system”) salmon farming is the process by which salmon are raised without direct contact with any outside natural body of water.

The water quality is maintained and fish are not exposed to diseases, parasites, pollution, poor food quality or any negative outside influences while being exposed to superior water quality and superior food quality.

Land-farmed salmon is sold at a premium price to either wild-caught salmon or salmon farmed in the ocean.

The superior quality of land-farmed salmon is exactly what you’ll have access to when you raise your own!

Can Salmon Live in Fresh Water?

Salmon in North America are known as “anadromous”. That is, they have the ability to move from fesh water to salt water at different stages of life. Many Salmon are born in freshwater streams, swim to the ocean to live most of their lives and then return to freshwater streams to reproduce and then die.

Because they are so adaptable, some species have learned to live their entire lives in freshwater as we see in the great lakes and many large rivers throughout the world. The best-known anadromous Salmon are Coho Salmon and Atlantic Salmon.

These Salmon very often live entirely in freshwater during their entire lifespan.

Can You Raise Salmon in a Pond?

Salmon can be raised in a pond quite successfully as long as water quality, quantity, depth and conditions are provided and maintained to the recommended specifications for Salmon.

While sizes and depths can vary according to specific conditions, here is a good starting point for how to make your own Salmon pond:

Since Salmon are considered a cold-water species, they should be given a reasonable depth to which they can swim to maintain a cooler temperature than warm-water species like bass or carp.

If you live in a Northern climate that freezes in the Winter, the depth of your pond should be at least 8 feet if not a few feet deeper. Even in warmer climates, the deeper the pond, the easier it is for the Salmon to maintain a cooler body temperature.

As far as the area or dimensions of the pond are concerned, the larger the pond, the better. It’s not good to have such a small pond that fish can hardly move. A good suggested size would be that of a medium-sized swimming pool of around 450 feet as a surface area (approx. 15′ x 30′) and an average depth of 5-6 feet.

This would be adequate for 250 – 300 fish.

To make your own pond, it’s best to have some knowledge about using a backhoe, digging procedures and construction protocol. You’ll have to contact the local authorities to find out if there are any restrictions to making a pond as well as any potential problems with pre-existing buried cables.

After you’ve dug the pond and finessed the shape and base, walls, etc. it’s best to line the dirt floor and walls with a fine concrete. Mason’s concrete is a good example, but nearly any concrete will do.

As the next step, some suggest lining the concrete (especially if it’s roughly finished with stones and other rough protrusions) with landscape fabric. The fabric will be a barrier between the rough concrete surface and the next (and final) layer.

The final layer of your Salmon Pond will be a pond or tank liner to hold all the water efficiently.

Once you’ve completed the pond itself, you’ll need a way to add oxygen to the water since Salmon require a high level of dissolved oxygen in their water.

The best way to do that is by using either an aeration kit or a pond pump which is used to create an artificial waterfall that oxygenates the water.

PRO TIP – When filling the pond with a hose, but sure to allow the water to gently enter the pond rather than blasting a concentrated flow in one place. The concentrated stream can damage the thin concrete layer under the liner.

You can let it gently seep in from a hose on the edge of the pond until there is enough water to shoot it directly onto the surface.

Can You Raise Salmon in a Swimming Pool?

Salmon can be raised in a swimming pool though it’s best only to use an above-ground pool for seasonal farming rather than a permanent, four-season environment. Above-ground pools are often used in tropical locations like Hawaii or the Southern US mainland.

In-ground pools are less affected by freezing conditions (than above-ground pools) and the water temperature will fluctuate less. In-ground pools are often converted into aquaculture environments for salmon farming since the switch from family swimming pool to fish pool is a small one compared to making an in-ground fish pool from scratch.

Can You Raise Salmon in a Fish Tank?

Salmon can be raised in any environment that provides the right conditions for their survival and ability to thrive. A fish tank can be used to raise salmon though most tanks are far too small to successfully (ethically, physically) raise healthy Salmon.

Let’s take a look at some of the important factors to consider, and conditions to maintain in your closed system Salmon containment area.

Best Species of Salmon to Raise

There are six main Salmon species in North America. They are the Pacific Salmon, Coho Salmon, Sockeye Salmon, Chinook Salmon, Pink Salmon and the Atlantic Salmon.

Because salmon are able to adapt to both salt water and fresh water (anadromous), they can adapt to live primarily or totally in freshwater (especially if they are selectively bred to do so).

Atlantic Salmon and Coho Salmon are the 2 most commonly farmed Salmon because of their ability to survive in diverse conditions.

Can You Farm Salmon Anywhere?

Because Salmon require specific water conditions (including a water temperature range of around 45ºF or lower), you’ll be able to farm them anywhere where you can be sure water temperatures won’t go above this range significantly and/or for a prolonged duration.

Best Water Conditions for Raising Salmon

Salmon require a water PH level of around 6.5 – 8.5 while many experts consider 7.0 to be perfect. Water PH levels can be tested using a simple pond testing kit, and if you need to adjust levels it’s best to stick to natural products when possible.

To raise PH levels, use a product like Baking Soda (PH level of 9) or crushed coral. To lower PH levels, use lemon juice or limestone.

Water in a Salmon pond may need to be cleaned or maintained by removing much of it with a submersible pump and replacing it with clean, fresh water, but this will depend on many factors. Just keep a close eye on the quality and clarity of the water.

Salmon won’t survive well in cloudy, muddy water with excessive vegetation.

A pond vacuum cleaner can be a useful tool for clearing debris, waste and excess vegetation.

Do I Need to Oxygenate a Salmon Pond, Pool, or Tank?

A Salmon pool or pond will need to be oxygenated since Salmon (who love streams and fast-moving water) need a higher level of dissolved oxygen in the water than most other species.

There are many ways to oxygenate the water, but one of the nicest and easiest ways is to install an artificial waterfall that is fed by a water pump from the pool. One of the better pond pumps from Alpine is pictured below.

How to Introduce Salmon to my Pond

You can provide the environment and process for hatching eggs and raising the fry (baby salmon) but it is usually far easier and less of a hassle to buy young salmon or even adults.

While there are many hatcheries all around North America willing to sell fish for your pond, it’s not always easy to find fingerlings (young Salmon) or eggs everywhere in the country.

Often salmon eggs for hatching or fingerlings are found easier along the Northwest or Northeast coasts of the U.S. and Canada, while those with ponds in the central part of the continent and Southern regions will be better served by other species that do not mind warm, shallow water.

If you are able to obtain young Salmon, they’ll likely arrive in a bag filled with water. It’s always a good idea to introduce them to their new home while still in their original water, and then after several minutes allow the new water to mix with theirs and eventually remove the bag altogether.

How Much Salmon Can I Raise in my Pool, Pond, or Tank?

There are several factors that will determine how much Salmon can be successfully raised in an enclosed containment system environment, but a good rule of thumb would be no more than 20 kg of fish per 1000 liters of water.

Remember that fish will grow, so if you put young salmon at that stocking rate into your pond, there will be too many fish for that same space as they grow.

So, accounting for an average of around 11 lbs per Salmon at the time of harvest, a 1000-liter tank can support 4 adult fish. A 16×32 in-ground pool with 80,000 liters of water can be home to over 300 adult Salmon.

What Do You Feed Salmon in a Pond?

Salmon feed is usually made in a pellet form and is made up of around 70% vegetable ingredients (proteins) and 30% raw marine ingredients from fish oil and fishmeal.

It’s best to source out this feed for higher volume purchasing. Unfortunately, there is far more availability nationwide for trout food rather than salmon feed. However, there are some good retailers that provide high-quality sport fish food which works for Salmon.

How Long Does it Take to Farm Salmon?

Salmon can be raised from either eggs or as near adults. From eggs, Salmon will be ready to harvest at around 2 years. Of course, adults can be harvested immediately while their life span is up to 7 years.

Average life spans are around 5 years while some Steelhead Trout can live over 10 years.

The process of raising Salmon from eggs can be complicated if you attempt to control and optimize the process during each step. You’ll have to rinse and clean a tank continuously, add a styrofoam top to help insulate the water from light penetration, add gravel to the tank, and much more.

Then, once the Salmon hatch (into something called “alevin”, you have to wait a specific period of time for the alevin to eat their yolks before moving them to a fry tank where they can begin their first regular feeding.

Then you’ll move them to yet another tank for another 5 months while they grow through the fingerlings stage and move on to the smoltification stage, etc.

You’ll also have to be careful to not introduce fingerlings or even smolters into a tank with adults as Salmon are predatory fish and will often eat the young of their own species.

It can be burdensome to oversee this process but it may suit some people just fine. As for me, I’ll go with the purchase of fingerlings or older.

Will Salmon in a Pond Reproduce?

Salmon living in a pool or pond will eventually reproduce once they reach the stage of reproduction. However, it’s important to note that adult salmon will consume young Salmon, and pouches of Salmon eggs are one of the best baits for anglers to use in order to catch an adult Salmon.

Because of this, it’s wise to separate eggs into their own protected environment and take them through the various stages from incubation to smoltification (the “young adult” period when a Salmon typically moves from the stream where they were born into the brackish estuaries where fresh water meets ocean salt water).

Key Takeaways – Raising Your Own Salmon at Home

While raising salmon in a pond or pool is not for everyone, it can be an exciting and rewarding way to produce fresh seafood at home.

Raising Salmon is probably the most challenging (time and resources) of all the different fish you can raise (like catfish, bass, trout, etc.). However, with the right setup, nutrition, and methods for harvesting, farming your own Salmon can be both sustainable and cost-effective.

By following the guidelines outlined in this brief, you can enjoy delicious fish while helping support local economies by farming responsibly. All it takes is some dedication, effort, and knowledge of farming practices to make your dream of farming salmon come true! Good luck!

References:

1. https://www.wikihow.com/Raise-Salmon-in-a-Pond#:~:text=You%20can%20raise%20salmon%20right,harvest%20them%20whenever%20you%20like.
2. https://www.takemefishing.org/blog/september-2019/are-freshwater-salmon-and-saltwater-salmon/
3. https://www.growertoday.com/raising-salmon-at-home/
4. https://salmonfacts.com/what-eats-salmon/what-does-salmon-feed-contain/

While it’s not that difficult to make a contraption that can serve as a rudimentary greenhouse, it’s quite another issue altogether to create a decent-sized growing area that won’t rip, tear, blow away or break under heavy snow conditions.

This season, I could not afford an actual greenhouse, but I was able to cobble together some parts that anyone can get a hold of and make a “greenhouse” that can grow about 30 kale plants, is separated from the ground, and can withstand heavy wind and snow.

The best greenhouse I’ve ever built for almost no money at all is a circular metal ring (cut from a grain hopper) that was 10 feet in diameter. I filled it with dirt as high as I could (nearly up to its 3-foot wall height) and then covered it with a tattered, old heavy plastic that was so beaten up, I had to double it. I supported it in the middle with a 2×4 plank hammered into the dirt, and secured it around the edges of the ring with a ratcheting strap.

What is the Cheapest Way to Build a Greenhouse?

A very inexpensive version of a greenhouse can be built by stretching and securing at least one layer of medium-heavy translucent plastic sheeting over a frame of some kind typically made of plastic, metal or wood.

When a greenhouse is very small, it’s often called a cold frame and can be as small as a couple of square feet in area.

However, most people will not be totally satisfied with a cold frame given its limited growing space. However, it is quite possible to build multiple, larger cold frames to accommodate more growing scenarios.

Cold frames are relatively inexpensive, but not as inexpensive as my much larger “greenhouse”. I call it a greenhouse because it seems a bit big to classify it as a cold frame, and I can (and do) walk around in it.

Cold frames are most often built with glass or plexiglass and a frame to hold each panel of glass. This can take lots of time and skill to build, not to mention the cost of quality glass or hard plastic.

Another even less expensive way of making a greenhouse is to simply stretch some plastic (minimum of 4 mil but 6 mil is better) over a frame (most often bowed ribs of heavy wire or PVC plastic).

This method is typically used to cover a 4×6 or 4×8 foot raised garden bed. The problem with this option is that you will need to build a series of bases on each side of the garden and then engineer the arches to fit into those bases. You can also buy kits to help with the process, like the one below:

What’s the Easiest Way to Build a Greenhouse?

The easiest way to build a decent-sized greenhouse is to use a metal ring that is at least 8 feet in diameter. This would offer a growing area of 50 square feet which is the same as a rectangular garden of 5 x 10 feet. However, most large raised beds are no larger than 4 x 8 feet.

Even if you do use a rectangular bed, you’ll still need to find a way to suspend a plastic sheet over the growing area while offering enough room. You’ll also need to find a secure way of attaching the sheet to either the ground or the raised bed walls.

On the other hand, if you use a metal ring as I have, the advantages are numerous and significant when compared to rectangular raised beds.

Benefits of a Circular, Steel Raised-Bed

My circular metal raised bed offers me a few advantages that are not typically possible with any other inexpensive greenhouse build.

1 – If your ring is around 3′ tall (which is not difficult to procure) it will allow for a far greater variety of produce

Your raised ring bed is almost sure to be taller than a cedar square raised garden, and that means that you’ll be able to grow deep root vegetables like carrots and potatoes much more effectively than with a standard raised bed of 12 inches (which uses partially added soil and partially native soil beneath the bed).

2 – The ring (if taken from a re-purposed grain hopper – which is typical and recommended) will allow you to use a ratcheting strap to firmly secure the plastic sheet even in gale-force winds

A ratcheting strap is not a viable option for securing a plastic sheet around a square or rectangular garden (or any other shape other than round or perhaps oval).

3 – A round bed will allow you to use a simple, single support to keep the plastic off of your plants

Unlike a rectangular bed which necessarily needs a series of durable hoops to hold the plastic off the plants, a round bed only really needs one in the center.

It’s quite possible to build a more elaborate system of several crossing arches to support the plastic on a circular bed, but it’s a lot easier to do what I did.

I simply hammered a metal fence post into the center of the bed. Then I attached (with screws) a 4-foot long 2×4 plank to the metal post so that the 2×4 protruded higher than the metal post.

That was all I needed, but because we have very strong winds, I decided to use 3 more 2×4 scraps to support the center post by just jamming the into the side of the bed and against the center post.

I then capped the 2×4 with another section of 2×4 (about 6 inches long) and rounded all the edges so they would not tear the overlaid plastic.

Then, I simply stretched 2 layers of plastic (because each layer was so badly worn through with holes) over the upright 2×4 and secured the edges with the ratcheting strap.

THAT’S IT!

4 – A steel bed will last a minimum of 25 years, but more likely – 40 – 100 years!

Cedar is the only other good choice for a raised bed, but its lifespan is closer to 10 years, while anything else like cinder blocks or Home Depot pine/fir framing lumber, will last only 1 – 3 years (at most) before rotting or cracking (especially in a cold, northern climate).

5 – Steel rings are already made – no construction required!

Having a ready-made raised bed can be challenging to transport (though it’s very possible with a 5×8 trailer)

6 – incredible growing area

In my 8-foot raised bed, I can plant over 300 cloves of garlic (assuming a growing area of about the size of a man’s fist). In Ontario money, that’s well over $1000 worth of garlic! Yes, my garlic is very large (heads are about 3″ – 3.5″ in diameter) and they sell for close to $5 a head in the local markets in Hamilton, Burlington and Oakville, Ontario. Talk about a return on investment!!!

7 – Awesome value if you have a big trailer and an angle grinder

I recently found a couple of fully-functional grain hoppers on Kijiji, and while the initial price of $500 seems steep, consider this; the hopper was 25 feet tall which means it can offer you 8 rings. Each ring would be very sturdy, last forever and it would be 11.5′ in diameter. That gives you 824 square feet of growing area.

You can do the cutting yourself with an angle grinder (with steel cutter blade) if the thickness of the steel is less than 1/4″ which it is on any grain hopper I’ve seen.

Consider also that just 1 of the 8 rings can yield enough produce to pay for the whole thing! Look at point #6 above where I was able to grow over $1K of garlic in a ring that was only 8 feet in diameter. Imagine what 8 rings that are 11.5 feet in diameter could produce!

Pitfalls of using a round, steel raised bed Greenhouse

Creating a raised bed round, steel greenhouse is not a perfect solution for either a raised bed garden or a greenhouse.

The biggest problem with this option is finding a round, metal ring. I was able to easily find one on Canada’s version of Craigslist (Kijiji) and on Facebook Marketplace. However, because it is a specialized item made from cut sections of a decommissioned grain hopper, it may not always be available for purchase secondhand.

The next issue is that because it is sure to be taller than any normal raised bed garden, you’ll need more soil to make it useable. While it’s not technically necessary to add more soil than a normal raised bed garden, it is recommended for the sake of easy use of the garden and for the ability to grow plants or vegetables with a large root system.

I can’t finish this section without pointing out that it’s quite possible you’ll pay more for your ring(s) if it’s new. I prefer used whenever possible because it will still outlast me!

Unless you devise an easy way to access the inside of the greenhouse, you’ll have to loosen the ratchet straps and peel back the plastic each time you want to harvest a few kale leaves!

As far as actual cost, it will vary based on a lot of factors, but consider my situation; I live in Ontario, Canada where everything is more expensive (other than health care out-of-pocket expenses) than it is in the U.S.

I paid $50 for 2 large steel rings that measured 8 feet in diameter. That cost INCLUDED DELIVERY from a farm located about 15 miles away. In just one ring, I grew over $1200 of garlic in one season. I’d say that’s a good return on investment eh?

Another simple and quick option (though much smaller) is a fire ring (pictured below). This one costs $70 but it’s 4 feet across. That’s not a bad deal and it won’t even be a full growing season in the Southern U.S. before the cost of the vegetables you grow yourself will exceed the price you paid for the ring and the dirt!

My DIY Greenhouse / Cold Frame on the cheap!

I filled my 3′ tall grain-hopper cut ring with about 2.5 feet of good growing soil. I mixed in vermiculite to add volume so it’s almost full to the top. By the way, I have a full garden of both lettuce and kale in January … IN CANADA!

Can a Greenhouse Stay Warm in Winter?

A greenhouse absolutely can stay significantly warmer in the Winter than the environment outside the greenhouse. In fact, even with my inexpensive, small, unheated greenhouse cover (with holes), I was able to keep it at least 15 degrees warmer but as much as 30 degrees warmer on warm, windless, sunny winter days.

Having said this, please note that in the dead of night with no sun shining and no wind blowing, it’s only a couple of degrees warmer inside than out.

However, I’m speaking just about my junky, cheap unit. If you get an actual small greenhouse, you’ll have it significantly warmer than outside, especially if you add a heater for a few hours a day – but that’s a whole other article!

Is An Unheated Greenhouse Worth it?

An unheated greenhouse can still keep the temperatures anywhere from 5-10 degrees (F) warmer than outside. However, if you take a large pail (or 3) with a lid and paint it black, and fill it about 3/4 full of water, you can increase temperatures up to 25 degrees warmer than outside in the Winter.

The black buckets absorb sunlight which slightly heats the water. The slightly warmer water then releases heat in the middle of the night.

I call this an “unheated” greenhouse since it does not use any costly energy-sucking heating device. So, yes, an “unheated” greenhouse CAN be a HUGE advantage over planting outdoors or just giving up growing altogether in the Winter.

One last thing; if you double the plastic on your DIY steel ring greenhouse, you can vastly increase efficiency or warmth retention. I did not have a good way of separating my 2 layers, but if I did, that would help even more!

Greenhouse on the Cheap – Main Takeaways

Do your very best to get a hold of a used grain hopper or 2′-4′ tall sections of a round grain hopper bin for raised bed gardens.

A simple post in the center of the garden (3′-4′ tall) will support the plastic cover(s) and a ratcheting strap will secure the plastic to the garden bed.

This scenario will allow for a 5-10 degree difference (and way more in the direct sun) in the Winter and allow for leafy green vegetables to grow all year long!

If you can throw in a few black, water-filled pails into the greenhouse interior, you’ll further raise temperatures for an even heartier crop.

The TOTAL COST for me? $50 per 8-foot diameter and 3′ tall raised bed with greenhouse cover – including extra soil for the deep bed and the garden itself – delivered to my yard!

The internet is packed to overflowing with fishing tips for beginners and just about every other kind of fishing tip you can imagine. Most are similar to other tips and while some are great tips, I’ll let you know of a few tips that are foundational to catching big (or any) fish, but most anglers don’t mention them much!

I’ll let you in on a few tips that few anglers will reveal, and that come from over 40 years of fishing lakes and rivers in Ontario, Canada!

Tip #1 – ALWAYS LOOK FOR CURRENT

When I was in my teens and twenties, I was a fishing fanatic! I thought I knew a lot but I didn’t know a blessed thing about the issue of current. I caught most of my fair share of bass and walleye while trolling along cliffs or shallows in the early evening in a quiet bay or silent shoreline.

To be sure, that is still a valid and effective method of angling, but once I discovered that almost all species in a lake (other than lake trout in the middle of Summer) like to hang out in obvious currents in relatively shallow water, I leveled up my game for sure!

Current is crucial to all species since it provides oxygen, and brings food to them without them needing to spend lots of energy searching for it!

Current can be created by a number of factors including wind, tide, and river conditions.

In fast-moving rivers with shallow water, most species like to hang out just to the side of the fast water in a quiet spot/pool/eddie. These locations allow fish to stay relatively stationary while allowing the food (in the stream) to travel past them so they need only move when they see food instead of using energy prowling the river for food.

Very often, the dominant or larger fish will be positioned in such a way as to get the first crack at any new food coming downstream, so a well-placed lure (suited to the species of your prey) floating past quiet water will often induce a strike.

Also, when wind plays a roll in changing current (as it often does in larger lakes like the great lakes), fish will always be facing INTO the current. No one I’m sure, has ever observed a fish waiting for food while facing downstream of the current.

Finally, if it’s not already clear, one of the very best places to fish for a variety of species (but most often trout, bass, walleye, pike and panfish) is in the pool at the base of a set of large rapids or waterfall. Where a river empties into a lake is arguably the most productive location for fishing anywhere at any time!

Tip #2 – LOVE THE WIND

I, for one, am typically not a big fan of windy weather on the water. I tend to fish from a solo canoe that weighs less than 30 lbs and I also love my fishing kayak which barely holds me! Windy weather can make it at least annoying if not dangerous for me when I’m fishing from those small boats.

That said, a small chop is quite bearable, and can very often bring success when other techniques fail.

Most long-time anglers have heard of a ‘walleye chop” which refers to a bit of a wavy surface condition, and this surface condition is also excellent for pike, muskie and many other species.

Wind necessarily creates moving water which can create a current where one did not exist before (see Tip #1). The current is often not that strong, but it’s enough to stir up plankton upon which small baitfish feed.

This, in turn brings larger fish to feed on the smaller ones. In addition, the chop allows for some cover from predators like birds.

Even large predators like big pike and muskie feel more comfortable coming into shallows if there is a chop that hides them from anything outside of the water.

Lapping water along the shore can provide lots of food like dislodged insects or crayfish, and if the shoreline is near a weed bed that happens to be near deeper water, you have the virtually perfect scenario for pike and muskie as well as walleye.

Tip #3 – DON’T BE STUBBORN

As a self-declared creature of habit, I tend to want to “stick with what has always worked”.

For example, a fishing friend of mine owns a cottage up on Dollars Lake in North Central Ontario. He has always (or so it seems) had success with a pink plastic worm fished in the Texas-rigged style but without a lead weight.

He just lets it gently flutter to the bottom and then twitches it slowly back. If largemouth are around, they almost always hit it, but then, there are days that all our “best” spots are producing nothing at all. Are the fish gone?

Sometimes I switch a lure and find no action which then leads me to think there simply aren’t any fish – otherwise they would hit the pink worm.

Well, I’ve had enough experience now to know that just because the bass don’t like my pink worm or my spinnerbait, that doesn’t mean they won’t hit another lure.

On one occasion while fishing a shallow bay in the mid-morning on very quiet water, I could see several big largemouth bass cruising the shallows about 15 feet from shore. My pink worm did nothing, but because I could see them, I was encouraged to keep trying other baits.

I tried a buzzbait and that actually scared them! I tried a different colored worm (black) and they seemed to not even see it. I tried a white worm with the same result.

Undeterred, I was down to the last style of lure I had in my box, which was a non-jointed, 5-inch gold floating Rapala. That plug barely hit the water before the first bass slammed it and I was able to bring it aboard.

In the next 5 minutes, I was able to catch 2 more 5-lb largemouth with the same lure.

Lesson? Don’t stick with what always works if it doesn’t work! Bring a wide variety of colors and styles of lures and bait – you’ll be thankful for sure!

Tip #4 – FAKE IT TO MAKE IT

This tip is one that I use only on occasion, because it makes me feel like I’m lying or being deceitful. However, it’s not an ethical thing really since the only consequence is that a stranger might not catch all your bass or walleye!

Here’s how it works; when you’re scouting new locations and you find a drop-off that seems to hold a ton of suspended Smallies for example, should you mark it with a buoy?

Nowadays you can use your GPS, which is probably the best and easiest method, but sometimes it’s easier just to plop a small floating plastic container tied to a heavy fishing line to mark the general spot you’ve found.

Unfortunately, many anglers don’t employ proper protocol, and they’ll come zooming into your area that was just marked. They think this looks like an open invitation, and sometimes they even bump boats!

If this happens, I have no problem using my “fake location” technique. I would find my sweet spot and then instead of dropping a marker buoy there, I would orient myself to the area and move away from that spot by 100 yards or so and drop the buoy.

I would know where my actual spot is by lining up my buoy with a cottage or shoreline object. So, there’s no way any visitors to the area would know my “fake out” technique, and they’ll go and fish right beside the buoy at the wrong location.

Yes, deceptive, but somehow I don’t feel a moral transgress on this one!

Tip #5 – NEVER POINT YOUR ROD AT A FISH YOU HAVEN’T LANDED YET

This one should be a given, but my heart tells me someone reading this has never heard it! Here’s the deal; When you’re fighting a fish after setting the hook, there are 2 things you CANNOT do if you want to increase your chances of landing the prize.

The first thing you cannot do is let your line go slack during the retrieval process. If you do, that is the same as presenting the fish with an ideal opportunity to shake the hook. It’s exactly what you would do if you WANTED to free the fish.

You need to keep the line tight enough so there’s always some pressure on the fish’s lip or gill. That will increase your chances of landing it.

The second thing you must not do is to point your rod tip directly at the fish in the water, whether it’s close to the boat or far away (as you might if you were getting ready to pull up on your rod and you just reeled in some slack).

If you point your rod tip at the fish, the rod itself cannot act as a buffer to slow down a fighting fish as he makes his explosive attempt to escape. If you have your rod tip held high and the fish takes off, your rod will bend as it gives the ability for the fish to swim.

If you point your rod tip at the fish, one quick flick of his body or head will often snap the line because the rod is not acting as a buffer or shock to the fish’s explosive run.

Tip #6 – PATIENCE ON THE SET

This is perhaps one of the biggest challenges young anglers have to deal with. Setting the hook is the act of pulling your rod tip high in the air and briskly yanking it to “set” the hook in the fish’s mouth. If you don’t set it, you are again, inviting the fish to shake loose the hook which was never really embedded in his jaw to begin with.

Setting the hook needs to be done in both deep-water fishing and surface fishing. There’s no doubt that surface fishing is exciting and dramatic, but it is especially difficult to set the hook in the mouth of a fish that just launched itself out of the water to attack its top-water prey.

Part of the difficulty is that often a predator will not try to “eat” a mouse or frog on the surface of the water. Instead, his strategy is to disable the prey so it can be easily eaten or swallowed in the correct way – with the head going first down the throat of the predator.

So, what can be done to maximize your chances of landing a monster that attacks a surface lure?

Well, the first thing we need to determine is what 95% of anglers do wrong before we can correct the problem. Most fishermen will see a huge splash on the surface and immediately yank the line in a mostly futile attempt to “set” the hook.

The problem is that the hooks are not in the fish’s mouth!

Instead, it’s a known quantity that anglers should probably wait for a full 2 – 4 seconds before setting the hook. That short time gives the predator the ability to feel like he’s disabled his prey and to circle around for the final grab.

Another great method of determining when to set the hook is to do nothing on the initial attack, and then wait until you “feel” the tug of the line. This could be several seconds after the first attack, and that’s the time to set the hook!

Tip #7 – UNDERSTAND AND EXPLOIT YOUR STRENGTH

Here’s a very under-reported issue when it comes to fishing techniques and tips that you can take advantage of.

If I was a betting man, I’d say that you favor a specific angling technique and you may not even know it. I, for one, am very well aware of mine favored approach.

When you hit the water, whether it’s a lake you know well or a new one that you’re scouting, do you “run and gun” the boat to various bays and structures, etc. using crankbaits, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, and the like?

Lots of tournament anglers employ this approach and it can be very successful.

I don’t own a bass boat and when I go fishing with my canoe or angling kayak, I like to experience the environment with the call of a loon, the dripping of water off my paddle blade, the scurry of a chipmunk on an old campsite fish-cleaning table and even the throaty squawk of a blue heron.

What does this have to do with fishing techniques? Well, since I can run and gun with no motorboat, I have discovered that I have become “that guy” who fishes an area very slowly and methodically. I often use a plastic worm with no weight, and I let gravity take it down to the bottom.

I then slowly twitch it to just below the surface (usually near shoreline structures in the Summer). This is a good technique for any bass in the area, but it works for anything in the region including Pike, Muskie, Trout, Panfish, Rock Bass, Crappie, and even Bowfin!

If you’re near moving water and you’re fishing way up in the far North of Ontario, this technique works just as well for Walleye.

As you might expect, I have one fishing buddy (we don’t go out together too often for obvious reasons) who loves to cover lots of water because he owns a 20-foot Lund aluminum deep-V fishing boat with a 225 HP motor! I think I understand!

He has 5 or 6 rods ready on the deck with different baits and he uses them liberally. Usually he completes 3 casts to my 1.

As if that wasn’t bad enough, I’ve recently discovered a technique I absolutely love, and I get the most enjoyment from it compared to any other technique.

I cast a floating plug like a Rapala in an open area within a weedbed and I make sure the surface path to the boat is open water. I then wait for as long as 30 – 60 seconds after the first cast before I twitch the plug ever-so-gently.

Then, I wait for random periods of time between twitches, and I’ll mix in a quick jerk and fast retrieve for about 3 seconds before I let the lure surface again and sit there for another minute. This technique is also known as “deadsticking”.

This technique drives my fishing partner insane, but he understands why I do it and he sees the success I’ve had using it!

Tip #8 – VARY YOUR RETRIEVE SPEED

This tip is kind of related to a part of Tip #7 as it relates to changing lure retrieval speed, but I feel like this needs its own section.

I learned this tip way back when I was ready Field and Stream magazines from a neighbor’s old stash back in 1979.

Successful Musky anglers know a technique that involves retrieving a lure with a stop-and-go action and then plunging the rod tip into the water at the side of the boat and making a huge figure-8 shape which drags the lure behind the rod tip by about 3 feet.

This erratic action often entices a predator to finally grab the lure.

A similar concept is used by both fast-casting anglers and slow/methodical fishermen alike. It involves retrieving your lure at a steady pace and then suddenly either slowing it down and jerking it a bit like an injured prey, OR speeding it up as you approach the boat which often excites the bass or pike to attack before the prey escapes!

Tip #9 – LEARN TO LOCATE FISH

Most anglers I know will just fish where it’s convenient for them. If it’s from shore, they’ll sit where they can be close to the water, maybe out of the wind where there’s a nice view!

Unfortunately, these factors often do not provide the best habitat or locations for fish.

The question of where fish are located at any given time is a huge one and can vary based on species, time of year, water clarity, water temperature, current action, lighting conditions, and a whole lot more.

I’ll just generalize by telling you that fish most often like underwater structures like fallen trees, rocks, docks, weeds, and more. Most anglers know this, but not as many know that fish also love transition points.

For example, the place where a river or stream transitions into a lake or pool; or where a murky, watery environment with lots of lily pad stems transitions into a lighter surface or “air” with big, round lily pads on the top of the water; or even where penetrating sunlight stops and darkness begins.

This last environment can be especially productive since predators can see smaller prey fish above in the sunlight, but they themselves cannot be seen in the dark depths.

Finally, if you combine multiple factors into one scenario, you’ve got an ideal fishing environment. For example, in a dark pool where a river enters a lake, there may be penetrating sunlight to a specific depth, and there may be a “walleye chop” on the surface just beside a series of submerged trees! WOW!

Tip #10 – USE A STINGER

To sting or not to sting? Many seasoned anglers don’t even know what a stinger is so it likely won’t be used. If you did use it, over the long run you’ll increase your chances of landing a fish.

A stinger is simply an additional hook that is attached to the last hook on a standard lure, whether it’s a plug, spinner or spoon.

Often, a fish will hear or briefly see your lure in murky water, but miss it when trying to grab it as it disappears from view in the muddy lake.

A stringer hook could also be called a “trailer” hook. It’s applied by sliding a hook (usually a single, barbed hook) over one of the pre-existing hooks on the lure. It’s held on with either a piece or rubber tubing to keep it from sliding off, or it’s possible to open the eye of a hook, place it over the barb of an existing hook, and then squeeze the eye so it can’t slip off past the barb of the lure’s original hook(s).

A treble hook is possible to use and it may increase your chances of hooking the fish, but it can get a bit messy with treble hooks everywhere catching onto each other during a cast.

Tip #11 – NO ROOM OR MONEY FOR A BOAT? GET A PONTOON OR FLOAT TUBE

While it is true that a fishing boat offers lots of conveniences like lots of storage, good speed with an outboard motor, motorized steering with a trolling motor, good mobility and more, boats are not always the most successful method of catching fish.

Boats will often spook fish with their large shadows, noisy bottoms (who hasn’t dragged a tacklebox along the sand floor of an aluminum boat?) and motors.

A great way to almost never spook fish is to wade. However, wading will limit your mobility in murky water, fast-moving or deep water, etc. However, an advanced method (as I see it) of wading is using a belly boat or float tube.

This allows you to act like you’re wading, but without worrying about water depth or clarity, or the consistency of the bottom (soft and gushy).

When you are wading or using a float tube, your legs (I’d strongly suggest full coverage with chest waders) look a lot like a pair of logs drifting by. That’s a lot less likely to scare fish.

Of course, the problem with using a float tube is that you cannot move around quickly to different parts of the lake. You’re basically moving very slowly and covering an area very well.

Float tubes and pontoons are excellent for smaller lakes and streams where you cannot get a boat, and you may hardly be able to access the lake at all if it were not for a very small package (the tube) that you’re carrying with you.

Float tubes are different than pontoon boats in that they submerge most of your body, while a pontoon boat may submerge only your lower legs or maybe nothing at all.

Essentially they are used in the same types of conditions, and they sure do cost a lot less than a Skeeter bass boat.

Oh, and did I mention how much room a deflated tube occupies? Well, I think you can guess … NOT A LOT!

Tip #12 – CHOOSE THE BEST DAY TO FISH

The saying goes that “any day is a good day for fishing” but it’s also true that some days are better than others.

I live in Southern Ontario and I can tell you from experience that lakes in Central and Southern Ontario get a massive influx of vacationers every weekend from May to October.

While it is wise to consider all the tips in this post about where to find fish and the best way to catch them, those issues may not be as important as the timing of your fishing outings.

If you can only fish on Saturdays and Sundays, that’s better than nothing! But if you can, weekdays are better. Why?

Big bass (well, any predatory gamefish) sees a lot of activity on the water from motorboats, swimmers, jet skis, partiers, and of course, anglers. With all this activity and noise, most fish tend not to actively and aggressively feed.

It’s far more likely you’ll hook into a keeper if you’re fishing on a weekday, but even so, some weekdays are better than others.

By the time Thursday and especially Friday roll around, any spooked fish probably have returned to their normal hangout spots where you can use your powers of observation and fish-locating knowledge to find them and catch them.

By the time Saturday rolls around with a virtual carnival on the surface of the lake, that trophy bass hiding under a submerged log near shore, will now be hiding in some unknown shelter in the depths of the middle of the lake.

Key Takeaways

It’s hard to summarize 12 fishing tips that are very different from each other, but the important thing is to keep an open mind about what you know and specifically, what you don’t know.

Fishing tips are endless and I could come up with hundreds, but these 12 are some of the least obvious, yet most useful tips I could come up with from my 40 years of angling experience.

Get out there, use the advice, and teach others when you get a chance!

Firewood is essential for keeping warm during the cold winter months. But log splitting can be a difficult and time-consuming process if you don’t know the right techniques.

To make log splitting easier, we’ve compiled a list of four log-splitting methods that range from traditional axe swinging to modern hydraulic log splitters.

With these tips, you’ll be able to get your log pile (even those 25-inch diameter ones) ready for winter in no time! Read on to learn about the best ways to split big logs for firewood.

How Do I Split Big Chunks of Wood?

To split large logs, there are dozens of conditions that can be created to make the job easier, and here are a few that you can apply;

Cure your logs for a minimum of 1 year, use a maul and sledgehammer along the outside edge of a large chunk on both sides, orient your log splitter into the vertical position if possible, and don’t expect very large logs to be split right through with one pass every time.

Should I Cure Firewood Logs Before Splitting Them?

Traditional wisdom says freshly-cut softwood should be left to dry (cure) for 6 months before burning. Hardwoods should be left to dry for closer to 1 year. The longer the wood dries, the better it will burn, and 1 year is the better option for all firewood in most parts of the country (USA and Canada).

Obviously, you’ll need to cut your trees into manageable lengths and sizes, but that usually means logs and branches that can be 5 – 10 feet in length or more depending on your wood processing equipment.

Whatever the actual size and length of your logs, the next step would be to cut them into fireplace-sized lengths. Officially, 16-inches is the length to shoot for, but that can range from 2-3 inches in either direction before it gets annoyingly long or short.

There are tools to help you with cutting 16-inch chunks along the length of your logs with a chainsaw. You can use a measuring tape and a marker of course, but if you’re doing more than just a couple of logs for personal use, you might consider a measuring aid.

We prefer not to use spray paint since that’s something that will either run out or dry up, so we like “The Perfect Stick” magnetic measuring tool that never needs maintenance or replacement (unless you lose it!).

The Perfect Stick is a firewood length measuring tool that is simple to use and never needs replacement or maintenance.

Alternatively, another great option is the MINGO MARKER which applies a small dot of spray paint every 16 inches as you roll it along your log. This method is slightly faster than using the Perfect Stick but you have to have the right marker paint and hope it does not clog or run out at the worst time.

The Mingo Marker is the fastest and easiest way to mark off cutting lengths on your log in preparation for cutting firewood at good, useable lengths.

Once you’re done cutting your long logs into 16 inch (or thereabouts) lengths, it’s time to let them sit and dry out for a time.

The prevailing wisdom suggests 6 months for a cure time for softwood and 1 year for hardwood, but it really depends on the time of year you start the clock, and your location geographically. Obviously, your wait time will be shorter in the Summer in Arizona than it would be in the rainy Pacific Northwest in October or November.

Ultimately you want the moisture content at around 15% and that can take much longer to achieve in a damp environment, or much shorter in very dry, sunny conditions.

I make it a rule at my place to just wait for a complete calendar year before I start with the splitting process on any pieces bigger than about 6 inches (for both hardwoods and softwoods) since I only have a 6.5-ton electric splitter.

Also, note that both softwoods and hardwoods come in a variety of different hardness levels, meaning that it’s not as simple as saying softwood is soft and hardwood is hard. Many trees are considered to be a “soft hardwood” or a “hard softwood”.

For example, Ash is fairly hard and is considered a hardwood, but it does not compare with the hardness of Hickory or even White Oak.

If you own a splitter that is significantly larger, like 25-ton or more, you can probably split your wood into ready pieces right away. However, since the wood is fresh, it won’t produce the best burn. It will inevitably produce more smoke from the wet wood.

4 Suggested Methods to Split Any Firewood

Method # 1 – AXE

One of the most classic and most used log-splitting techniques is with the axe. This method works best for small logs and branches, as it takes a bit of practice to master.

Start by finding a sturdy log that won’t roll or move around on you. Secure the log in place if necessary.

Using an axe for splitting works best with cured softwood that’s typically not larger than 8 inches in diameter. It’s also best for creating kindling rather than burning logs which can be as large as 12″ in diameter and 18 inches long.

Using an axe with one hand, find a crack or split in the log and insert the blade of your axe into this crack. Then exert pressure with both hands so that the log splits in two. Make sure to wear protective goggles and gloves when using an axe.

If it’s not already obvious, be aware that you’ll soon exhaust yourself if you’re swinging an axe or maul for a few hours, and it will be especially demoralizing if you are trying to split large, uncured pieces of the original trunk.

With some practice and patience, log splitting with an axe can be a rewarding experience – especially if you’re looking for some physical activity!

Method #2 – CHAINSAW

Using a chainsaw is another log-splitting technique that works well for larger logs. It’s important to wear protective gear such as eye and ear protection when using this tool.

To start log splitting using one of the chainsaw methods, set up the log horizontally on a flat surface and make sure that it won’t move around while you are cutting.

Place the lowermost chainsaw bumper spike (the sharp things on the body of the saw where the blade and body meet) into the log to prevent it from erratically flying off its perch. Slowly lower the blade (pivoting down at the bumper spike point of contact) until you have cut right through the log lengthwise.

Keep in mind that using this method of splitting wood with a chainsaw is slow and comparatively wasteful considering the huge pile of shavings, chips, and dust you’ll have around you after splitting 25 logs.

Another method of using a chainsaw to split wood (specifically if the logs/pieces/rounds are very large) is to rip the wood (cutting with the grain as in the above video) but strategically cut smaller pieces around the perimeter of the log.

It’s almost like cutting pieces of a pie. Here’s a great video to show this method:

IMPORTANT: It should be noted that if you cut along the exterior bark and WITH the grain, you’ll end up with nice large strings of wood that is perfect for other uses like fire tinder or even packing material. If you cut the log in any other fashion, you’ll end up with lots of fine sawdust which really can’t be used for anything.

Method #3 – HYDRAULIC (or Kinetic) SPLITTER

For log splitting on a larger scale, or for larger logs, try using a hydraulic log splitter. This tool uses pressurized oil to make log splitting easier and quicker than ever before.

Kinetic splitters are a newer technology that allows for much quicker splitting using a similar machine but with a different power method (though both hydraulic and kinetic splitters require a gas motor).

To start log splitting with this tool, place your log onto the splitter’s log cradle and then position it so that the log is centered directly under the ram.

Then simply turn on the machine and press down on the handle to activate the ram’s motion. As the log is pushed into the splitting wedge, it will gradually be split in two.

Hydraulic log splitters are a great tool for log splitting on a larger scale, as they offer control and precision that can’t be matched with manual log-splitting methods.

Log splitters make any splitting job (large or small) easier, and there are dozens of sizes and models to choose from in a variety of power options (ie. electric, hydraulic, manual, skid steer, tractor PTO, etc.)

Method #4 – WEDGE AND HAMMER

If you’re looking to keep log-splitting traditional, this classic method might be right up your alley! To log split with a wedge and sledgehammer, start by finding a sturdy log to work with.

Place the log horizontally on a flat surface and then secure one end of the log so that it won’t move around. Hammer in a log-splitting wedge at an angle that follows the log’s grain, and then use a sledgehammer to strike the top of the wedge until it splits open.

Depending on the log’s size, log splitting with this method can take some time – but it’s well worth the effort!

Alternatively, you can use a splitting maul near the edge of the log and then use a sledgehammer to pound it down (be sure it’s at the edge so the handle of the maul or axe won’t stop once the wedge or blade goes into the wood 5 or 6 inches).

Do the same on the opposite side and this will split even a large log of almost any diameter, even over 24 inches).

Are Log Jacks Necessary?

A log jack is a strategically-engineered steel pole with a large hook and a set of feet or stabilizers designed to allow you to easily grab, turn, flip and prop up a large log for the purpose of cutting it with a chainsaw (or manually if you really want to).

A log jack is easily deployed by engaging the hook and pulling down on the handle. This action causes the log to be secured by the jack and also lifted and propped up solidly from the ground.

This now allows you to easily and safely cut pieces of the log without having to stick the chainsaw blade into the ground to finish the cut (as you would if the log was sitting flat on the ground).

Log Jacks can handle logs in up to 15 inches fairly easily, and if you purchase a quality log jack, it’s possible to process logs up to 24 inches and in some cases even larger.

In the case of log jacks, it’s important to get a quality brand since lesser-priced jacks don’t have a sharp point on the hook so it won’t grab well, and the design of the hook does not allow it hug the log properly.

Here’s a very quick and simple video showing the use of a very basic log jack or log lifter that lifts and secures one end of the log.

Key Takeaways

To split very large logs (20 inches in diameter or larger), it’s best to cut them into 16 – 18 inch lengths and then let them dry for close to 1 year.

You can use an axe with a wedge or a wedge with a hammer to eventually split nearly any sized log (even 40 to 50 inches in diameter) but often a chainsaw is best (and fastest) for very large logs.

Log Jacks are very helpful for trees up to 24 inches in diameter.

If all else fails and you have money to burn, one foolproof method of splitting any size logs found in North America would be the Rabaud 80-ton splitter! Check out the video:

I have been splitting chunks of timber for firewood on and off for over 40 years and I can tell you for sure that there is a huge demographic that believes log splitters are unnecessary and even detrimental to own.

As someone who has experienced log splitting through all of life’s stages, I can offer some insight into the value (or lack thereof) of log splitters.

Even so, questions relating to ax types, splitter power options, log splitter sizes and construction options are common and require an insightful and experienced answer.

Is it Worth Getting a Log Splitter?

If you split only a small amount of wood (at least 1 cord annually or more), it is advisable to get a log splitter to the same degree that it’s advisable to use a small car instead of a horse if you travel from your home even just once a month to go grocery shopping.

Using an ax or maul will increase your chances of a mishap (my grandfather lost his thumb chopping wood) and will also increase the odds of chronic joint problems later in life (lots of high-intensity arm swinging with heavy weight and powerful inertia forces).

The only scenario where I would not suggest a splitter is if your annual wood-chopping volume is under 1 cord of wood and even then, you’re dealing with dried logs of only 6 inches or smaller in diameter.

Is a Log Splitter Better Than an Ax?

In nearly every way (other than perhaps price and portability), a log splitter is far superior to an ax just as an airplane is superior to walking when it comes to long-distance travel.

A log splitter is much faster (especially kinetic log splitters) than using an ax and requires almost no energy beyond what it takes to lift a chunk of wood weighing only a pound or two onto the splitter.

A log splitter is not only faster, but more importantly, it is safer than wielding a heavy maul. When wood splits with a maul it is more difficult to predict if or where the pieces will end up after being airborne after a violent swing.

A log splitter can split much larger wood than even the best ax with the strongest operator. A 20-ton splitter will be able to deal with logs of nearly any size (even up to 15 inches in diameter and freshly cut, unseasoned), while anything larger will be of commercial quality and ready to deal with whatever the forest can throw at it.

Safety of Log Splitters

Each year in America, there are dozens of reported accidents involving log splitters. The number is not as high as one might expect given the popularity of log splitters. The exact number of accidents each year is unclear, but what is clear, is that most accidents happen with either a DIY/homemade log splitter and/or dual operators.

According to a research study conducted by researchers on behalf of the Yale Journal of Biology and Medicine, most log splitter accidents result in a fairly major outcome such as amputation, while lesser injuries are actually less common.

It is important to understand that if consideration is given to conditions under which a single operator is using a commercially made splitter, the instances of mishaps decrease so much that it is nearly inconsequential statistically to cite them.

“Log-splitter injuries that do not result in amputation of digits or limbs are uncommon. The pressure generated by a log splitter, upward of 13.5 meganewtons per square meter, is more than enough to cause amputation as well as severe crush injury. “

— Christopher R. Spock, BA, Jeffrey C. Salomon, MD, and Deepak Narayan, MDr

On the other hand, injuries that result from splitting wood and NOT using a mechanical log splitter are higher and nearly everyone who has been swinging an ax to chop wood for years will attest to shoulder and other joint injuries that are chronic and won’t go away even decades after the act.

Should I Buy a Used Log Splitter?

If you have the budget for a new splitter and you’ll be splitting a few dozen cords of wood (or more) annually, it would be best to buy a brand-new splitter rather than take on the risk of a pre-owned unit that may have some unseen issues that come to light after a short time.

In my own case, I only split about a cord of wood each year, so I decided to get a used electric model rated at 9 tons of force.

Electric splitters often have fewer components to malfunction, and smaller units (like mine) wouldn’t break the bank or disappoint me terribly if they were to fail earlier than I expected.

While there are many points to check on when inspecting a used splitter (hydraulic cylinder/pumps, oil leaks, hose condition, etc.) that list increases when dealing with a gasoline-powered log splitter.

Another type of splitter that is relatively safe to buy used is a skid steer unit which really only has a hydraulic cylinder and a couple of hydraulic hoses that hook up to the skid steer. There are not a lot of other components whose condition can be hidden from a potential buyer.

What Size Log Splitter Should I Get? (Is a 4 ton log splitter big enough?)

While many factors will be important in determining the size of the log splitter you need, it would be safe to say that a splitter with a power rating of under 9 tons will cause some frustration at some point because of its lack of power. The smallest overall size that will prevent frustrations related to lack of power would be a splitter in the 20 ton to 25 ton range.

While you can buy a 4 or 5 ton electric log splitter, it’s not advisable for most home users. I own a 9 ton electric splitter and even it often cannot power through any log if there is a knot in the line of travel through the splitter – even if the log is only 6 inches in diameter.

Fresh wood is also a challenge to my 9 ton splitter, which is why the wood I split is left to dry for more than a year.

If you purchase a log splitter of at least 20 tons, you’ll have a machine that should last beyond your lifetime AND it will be able to handle a 4-way or even a 6-way splitting wedge instead of my 2-way wedge.

Key Takeaways

Compared to the alternative of an ax or maul, a log splitter is more than a worthy investment for all but the most dedicated (and low-volume) woodsman or homeowner.

Electric models of at least 9 tons would be a basic entry-level for homeowners who will be splitting wood close to home rather than heading out to the bush with their splitter.

Used log splitters can be a wise purchase, but discretion and caution are advised. Be skeptical of used gas-powered machines of any kind as they can malfunction more often than electric machines.

The idea of owning a log splitter is enticing to many and for good reason. A relatively small one-time investment can turn into years of enjoyable splitting (yes, I find it enjoyable rather than just tolerable!) and countless hours of saved time and even body parts!

At the very least, I strongly suggest an entry-level electric model for a few hundred dollars if you have more than a cord or two of wood to cut each year for home heating.

Remember that even split wood does not offer kindling which is simple and safe to make with a very small log splitter.

What’s the Cost of a Log Splitter?

The average cost of a brand new log splitter for general home or light commercial use is $1280, but even this number is deceiving. The price range starts at around $60 for a manual slide hammer splitter and goes to $72,000 for an 80-Ton hydraulic splitter. Prices will also vary according to whether the splitter is new or used, its condition, and in which part of the country you’re buying.

All research pertaining to the average cost of different styles and conditions of log splitters is based on a national average and not on any local area or state, so it’s best to confirm prices more precisely in your county or region.

What is the Average Cost of a Gas Powered Log Splitter?

The average price of a brand-new gas log splitter is $2100. The average cost of a used gas log splitter is $950. This average is based on a selection of gas-powered splitters ranging from 12-ton to 40-ton.

It’s important to note that in reality, all log splitters (other than electric and fully manual) are gas-powered since all of them have either their own engine (motor) or are attached to a tractor or skid steer which uses gasoline to produce the hydraulic power for the splitter.

However, when gasoline splitters are referenced, the understanding is that they are stand-alone units with their own gasoline engine in a self-contained, fully functioning unit.

What is the Average Cost of an Electric Log Splitter?

The average price of a brand-new electric log splitter is $375 while the average price for a used electric log splitter is $270.

The vast majority of electric log splitters are powered by a hydraulic cylinder (as are most others) but we did include one electric kinetic splitter which does not have a hydraulic component.

What is the Average Cost of a Slide Hammer Manual Log Splitter?

The average cost for a new manual slide hammer log splitter is $100 while a used model costs around $20.

We found the biggest difference between new and used splitters was found in the least expensive kind which was the manual slide hammer style splitter.

What is the Average Cost of a Manual Hydraulic Log Splitter?

The average price you’ll pay for a brand-new manual hydraulic log splitter is $290. A used manual hydraulic splitter will cost you an average of $80.

Manual hydraulic log splitters can be powered with 2 long poles moved back and forth (almost looks like the operator is cross-country skiing) or with a bottle car jack-style power cylinder.

What is the Average Cost of a Kinetic Log Splitter?

The average price you can expect to pay for a new kinetic log splitter is $1900 while you’ll only pay $900 for a used kinetic log splitter.

Finding pricing information for kinetic splitters is a bit more difficult since there are relatively few kinetic log splitters on the market. It is a newer technology that offers some benefits like faster cutting and less fuel consumption.

What is the Average Cost of a 3-Point Hydraulic Tractor Lot Splitter?

The average cost of a 3-point hydraulic log splitter is $1950 for a new one and only $700 for a used model.

Quality 3-point splitters for tractor hydraulics are harder to find as it appears they either sell very well (used) or are not sold by the original owner very often.

What is the Average Cost for a PTO (Power Take Off) Log Splitter?

The average cost for a new PTO (screw style) log splitter is $700 and a used PTO log splitter is about $400.

What’s the Average Cost of a Skid Steer Log Splitter?

The average price you’ll pay for a new skid steer log splitter is $2780. If you’re looking for a used skid steer log splitter then the budget will be $1000 – $1500 for a 40 ton splitter or well about $1360 overall .

Skid steer log splitters come in a variety of styles that both look and operate very differently from one another. Some models have a blade with advanced tree-processing abilities while others simply have a hydraulic cylinder on one end with a wedge on the other.

As a result, prices for skid steer log splitters can vary significantly.

What’s the Average Price for Building Your Own (DIY) Log Splitter?

Making your own log splitter can cost you as little as $400 for a safe, effective design, or more than $5000 for a very powerful, commercial-style unit. For a very simple design that utilizes a commercially available small bottle jack, the out-of-pocket costs can be as little as the cost for the jack, or around $60.

Many advantages are gained by making your own log splitter (like the ability to install large wheels and a wide base for safe and very stable highway travel) but you’ll have to love working with your hands.

You’ll also need tools and machines that allow for cutting steel, welding and more.

It’s important to note that making your own log splitter doesn’t mean it will be necessarily less expensive or more effective, or easier to use.

The example in the photo shows a splitter that needs to be pumped by hand (since it’s powered by an automotive bottle jack). It’s also very slow and cannot handle very large logs. Still, it took a very long time to make.

That said, for a cost of $60 for the jack, and potentially no other costs (if you have metal in your shop and don’t equate your time with money), you may find this option works for you.

You can also buy (there are even free versions of) plans and diagrams for making your own log splitter.

For the low cost of $19 you can get your own plans!

Click the image of the splitter above to get your own DIY splitter plans!

What is the Average Cost of Renting a Powerful Log Splitter?

The average cost of renting a 20-ton log splitter is very close to $100 per day, and over $1000 per month.

In many cases, it might make sense to rent a log splitter instead of buying one, but a bit of simple math and planning can tell you if it’s worth it. Remember that for LESS THAN the price of a one-month rental of a 20-ton splitter, you can own your own (though there will be additional costs you won’t pay if you rent).

Most rental units are fairly beefy and fall into the 20-ton or more range and I would suggest this option if you’d like to avoid frustrations with less powerful units. You’ll also have to have a hitch to tow it.

When determining the best equipment to rent, you’ll want to consider how much wood you’ll be splitting and the type of wood you’ll be working with. Also consider the time you’ll have or need to do the job, and where you’ll be splitting the wood.

This will help you determine how much power you will need to successfully finish the task within the timeframe you’ve allotted.

It’s important to note the maximum cut length and a maximum diameter of the log the equipment is able to split, especially if the wood has already been cut into shorter logs.

Splitters are oriented either vertically or horizontally. Vertical splitters require less lifting of the logs and are the best choice when splitting a higher volume of wood, or larger logs.

Horizontal machines will, by their design features, require more lifting. However, they are available in more styles because of their efficiencies inherent in the mechanics.

The Hidden Costs of Log Splitter Ownership!

While it might seem that your purchase price is all that matters when considering log splitter cost, there are, unfortunately, a whole host of other associated costs connected to many splitter models/styles/options.

I don’t like extra costs, so I bought a small, electric version that has the fewest maintenance worries of any other option I know.

Hydraulic fluid is a common item for many splitters and the cost for the fluid is minimal given the amount you’ll use.

For gas splitters, you’ll need to be aware of the costs for fuel, oil and lubrication as well as any filters needed for oil and air.

There may be fewer variables to break with skid steer or tractor-mounted splitters (since most of the mechanical components are on the host machine itself). However, any problems that do occur on 3-point or skid steer splitters will likely cost more given their heavier-duty qualities.

IMPORTANT: Be very careful when purchasing a used log splitter that has a motor. Used motors such as those found on lawnmowers and wood-chippers are notorious for becoming problematic shortly after the new owner starts using them.

If you’re buying used, it’s safer to stick with electric or maybe a well-maintained skid steer or tractor model.

Key Takeaways

Because of the wide range of prices and features offered by wood splitters, it’s more important to do your due diligence and research before buying, even more so than with many other tools or items related to lawn and home care.

If budget is a concern and you’re a home-user that splits several cords of wood annually, I’d suggest a good electric splitter. The cost won’t break the bank, it’s small and convenient, and it will likely do the job for most small logs.

If budget is less of a consideration, then the world of splitters is open to you! Consider yourself blessed!

References:

• https://www.oregonproducts.com/
• https://split-fire.com/
• https://amzn.to/3X0RTVK

Log splitters come in a wide range of sizes and weights. While most splitters have a set of wheels, they are usually only meant to help move the splitter from place to place on a small scale like from a patio to a yard, etc.

Larger splitters come with a tongue coupler that is meant for attachment to a ball hitch on an automobile because it is too large to move efficiently by hand.

However, just because it has a coupler, it does not mean that it is meant for towing on roads.

Let’s explore what splitters can be towed, how best to transport most splitters, and in on what roads you can travel safely with a splitter in tow.

Can a log splitter be towed?

If a log splitter comes with a trailer coupler, it is designed to be towed. However, the smaller the wheels, the less roadworthy it is and without inflatable wheels, it is likely not meant for serious road travel. As the wheelbase and road clearance increases, and the wheel size increases, then the splitter is able to travel faster and in a safer manner on the road.

Ultimately, you will need a vehicle with a hitch and a ball to accept the coupler from the splitter. You won’t need a truck or any special vehicle since most towable splitters only weigh between 500 and 1000 pounds. Most cars can easily pull a splitter with the proper towing gear.

Be sure to consult your vehicle’s owner manual to confirm tow ratings and capacities and follow some basic rules which include using the correct equipment for towing and following towing best practices.

You’ll also need to be familiar with the route you’ll be taking on the road to avoid potentially difficult backing up on public roadways.

It’s always best to inspect the splitter well before your trip and you should be familiar with local towing regulations.

As a basic pre-trip checklist, we suggest you do the following:

• Be sure the towing ball is in the coupler and properly secured.
• Be sure all support legs on the splitter are retracted and secured.
• Check to be sure gas caps and potentially loose items are secured and that there are no dangling hoses, etc.
• Check tire pressure (dangerous if they are too soft)
• Check that safety chains are connected to your vehicle from the splitter

What’s the Preferred Method of Transporting a Log Splitter?

Ideally, a log splitter should be transported in the bed of a pickup truck if possible. Barring that option, using a trailer such as a landscape trailer that is meant for lawn and garden equipment like mowers, tillers and snow blowers is your best bet. If you have (or borrow or rent) such a trailer, you’ll avoid a whole host of other issues that can cause big problems.

Even if you do have a truck (or trailer), it can be challenging to get the splitter into the bed without some help from either a winch or a half dozen bodybuilders! If you move your splitter often, it may be a good investment.

However, not everyone can have access to a trailer, and if that’s the case, there are a number of issues that you’ll need to be aware of.

Does My Splitter Need Special Lights?

Log Splitters don’t come with their own set of lights because they usually do not block the view to the vehicle’s signal and brake lights. That said, if your splitter is large enough to potentially obscure the vehicle lights from anyone traveling behind your vehicle, then you can add a set of portable magnetic lights made especially for such conditions.

Additionally, it’s never a bad idea to have a slow-moving vehicle sign if you plan to travel slower than around 30 mph, especially if you don’t have extra lights.

Do I Need Special Towing Equipment for a Log Splitter?

You won’t need “special” equipment to tow a log splitter, but you will need some basic items to allow for safe towing. At a minimum, you’ll need an installed towing hitch assembly attached to your vehicle, but for most log splitters, you won’t need an electrical hookup.

However, without an electrical hookup connection, your towing options for other items (like trailers) will be very limited since it is not legal in most jurisdictions to tow a trailer without brake lights and turn signals.

On your hitch, you’ll need a receiver and ball. It’s important you have the right-sized receiver (the part that the ball is screwed on) to fit the hitch on your vehicle. Trailer hitch sizes come in 4 different sizes; 1-1/4″, 2″, 2-1/2″, and 3″ sizes are normal. 2″ is the most common size.

In addition, you’ll have to be sure you have the right-sized ball for your log splitter’s coupler. Common ball sizes are 1-7/8″, 2″ and 2-5/16″

Any of these options are large enough to accommodate most log splitters, but it’s important to have the right system for your splitter.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON BALL MOUNTS: A trailer ball mount is an item upon which your towing ball is mounted, and it’s also the item that slides into the towing hitch on your vehicle. Ball mounts come in a variety of configurations to allow for raising and lowering the ball to make your trailer (or log splitter) sit level.

You’ll need to make sure your splitter can be attached to your vehicle without slanting significantly up or down. You may need a special ball mount that drops the angle from your vehicle’s hitch.

Do I Need a License / Plate for my Log Splitter?

Different jurisdictions have different rules, so it’s best to call your local Department of Motor Vehicles. I live in Ontario, Canada, and log splitters are considered towable equipment and not trailers. Only trailers need licensing.

How Fast Can I Tow a Log Splitter?

Log splitters are not meant to be towed using their own wheels for long distances on highways, etc. They are meant to be towed locally or even just on one rural property. If you do take it across town, a 500 lb to 1000 lb splitter should be towed at a top speed of around 40 mph.

Remember that most log splitters are not equipped with shocks or suspension of any kind. That means that they will rattle and bounce more than a trailer, and more importantly, it means they can sustain expensive damage like damaged wheels, broken axles, or worse!

Log splitters tend to have a narrower wheelbase than even a small trailer, while at the same time being slightly top-heavy. These two qualities mean that log splitters have a higher potential for tipping over if the vehicle turns quickly and sharply, or if one wheel hits a larger obstacle.

It’s crucial to understand that the speed at which you tow your splitter will be determined in large part by the size of the wheelbase (how far are the wheels from each other) and the size of the wheels.

Most splitters have wheel rims that are about 8 inches in diameter and tires just under 5 inches wide.

However, if you make your own log splitter (yes it’s totally possible), or you modify your splitter carefully and skillfully, you can add larger wheels that will allow for a faster tow. Standard trailer wheels are 13″ and they can travel as fast as any vehicle goes on the highway.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON ROAD SPEED: As you may have guessed if you’ve read this far in the article, slower speeds are better for towing a log splitter. However, it is unwise to travel so slow (20-30 mph) that you annoy drivers behind you. At such slow speeds it’s possible to cause major traffic annoyances and even potential accidents with drivers that need to pass you and travel at normal speeds.

How Do I Backup Properly?

Backing up with your log splitter in tow can be a big problem. In fact, it’s because of its small size that it becomes a big problem. As a rule, the longer the tow vehicle is and the shorter the trailer, the more difficult it is to back up.

With short trailers, every minor movement of the steering wheel will greatly affect the movement direction of the trailer while backing up.

Log splitters are very short as far as trailers go and that means your backup driving skills need to be advanced. The use of both wide side mirrors (that extend far from your vehicle) and a pole with a small flag attached to the splitter, may help with backing up.

If that wasn’t enough of a challenge, consider that most log splitters are too narrow and short to be seen by the driver of the tow vehicle, which makes it even more difficult to back up.

If the log splitter turns quicker and is harder to control, AND you can’t even see it to correct any problems, you’d be best to not back up at all, or use a larger trailer or truck bed to transport it.

In most cases, it’s just easier to unhitch the splitter and use your muscles (and maybe borrow another person or two if necessary) to move the trailer instead of attempting to back up.

Key Takeaways

Remember that most towable log splitters are meant to be towed only around a large property (backwoods) or maybe across town (local or rural roads), but not 80 miles per hour on the highway.

Using a GPS to find “back roads” is also another good idea when towing a log splitter on public roadways.

If at all possible, it’s best to use a pickup truck bed or landscape trailer to move the splitter though it may be difficult to get the log splitter into a pickup truck (or out) without lots of help!

REFERENCES:

• https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessories/trailer-balls/learn-more#:~:text=Trailer%20hitch%20balls%20come%20in,2%2C000%20up%20to%2030%2C000%20pounds.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgrXF8P7bqQ
• https://www.gtamotorcycle.com/xf/threads/towing-a-log-splitter.212444/

What Are the Different Types of Log Splitters?

Options for those looking to purchase a log-splitting machine or tool are vast and varied. Some of the more common types would include:

• Gas
• Electric
• Manual
• Slide Hammer Manual
• Hydraulic
• Kinetic
• Screw Cone for Drill

As one might expect, each option has advantages and disadvantages, which will be explored in this article.

Having used splitters for decades, I’ve come to some conclusions about each style and what type is best for what conditions.

But First, a Few Preliminary Things to Know!

Before we explore the different types of splitters on the market, it would be good to mention a few items that everyone should know to properly understand the different styles.

First, most log splitters (though not all) are designated with a power rating based on tons of force. Much like a gas motor’s size and power is rated based on its HORSEPOWER, log splitters are rated according to how much pressure they can exert, measured in TONS.

A small splitter would start at around 5 tons of pressure while a huge commercial splitter would offer 80 tons of pressure.

Also, when we discuss hydraulic splitters (which most splitters are) we’re talking about a system where a cylinder uses hydraulic fluid to generate a great force. Hydraulics are not the power source (like electricity or gasoline would be). Hydraulics is merely the system (which needs to be powered) that provides the force.

In other words, you can have a tractor-powered (which is actually gasoline or diesel) hydraulic splitter or an electrical-powered splitter.

Similarly, kinetic log splitters are simply splitters that use a different technology in the process of applying force, but as with hydraulic splitters, kinetic splitters need a specific power source. Both kinetic and hydraulic splitters can be powered by gasoline or electricity.

GAS

Gas/Petrol-powered splitters are one of the most commonly available styles of log splitter. Because of their ability to be extremely portable without requiring a PTO (power take-off) unit on a tractor (or hydraulics) or any electricity, they are often best for remote use in a forest far from electrical power.

While not as strong as tractor-driven hydraulic splitters (3-point or PTO), gas splitters don’t need to be attached to a large tractor that can cost tens of thousands of dollars.

Pros

• Very Portable
• Widely Available
• Typically stronger than similar powered electric models
• Easier to use than electric splitters (ie. can be used with one hand, unlike typical electric models)

Cons

• Because of toxic emissions, it can’t be used indoors or anywhere without adequate airflow
• LOUD (compared to electric, manual, kinetic, and even hydraulic)
• More expensive than electric splitters
• Maintenance with re-fueling and oil changes can be a bit more involved than manual, kinetic, or electric
• Marginally heavier than electric splitters

ELECTRIC

Electric splitters are easily found at any hardware store or online, and are commonly found secondhand on various websites like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.

Because of their portability and small size, they are often the splitter of choice for homeowners looking to stock up on a few cords of wood for Winter. Compared to any other option of splitter, electric splitters are the least intimidating option and can be used indoors as well.

Pros

• Smaller than other wood splitter options of the same power rating
• Very quiet (only make a tiny bit of noise when activated – no hearing protection required!)
• Can be used indoors (garage or basement) since there is no noise or fumes
• Never need to change oil or service the engine
• Less expensive to purchase and operate
• Easier to move (portability)

Cons

• Don’t offer really high power ratings over 10 tons
• Requires an electrical outlet to be within extension cord distance
• Operation is designed to use 2 hands on 2 separate controls through the ENTIRE split arm extension, so no hands are free to guide the log properly through the splitting process

SKID STEER SPLITTERS

A skid steer log splitter is a very large (and expensive) piece of apparatus that attaches to the front end of a skid steer (like a Bobcat for example) and connects to the hydraulic system of the skid steer.

The notable feature of a skid steer splitter is that it comes in a huge variety of configurations and offered features – much more so than an electric or gas splitter.

For example, skid steer splitters can be simply units that are carried around and powered by a skid steer, but operate like a gas splitter. On the other hand, a skid steer splitter can also be an “all-in-one” unit that grabs, carries, cuts lengths, splits and pushes the wood through from a large log size to a finished product.

Pros

• All-in-one solutions sometimes included in a particular design
• Wood can be lengthed (cut into lengths) and split without even getting out of skid steer.
• Very powerful

Cons

• Expensive
• Must be compatible with your skid steer’s mechanics (pump pressure, weight, flow rate)
• Not a stand-alone apparatus – must have a skid steer in good working order

MANUAL HYDRAULIC

Manual log splitters refer to a style of log splitter than requires some degree of your own, biological physical energy to be used in order to split the log.

This type of splitter is preferred by those with a smaller budget and stronger (younger) body. It offers a host of benefits from budget considerations to exercise to size/weight advantages. Of course, the big downside (aside from requiring your energy) is that the size of log that can be split is very minimal (8 inches diameter maximum).

Pros

• Very cost effective/budget friendly
• Small and light for portability
• No need for any complicated maintenance
• No need for costly fuel or electricity
• Offers physical exercise (couldn’t we all use more of that??)
• Offers a pretty high power rating of up to 10 tons

Cons

• Very slow in splitting
• Requires your own physical labour as the sole power source
• Offers minimal split size (8 inches is typically the maximum size)
• Build quality is often lower and hydraulic cylinders have often failed
• Not widely available

MANUAL SLIDE HAMMER

A slide hammer is a manual splitter that is perfect for small jobs including kindling preparation. It’s best for logs that are about 8-10 inches tall and 3-5 inches in diameter.

It’s less of a log splitter and more of a kindling-making tool. While it is possible to split larger logs with some styles (yes, it comes in various styles) it’s very tiring and you’ll likely want a powered splitter soon!

Manual slide hammers offer unparalleled economy, portability and convenience, but fall short when it comes to efficiency.

Pros

• Low price
• Easy to transport
• Requires no external power (other than you!)
• No on-going maintenance
• Safer than swinging an ax or maul
• Offers up to 10 tons of force

Cons

• Very tiring
• Not always more effective than an ax
• Can’t easily split logs that would be easy for even the smallest electrical log splitter
• Steel smashing on steel is very loud and annoying to neighbors

IMPORTANT!

The Splitz-All manual slide hammer splitter is a bit of an outlier. It is far more effective than other manual slide hammer models. It can split 8-inch logs in 2 strokes. However, it is heavier and far more expensive than any other manual model, and is also pricier than almost any second-hand powered model up to 10 tons!

KINETIC & HYDRAULIC

This category of Kinetic / Hydraulic log splitters is a bit deceiving since all the other types are categorized according to their power source.

However, neither kinetic nor hydraulic describes a power source. Both kinetic and hydraulic splitters can have a variety of power sources like electricity or combustible fuel.

Hydraulic splitters are by far the more common type and virtually every splitter you see on the market is hydraulic-based. It uses hydraulic fluid to create pressure in a cylinder to power the push arm.

On the other hand, the less common but MUCH faster kinetic splitters use a rapidly spinning flywheel to create power which is then stored and released as needed to power the push arm which pushes the log against a wedge.

Both systems have advantages and disadvantages that are worthy to note!

KINETIC

Pros

• VERY FAST – From the start of the push arm movement until return to starting position (recycle time) it’s only about 2 – 3 seconds instead of up to 15 seconds for a hydraulic splitter recycle time
• Parts to maintain are minimal. Only the engine itself needs maintenance instead of all the other parts like fluids, hoses, etc.
• Uses less fuel per split

Cons

• Significantly more expensive than hydraulic splitters
• Because of the speed of the push arm, very hard woods or large logs are more difficult to split than with hydraulic splitters
• Cannot be used vertically
• Relatively new technology

HYDRAULIC

Pros

• Noticeably less expensive than kinetic splitters
• More widely available than kinetic splitters
• Well-established technology with a trusted track record
• Can split thicker wood than kinetic

Cons

• Slower than kinetic splitters
• Contains more parts to maintain and/or fail
• Noisy

SCREW CONE

Here’s a unique option that works if you have a strong drill and wrists of iron. A screw cone works on the same premise as a splitting wedge but instead of being forced into the wood with a hammer, the cone has threads that pull itself into the wood.

Better quality cones come with an assortment of shanks and shank attachment options. I’d stay away from any cones that cost less than $50 as their reviews are not impressive.

It is crucial to understand HOW to use it properly. If your log is very small (about 4 inches in diameter) you can drill the end of it, or you can drill the side of the log. If drilling the side, it’s strongly advised that you do NOT drill in the center of the log.

Intuitively it would make sense to drill in the center, but that will increase the likelihood that the cone will get stuck and the log will not be split. If you start nearer the edge, it will be easier to split a smaller chunk off the edge.

Pros

• Cost effective
• Very small
• Easy to use

Cons

• Won’t split large logs
• May not split very much if technique is not correct
• May irritate or even injure your wrist(s)
• Can cause excessive pressure on the drill componentry including battery

HORIZONTAL vs. VERTICAL SPLITTER

Most log splitters sold are horizontal in orientation since they are typically smaller and can be operated with more convenience from a standing position.

Furthermore, horizontal splitters are less expensive and require a smaller space to operate in most cases.

However, there are a few major advantages to vertical models.

Vertical splitters are designed to be able to accommodate larger logs in both length (or height) and in diameter or width.

By incorporating the splitting wedge into the splitting arm or cylinder which moves downwards, the base of the machine remains flat which allows a large log to be moved into position without actually lifting it.

In addition, many vertical splitters have an attachable, option winch system to help move exceptionally large logs into place. If a winch is necessary, that means you have a very strong splitter that can split nearly any log you have!

Pictured above from L to R: Horizontal splitter, Horizontal splitter with an added winch system

AVERAGE COST OF EACH STYLE OF SPLITTER

The average cost of splitters is not a very accurate representation of what you will pay since the prices vary greatly from a brand new 80-ton Rabaud splitter for $75,000 to a used screw cone for $10.

However, here is a very basic chart with general averages as per our research.

WHICH IS THE BEST CHOICE OVERALL?

The question of which is “the best” is impossible to answer without defining “best”, and that is also a difficult task.

Generally, here’s an overview of the best splitter for various conditions:

If you work in a remote forest environment, a gas-powered hydraulic version is likely the most useful option.

If you are not a professional but just want something to occasionally split small to medium logs for personal use, an electric 7-9 ton splitter would be best.

If you are concerned about environmental impact but still need a higher splitting capacity and budget is not as big a consideration, a kinetic model may suit you well.

If you only occasionally split small to medium logs and have a very limited budget, but a set of good, strong arms and some time to spare, a manual slide hammer could be worth a look.

If you are a commercial user like a landscaper or specialized wood delivery service provider, a larger, tractor-driven hydraulic system (horizontal or vertical) might be the wisest choice for sheer efficiency.

If you are mainly splitting wood for kindling (especially if it’s dry) and have a good drill, you might consider a screw cone … or a good old ax!

KEY TAKEAWAYS

The sheer variety of log splitter styles, power options, sizes and prices can be overwhelming. If you are pretty sure you’ll need one, then it’s best to do a bit of research and then actually take the step to purchase.

You’ll find that even a modest splitter will far surpass the use of an ax for safety, energy, efficiency and ease of use.

I own a 7-ton electric splitter and it splits more than I thought it would so I’m happy.

Don’t forget to consider variables such as overall weight of the unit and how that may (or may not) affect your decision, as well as issues of ease of use, budget, environmental factors and volume of wood to be split.

After storing my paddle crafts for nearly 5 decades, it’s clear to me that while I’ve learned a whole lot, there’s always more to learn with the advancement of technology and manufacturing.

I’ve written extensively on how to store a canoe over the winter in a cold climate, but kayaks come in a variety of shapes and design styles (much more so than canoes) and that can pose a unique challenge.

Here’s what I’ve learned over the years from both experience and lots of research!

How to Store a Kayak Over Winter in a Cold Climate

If you live in a colder or wetter climate, it is important to take the necessary steps to protect your kayak from the elements. This can be done by proper storage and covering.

Your kayak should be stored in a covered area, such as a garage or shed, where it will be protected from wind, rain, snow and light. A tarp or cover can also be used to protect your kayak from the snow and ice. Make sure that the cover is waterproof and fits tightly around the kayak.

Where is the Best Place to Store a Kayak Over the Winter?

As a rule, the best place or environment in which to store a rotomolded polyethylene (plastic) kayak is inside a 4-sided shelter at room temperature (around 68ºF) on a kayak stand that holds the hull evenly with no added pressure on any part of the hull.

It’s also crucial that the kayak is NOT left where sunlight can hit it directly, or even indirectly like through a North-facing window. Light is far more likely to make your kayak hull brittle and faded than any variation in temperature.

These rules apply to any kayak made from any material including fiberglass, Kevlar or wood.

Storing your kayak inside your garage is an ideal option. The temperature is more moderate and won’t cause any potential problems.

What’s the Best Way to Store a Kayak Indoors?

If you have precious little room in your garage for storage, it might make sense to prioritize a spot for your kayak since a garage is the ideal location for kayak storage.

The first step should be to clean the kayak well with soap and water (or maybe just clean water) followed by a good rinse if soap is used.

It’s best to store composite kayaks upside down, while recreational and fishing kayaks can be stored upright.

If you own an expedition/sea kayak or a plastic recreational kayak, there are lots of options for exactly how they are secured during storage.

Storage Options:

OPTION 1 – use a set of straps/belts slung under the hull about 1/3 in from both the bow and stern, and use a pulley system to raise the kayak to the ceiling.

This option maximizes space conservation since there’s probably a decent amount of airspace in your garage that is not being occupied.

If it’s possible in your case, I would suggest this is the best option for long-term kayak storage from every perspective (safety, space conservation, kayak preservation, etc.) except maybe from the point of view of ease of access.

However, if this is only long-term storage for Winter, you won’t need to access and store it daily or weekly like you might during the paddling season.

OPTION 2 – Plastic or composite kayaks are often best stored on their sides in a cradle system that is attached to a wall. This system may need to be custom made from steel, or perhaps a DIY option from wood might work.

It looks much like 2 large hooks that can cradel the kayak sitting upright or on its side depending on how you position it.

OPTION 3 – If you have space on an open floor, you can use a set of kayak stands. These X-shaped stands fold up easily and feature nylon straps as the surface on which the kayak sits.

This is an inexpensive option and you can even make your own if you really want to.

OPTION 4 – Use a FREE-STANDING kayak rack with a perfectly-designed set of hooks for multiple kayaks. This is a great option that offers the ability to move storage locations easily and quickly.

Here’s one of the best options for portable kayak stands that are designed for 2 kayaks

OPTION 5 – Purchase or make your own stand up kayak rack. You don’t even need to have an actual rack for this option. Some paddlers have used a garage or shed interior wall (especially in a corner) as the main support and a padded base to add protection to the bow (or stern) as well as support.

This isn’t my favorite option since the ceiling height of many garages won’t fit a 16-foot kayak facing straight up. Also, gravity will put pressure on the hull in a way that a gentle, horizontal cradle with 2 support straps or padded beams (spread evenly under and around the kayak) would not.

If you choose to store your kayaks vertically, be sure to face the bow towards the ceiling (or sky).

In my opinion, this option is best for very short term storage, like daily or weekly.

• With all these storage options, it’s best to ensure that whatever surface your kayak touches during storage, it’s a soft one. Good options are foam in addition to nylon straps instead of hard surfaces like wood or steel touching the hull directly.

Protective Measures:

Aside from washing the hull and ensuring there are no cracks in the hull (which can split further with expansion from ice), there’s no real need to apply any other sealants or chemical protectants.

IMPORTANT – Whether storing inside or outside, the most important thing you can do (in my opinion) is to ensure direct UV light (including indirect daylight) does not have access to any part of the kayak hull.

In practical terms, keep the kayak 100% covered on all sides with a UV-protective cover if stored outside. If it’s stored inside and must be near a window, keep the parts facing the window covered with a UV cover or use window blinds.

If your kayak is in a garage but on the opposite side from any windows, it becomes a bit less important to keep it fully covered, but I still would keep mine covered with a fitted UV-protective cover in all storage environments.

If your kayak has any wood elements with screws, it’s always a good idea to slightly loosen the screws (especially in a very cold environment) to reduce the chance of any wood splitting.

If you are using a protective cover (which I highly recommend) there are some differing views on what is best.

VIEW 1 – Be sure to use a tightly fitted waterproof, breathable kayak cover on your craft to protect it from the elements.

VIEW 2 – Be sure to cover the kayak, but if it’s outdoors, use soft foam separators placed along your kayak’s hull to keep the protective cover off the surface of the kayak to prevent sticking, molding and staining of the kayak hull.

Either one of these views would work better than exposing the hull to harmful sun rays all day every day, but I like the idea of keeping my cover separated and not super tight against the hull. Why? It’s the same reason I like to have my camping tent suspended well over my head instead of wrapped tightly around my body when it’s raining.

Unless you’re using plastic, covers are more weather-proof when not in contact with another surface.

What to do Before You Store Your Kayak

Before storing your kayak, you should take some preparatory steps to protect it from the elements. First, make sure that the kayak is clean and free of debris as mentioned earlier.

You can clean it with a mild detergent and water as mentioned earlier in this article.

Remove any soft fabric items like neoprene or foam seats and soft hatch covers, etc. to protect them from any storage scenario hazards (mostly outdoors).

Give the hull a good look and be sure to treat any deep scratches or cracks appropriately to prevent further deterioration, especially if stored outdoors.

What to do During Storage

Once your kayak is clean and covered, you should store it in a dry, covered area. This can be a garage or shed. If you live in an area with particularly cold winters, you may want to store the kayak indoors to prevent the cold weather from damaging it.

Periodically check to see that your kayak is protected from direct or even indirect daylight which is the #1 enemy to your canoe during storage. Temperature extremes are typically less damaging to a plastic kayak than UV sun rays.

However, cold weather is not a particular threat to most rotomolded polyethylene kayaks (currently in good condition with no large cracks) and won’t usually warp the hull or make it brittle, etc.

When you are ready to use the kayak again, make sure to inspect it for any signs of damage. If you notice any cracks or other damage, you should repair it before using the kayak again.

Tips for keeping your kayak in good condition while it’s stored

1. In order to keep your kayak in good condition during storage, it is important to take the necessary precautions. This includes covering it with a waterproof tarp or cover and storing it in a covered area.

2. Make sure that the kayak is free of any dirt, dust or debris before covering it.

3. If you live in a cold climate, make sure to cover the kayak with a tarp or cover that is specifically designed to protect against the elements (ie. UV protective).

4. Make sure that the kayak is secured tightly to prevent it from blowing away in bad weather. It’s also not a bad idea to lock your kayak if it’s stored outdoors using a heavy cable lock, and be sure it’s not easily visible to passersby.

When storing your kayak, it is important to keep it in and covered area if possible. This will help protect it from damage due to moisture or extreme weather conditions.

If you live in a cold climate, you may want to store your kayak indoors to prevent it from becoming damaged by the cold weather – especially if your kayak has wood or composite components.

When you are not using your kayak, be sure to inspect it for any signs of damage. If you notice any cracks or other damage, you should repair it before using the kayak again. Be sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions when performing any repairs.

What to do When You’re Ready to Use Your Kayak Again

After storing your kayak for the winter, you will need to do a few things before using it again. The first is to inspect it for any damage. If you notice any cracks or other damage, you should repair it before using the kayak again. Make sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions when performing any repairs.

The next step is to give your kayak a good cleaning. This can be done with mild soap and water. Be sure to rinse it off well so that all the soap is removed.

Finally, if applicable, you will need to check the inflation of the kayak’s cart or trailer tires and make any necessary adjustments. You should also check the tightness of all screws and bolts to make sure they are secure.

Is It Okay to Store my Kayak Outside in the Winter?

We’ve talked about this a bit through the article, but to summarize, the answer is YES. You can store your kayak outdoors, and if you follow some best practice guidelines, you’ll probably have excellent success:

1 – Store the kayak under an overhang or other roof scenario rather than in the direct path of falling snow and rain.

2 – Be sure to cover the entire kayak with a UV protectant fabric sheet/cover or otherwise, be sure no direct sunlight or other bright daylight has access to your kayak’s hull. If it does, the plastic will deteriorate eventually from the destructive power of the sun’s rays on plastic.

3 – If possible, keep your cover slightly separated from the hull using foam or other soft material for separation.

4 – If possible, store your kayak in a location that won’t be easily seen by anyone passing by.

5 – Store polyethylene (plastic) kayaks on their side using a kayak storage hook or upright on a set of webbed kayak stands. If it’s stored on its side with hooks, it won’t gather and hold as much snow, but neither will a traditional kayak cover protect it as well.

6 – It’s never a bad idea to lock your kayak with a heavy cable to deter theft.

7 – Remove any scupper plugs and other loose or easily removed items like rod holders, the seat, storage crates (fishing kayak), etc.

IMPORTANT: I don’t store my kayak outside, but if I did, I would first cover it with my UV cover (available on Amazon) and then I would cover it again with a black, thick plastic cover that is 100% waterproof. I would leave it more or less open at the bottom for moisture to escape a bit so that air can flow around the hull, while it is simultaneously protected from falling snow/rain and direct sun/daylight.

Is it Okay to Hang a Kayak by the Handles?

It is not good to hang a kayak by the handles because it is simply not designed to be stored using the handles. If a kayak is stored by the handles, odd pressure points will be used to support the kayak and eventually the handles can break, or worse!

What if My Kayak Freezes?

In researching this question, it seems as though there is a large community of believers that cold is actually GOOD for a plastic kayak given the preservative qualities of sub-zero temperatures on things like food.

Others say warmer is better than colder weather since cold weather can cause trapped moisture to expand and cause damage in the form of ice.

As a general rule, it is true that many outfitters in northern states and in Canada store their kayaks out of the rain/snow under roofed, but wall-less storage racks outside in the freezing temperatures.

The freezing temperatures do not cause the hulls to somehow deteriorate more quickly or crack or break, etc.

How to Properly Store Your Kayak over Winter – Key Takeaways

By taking some of the following measures, you can ensure that your kayak will be in good condition when spring arrives.

• If you live in a colder climate, it is important to take the necessary steps to protect your kayak from the elements. This can be done by proper storage and covering.

• Your kayak should be stored in a covered area, such as a garage or shed, where it will be protected from the wind and rain. A tarp or cover can also be used to protect your kayak from the snow and ice. Make sure that the cover is waterproof and fits tightly around the kayak or separate it with foam separators made from foam floor tiles, pool noodles, etc.

• kayaks should be inspected for any signs of damage before use and repaired if necessary. Be sure to follow all manufacturer’s instructions when performing any repairs.

• If possible, store your kayak indoors and keep it from direct daylight.

Please be sure to check out our YouTube channel for more entertaining and educational videos posted 3 – 4 times weekly.

If you’re in the market for a touring/sea kayak or even a recreational kayak, it would be helpful to know exactly what a skeg is and how it differs from a rudder. I would be nice to know how much of an effect they have (if any) and whether or not they are worth getting and which one is better.

In this article, we take a look at what a rudder and a skeg are, and then I’ll explore a bit more about how tracking and steering work, and take a look at the advantages of skegs vs. rudders.

What is a Kayak Rudder?

A rudder on a kayak works in a similar way to a rudder on any other watercraft or aircraft. It’s simply a flat, sturdy piece of steel or plastic that sits at or near the stern of a kayak, and can be tilted or pivoted towards the left or right.

The principle, of course, is that as it pivots to one side, it creates drag in the water which turns the vessel towards the side with the drag.

In a kayak, the rudder line is a cable that runs to the cockpit and allows the paddler to raise or lower the rudder into and from the water. Rudder cables are a set of cables that run from the rudder to each foot brace, thus allowing a paddler to pivot the rudder left or right with their feet.

It’s important to note that having the ability to pivot left or right is what differentiates a rudder from any other option that may look similar like a fin or a skeg.

What is a Kayak Skeg?

A skeg is a protrusion that looks similar to a rudder and it’s located near the rear or stern of the kayak. It also has a cable that runs to the cockpit which allows the paddler to lower it (deploy) or raise it using a hand control lever.

Skegs are either internal or external in their mounting style, but they serve exactly the same function.

Most skegs can be retracted via a cable that is attached to the skeg and runs to a control lever in the cockpit. The skeg is mounted on the bottom of the kayak near (but not right at) the stern. It retracts into a recessed box that protrudes into the kayak (usually in a storage area).

A skeg is different from a rudder in that it is a fixed blade (often looks a lot like an upside-down shark fin) that does not rotate or pivot side to side.

IMPORTANT! – What’s the Purpose of a Kayak Rudder or Skeg?

It may come as a surprise, but a kayak rudder’s main purpose is to help maintain a course rather than to change direction. While it certainly can help change direction, it primarily serves to keep the stern of the kayak from drifting as the wind pushes it (this is an effect called “weathercocking” which I’ll discuss in the next section).

A rudder has the ability to pivot and “steer” which further serves to keep it on course.

A skeg does not have the ability to “steer” the kayak. In fact, as you try to change course, a skeg will likely resist your attempts to change course since that is its main purpose. It is designed to resist stern “drift” in a crosswind scenario.

Kayak Tracking and Steering Explained

Before the details of rudders and skegs are unpacked further, it’s important to understand some basic principles of how a kayak moves, acts and reacts in the water under various conditions.

Tracking and steering are two very important terms that share some similarities, but they are also different.

TRACKING

“What does tracking mean when applied to canoes and kayaks?” I have asked the question in some of my videos and also in conversation with others. Almost no one knows what it means, so it’s time to change that.

Tracking refers to the vessel’s ability to remain on course. If a kayak tracks well, that means it can maintain a straight line from point A to point B with minimal course corrections (like applying paddle strokes, steering techniques, wind power using a sail, etc.)

Kayaks usually do not have a keel line which helps in tracking so tracking can be a challenge.

Any object or design feature that resists lateral movement (side to side) will help tracking. An example would be a keel line which is fairly common on canoes and almost always present on aluminum fishing boats and most other motorboats.

With regard to tracking, both rudders and skegs can help. In fact, a skeg’s sole purpose is to offer better control in the wind, which is really another way of saying that it helps with tracking.

STEERING

Steering a kayak is an added feature that comes with a rudder. A rudder still offers the benefits of a skeg (to a greater or lesser extent depending on the specific keel and rudder in question) but allows novice kayakers (and those looking for a bit of extra help in control) the ability to steer the kayak without only using paddle strokes.

Because kayaks are meant to be paddled with a double-bladed paddle, it’s not as difficult to stay in a relatively straight line as long as you apply the same paddling pressure on each side as you alternate paddle strokes.

However, wind and currents can add a variable that will make you change your even and symmetrical stroke pattern in order to stay on course.

IMPORTANT! – Water Dynamics 101

In order to understand the value of a skeg or a rudder, it’s imperative you understand what is actually happening to your kayak and its interaction with the water while you are paddling.

As you paddle through the water in any direction, the slicing action of your stem (the cutting edge of your bow) produces a wave on each side of the very front of the kayak (as it slices through the water). This slicing action splits the water and creates water pressure on either side of the bow (kind of like an ax chopping through a piece of wood won’t easily turn in any direction once it’s in the wood).

This slicing action ensures that the front of the kayak is more “anchored” or resistant to lateral movements.

This stabilizing effect of the bow pushing through the water (and the water pressure on each side of the bow keeping it steady and “anchored” while the stern receives very little anchoring support) increases with speed and dissipates completely at a full stop.

As the water passes down the hull of the kayak and approaches the stern, this “anchoring” quality from the splitting action is all but disappeared, so there is almost no protection from lateral motion at the stern.

So, if wind is hitting you from the right side as you paddle, and your balance and weight distribution makes the kayak sit fairly balanced in the water with both bow and stern being about the same distance out of the water, then your stern will start to move to the left (remember, no anchoring action) and your bow will NOT move to the left.

This essentially means the bow will turn INTO the wind, and of course this may not at all be the direction you want to travel.

To counter this effect (called “weathercocking”), you have to EITHER employ wider, sweeping paddle strokes on your right (to try to move the bow to the left), OR you can employ some mechanical device (yes, like a skeg or rudder) to try to minimize the weather-cocking effect on your kayak.

The diagram shows the weathercocking effect the wind has on a kayak with and without a skeg or rudder.

What About Edging the Kayak?

There is almost no time during the main part of most daylight hours that you will not experience wind on the water. Without a skeg or rudder, your kayak is subject to weathercocking, and aside from paddling hard and using sweep strokes, there’s only one other way to try to counter the weathercocking effect.

“Edging” is a term given to the process of “leaning” or slightly tipping the kayak towards the wind. As you lean into the wind, the effect of the skeg is lessened because it’s not as fully submerged. In addition, the “footprint” of your kayak is now different than it was when fully upright.

This change in footprint vaguely resembles a slight “U” or “C” shape in the water. As you edge the kayak towards the wind, the dynamics of how the wind interacts with your kayak allow you to more easily turn your bow away from the wind. If you sit up straight again, weathercocking takes over and now the kayak will turn into the wind (this is assuming the kayak is continually moving forward).

It’s important to understand that the less curved your kayak is (low rocker) the better it will track through the water, but the less you will be able to affect it while edging. They are so straight (with little or no bow and stern upsweep) that their “water footprint” does not change significantly when edged.

While edging will work for many kayaks to counter weathercocking, it’s also not a sustainable position to hold for hours. At the very least, it will make your trip a tedious one to “conquer as quickly as possible” instead of enjoying it.

Do I Actually Need a Rudder or Skeg on my Kayak?

The answer will vary depending on the type of kayak and the type of kayaking a paddler will do. If ultimate tracking is a goal, then having at skeg is a very good option. If tracking AND steering are both important, then a rudder is the best option.

Longer, better-tracking kayaks will benefit from a rudder which helps in turning an otherwise “turn-resistant” kayak. Shorter kayaks (even touring kayaks) that can be maneuvered relatively easily, will find that a retractable skeg will serve them better.

While it is possible to install a skeg or rudder, the good news is that most kayak manufacturers understand the need (or lack of need) for either a skeg or rudder, and include one of them on a kayak model that would typically benefit from having one of those options.

For example, a long kayak will benefit from a rudder to help turn it since longer kayaks are harder to turn. While a rudder is retractable, it is most often best left deployed at all times in all but the very quietest waters.

For long, tandem sea kayaks, a rudder is a “must-have” accessory since a kayak this long and thin is very difficult to turn well (especially with 2 operators) without a steering aid like a rudder.

Short, recreational kayaks turn easily, but that is often a desirable feature for this style of kayak, so a rudder or skeg is not typically needed or wanted.

As I discussed earlier, a skeg does not help in changing the direction of a kayak and will resist turning. A retractable skeg is a helpful feature because it can be deployed on a journey through wind and waves, serving to keep you on course, but in calmer waters, you can retract it in order to maneuver and turn more easily.

The Problem with Rudders

At first look, it might appear as though a rudder is a near-perfect option for anyone who would like to keep their kayak on track as well as steer more easily.

Unfortunately, veteran kayakers know better. A kayak with a deployed rudder (which acts the same as a skeg) will resist stern drift. That means the bow will slowly (or quickly) turn away from the wind. This will result in further corrective actions becoming necessary (ie. the paddler may have to paddle hard on the left side to counter the bow drift).

If the paddler removes or disengages the rudder, the same problem occurs, except now the stern will drift away from the wind.

In either case, further corrective measures need to happen.

In order to create a more manageable kayaking experience in which the kayak will react properly and predictably in all wind conditions, you’ll need to trim your kayak properly. Trimming refers to the adjusting of the weight distribution in the vessel to react as you would like in the wind.

The term “trimming” when used with a kayak can also refer to the degree to which a skeg is deployed, which will have a similar effect to shifting cargo weight to lower the bow or stern. With a deployed skeg, you are effectively “shifting weight to the stern”.

For example, you could trim a boat to head downwind by distributing weight in the boat to make the stern sit lower than the bow. The higher bow will catch more wind and will turn away from the wind.

You can check out this video about how to trim your canoe (the same principles apply to kayaks).

To properly trim a kayak to work in all wind conditions is definitely possible, but you must be deliberate about it and experiment in high winds while changing the position of your seat forward to backward a tiny bit at a time.

This process is awkward and tedious at best, and that’s if it’s even possible to change the location of your seat!

Skegs Are a Bit Better at Controlling Course Direction

Is a skeg any better than a rudder in helping maintain a course on open water in windy conditions?

The answer is YES. Why? Well, I should clarify that an adjustable skeg is by far the superior option when it comes to skegs since only an incrementally-adjustable skeg will solve the problem with kayak rudders (as outlined above).

A skeg that is fully deployed will often anchor the kayak a bit too much, while a retracted skeg does nothing at all. In most cases, a partially-deployed skeg will solve the problem of weathercocking and steering nightmares.

Pros and Cons of Rudders and Skegs

We’ve already discussed some of the good and bad that both skegs and rudders offer, but here’s a quick overview that may help you decide which one is better.

RUDDERS

Pros

• Great for racing – helps maintain and correct course
• Helps beginners feel more confident in controlling (steering) a kayak
• Helps minimize or prevent weathercocking
• Offers “hands-free” steering
• Easily engaged or disengaged

Cons

• Not easy to “partially” deploy for an incremental stabilizing effect to weathercocking
• More expensive than a skeg
• More issues to go wrong like lots of moving parts, cables, etc.
• Slack or extra play in foot pedals can cause sudden imbalance and danger of capsizing
• May inhibit proper skills development in beginners who use rudders as a “crutch” and never learn to effectively maneuver a kayak with other techniques like paddling, edging, etc.
• Have a reputation for cable failure when you need it the most!
• Will be affected by wind at the stern when NOT deployed (acts like a sail)
• Is especially susceptible to damage when moving backward near obstacles

SKEGS

Pros

• Less expensive than a rudder
• Much simpler with fewer moving parts to fail
• Offers incremental adjustments to finesse the process of countering weathercocking
• Will not be affected by the wind when retracted (not deployed)
• Will remain in the water and functioning even if the stern is raised high enough to neutralize the effectiveness of a rudder (like in waves that make raise your stern). This is because the skeg is on the very bottom of the kayak and further forward than a rudder.
• Will not need foot pedals to operate which allows feet to remain on solid braces, thus reducing the risk of capsizing or losing balance due to movable foot pedals causing a loss of balance

Cons

• Does not help in steering the kayak
• Takes up some storage space because of the space needed for the skeg when retracted (skeg box)
• Can fail or jam (as can a rudder)
• Open to damage in very shallow, rocky conditions or from lateral pressure

What’s the Difference Between a Skeg and a Rudder?

To summarize the difference between a skeg and a rudder, it’s best to see the rudder as a tool that can help a long kayak that tracks well, turn or steer easily. It also offers new kayakers some confidence in being able to maneuver the kayak a bit better. A skeg does not help steer, but because it is retractable in increments, it is a better option for controlling stern drift or weathercocking.

What is a Kayak Scudder?

A kayak scudder is yet another option for controlling your kayak, and as the name implies, it is a hybrid of both a skeg and a rudder. The idea is to combine the best of both worlds into one product.

Some manufacturers equip their kayaks with a scudder, and the general feedback from users is a positive one.

A scudder can be pivoted sideways to aid in steering but can be retracted into a skeg box when not in use so it does not act as a small sail on the kayak stern when retracted.

Scudders are used in EITHER rudder mode or skeg mode but not both at the same time. While it may seem that a product that combines two different systems might be nothing more than a compromise that does neither well, scudders typically do the job of both the rudder and skeg virtually as well as each one on their own as long as the scudder is in the appropriate mode.

Skeg vs. Rudder (vs. “Scudder”?) Key Takeaways

The controversy over which one is better has been the topic of discussion for many years. The answer to which is better is really an issue of resolving lots of variables like what type of kayak do you have, how long is it, how strong are you, what is your paddling environment like and countless other variables.

In a nutshell, rudders are good for long, well-tracking kayaks that need a bit of help to turn and also to resist weathercocking in most conditions. Rudders also help beginners gain some confidence in controlling their kayak.

Skegs are good for owners of shorter kayaks that can be turned fairly easily, but that would like some assistance in staying on course in windy conditions.

If you’re still undecided about which is best, you can look at what system is normally installed in a kayak like yours by the manufacturer. They likely have more insight into all the factors I have discussed than either of us!

Or, you can consider a scudder which will offer you the best of both options.

The sport and pastime of kayaking is the fastest-growing paddlesport in the world! As it grows, more and more people are becoming exposed to not only different kayaks and styles of kayaking but the sheer quantity and variety of gear and equipment available for kayakers.

Kayak spray skirts are one of those options and almost everyone who ventures on the water with a sit-in kayak will eventually want one. This is especially true for whitewater and sea expedition kayakers.

If you’ve been paddling a yak for years or if you’re just getting started, I think I can help you understand why you might need or want a spray skirt, how to choose one, and how to use it and care for it properly.

I’m always learning new things in my quest to gain knowledge in the world of kayaking and I’ve been gathering that knowledge for over 40 years. Hopefully, I can use my experience to help you learn a bit more about kayak spray skirts, and with any luck, I’ll learn a few things along the way as well!

What is a Kayak Spray Skirt?

A kayak spray skirt is a piece of equipment that is worn by kayakers to keep them dry. It is a water-resistant cloth that is attached around the kayaker’s waist and covers the kayak cockpit. The kayaker’s lower body and kayak interior are then sealed against the weather and water.

A kayak spray skirt is a necessary piece of equipment for kayakers who want to stay dry, especially in rough water conditions.

If you sit in your kayak (sorry, spray skirts don’t work for fishing kayaks or other “sit-on-top” kayaks) without a spray skirt, you’ll notice that you can see your thighs or maybe even your knees. If heavy rain were to start falling, you can see how you would get, including from the waist down, and how the interior of the kayak would eventually gather lots of water.

If you kayak in rough water like whitewater rapids, it’s even easier to see how your entire kayak could be filled with water and swamped within just a few seconds without something to keep the water out of your kayak’s interior.

Is a Spray Skirt Necessary?

In many situations, you can certainly do without a spray skirt, but in rough water conditions where waves are coming over the sides of the kayak and across the deck, or when you’re kayaking in rough rapids, there’s no good reason for you not to have a spray skirt installed.

If you practice rolling your kayak, it’s strongly advised to use a skirt. Technically, it may be possible to do a few rolls with minimal water retention in the kayak, but eventually, you’ll get swamped.

If you’re kayaking in rainy weather, you’ll gather more and more water in the hull until it starts to rise past your seat and create not only discomfort but poor kayak performance.

Because of the added cost and fuss that surrounds the purchase and use of a kayak skirt, it may be wise to consider the many scenarios where skirts are not at all required or even recommended.

If you are casually paddling on a quiet sunny afternoon in a quiet river or bay, having a skirt is more of a detriment than an asset. It will make you hotter everywhere from the rib cage downward, and it will serve no function whatsoever unless you are in the pouring rain, rough waters with large waves or rapids.

Parts of a Kayak Spray Skirt

Not all skirts have the exact same features, but most have the same basic parts. This example of the Perception TrueFit kayak skirt has some extra features that only make the entire experience of using a kayak skirt all the better.

TUBE– This is the part of the skirt that fits around the kayaker’s waist. It needs to fit tightly, but not too restrictive so as to affect comfort and breathing.

DECK – This is the main part that attaches to the kayak’s cockpit at the bottom, and to the tube at the top. It can feature elements like a zipper to release hot air or an implosion bar that keeps it from sagging and collecting water.

GRIP EDGE – This is the part that actually attaches around the lip or edge of the cockpit itself. Skirts usually come with one of two main types of connections – a bungee style or a rand style.

GRAB LOOP – Most all skirts come with this loop since it makes the job of installing and uninstalling the skirt onto the kayak much easier. The paddler simply grabs the loop then pushes away from his/her body to either install or uninstall the skirt.

IMPLOSION BAR – Not all skirts have this feature, but this Perception TrueFit offers it. The purpose is to reduce or eliminate deck sag due to water pressure or puddles. The bar keeps an upward shape to the main deck of the skirt.

TUNNEL ZIPPER – This is again, a feature not included in all skirts. The purpose is to release any hot air if necessary or at least offer some ventilation during times when the protective features of the skirt are not imminently needed.

SUSPENDERS – Some kayak skirts come with suspenders to secure the fit but not all have this feature.

How Do You Use a Kayak Spray Skirt?

Simply put, a kayaker needs to step into the “tunnel” or “tube” of the skirt and pull it up from their feet to their torso. Then, after getting into the kayak, the base of the skirt is attached to the coaming or rim/edge of the open cockpit to secure it to the kayak and keep water out of the cockpit.

The skirt is attached to the coaming of the cockpit using one of two common attachment systems built into the skirt. One of those systems is called a bungee grip edge and the other is the rand grip edge.

Bungee vs. Rand Grip Edge

A bungee style skirt is usually neoprene and offers a very stretchy cord that easily stretches around the open rim of a kayak cockpit.

It is far easier to apply and remove than the rand style and it is also far more common. It offers a bit more confidence that the paddler will be able to quickly release from the cockpit in the case of a capsize.

A rand style skirt offers a less stretchy fit and is not as popular or common as the easier-to-use bungee style. A rand edge is a bit more technical and features a rubber ridge around the entire perimeter of the skirt where it attaches to the kayak.

The rubber ridge is not unlike that of a kitchen utility container for sandwiches and leftovers. It seals effectively but it’s also more technical and difficult to install and remove.

Rand skirts are best for whitewater and rough conditions since they are not prone to implosion, and they won’t slip off from water pressure from above or air pressure from below.

Some paddlers don’t like the rand style skirt because it seems like it would prevent escape more than a bungee skirt. In reality, both can be exited easily with a bit of practice. Just be sure you can reach the grab loop easily in which case you’ll be able to release yourself easily no matter what type of skirt you use.

Kayak Spray Skirt Materials

There are basically two materials used in the manufacturing of kayak spray skirts; Nylon and Neoprene. Skirts are made of one of these materials, or a combination of both.

NYLON – Nylon skirts are the choice for warm-weather paddlers in nearly all conditions where spray skirts would be required. They do not hold body heat as well (which is a good thing if you’re in a warm climate).

Nylon skirts are a little less durable (if only slightly) and the material is a bit less forgiving when it comes to stretching or resisting tears.

Because nylon is not as stretchy, it won’t fit as snugly around your torso. This means that a good quality nylon skirt will often have a neoprene chest band that offers the most watertight seal around your body.

Even with the neoprene in the tunnel, a nylon skirt is not the best choice for extreme conditions of ocean kayaking and major whitewater.

NEOPRENE – Neoprene skirts are typically more durable, resilient, more fitted and more watertight than nylon. They also happen to be much warmer which is great in colder environments.

Neoprene spray skirts (well, anything made of neoprene actually) should be wet before it is installed. When dry, neoprene is exceptionally difficult to stretch or properly install no matter what product you are using (ie. wetsuit, spray skirt, gloves, etc.)

A high-quality neoprene skirt is more expensive than nylon and offers a better seal for any whitewater or very rough water enthusiast. Immersion Research is a leading company that manufactures (arguably) the best nylon spray skirts.

The Immersion Research Klingon Empire Kayak Spray Skirt

NYLON / NEOPRENE COMBO – A kayak skirt made with a combination of these two materials offers a good compromise between both the good and bad qualities of them both.

For example, a combo skirt usually has a nylon deck which is a bit cooler and will often provide you with features like a zipper and implosion bar.

Then, around your torso, there will likely be a neoprene band or element that increases the watertight qualities that nylon alone cannot offer.

How Do You Apply or Stretch the Kayak Skirt?

Once the paddler is safely inside the cockpit ready to paddle, the process for most skirts would be for the paddler to lean back slightly and slip the grip edge of the skirt around the back of the cockpit edge or coaming. Then as the paddler leans forward, the sides of the skirt can be slipped over the coaming, and finally, the paddler would reach forward to take hold of the grab loop and push it away from the cockpit to stretch it around the remainder of the cockpit edge.

Both bungee and rand skirts are installed the same way, but the rand will take a bit more muscle power and an extra 30 seconds or so.

If installing a rand skirt, be sure to run your fingers around the coaming or cockpit edge after it’s installed to be sure it’s smooth. If you feel any ridges or bumps, that means the rand may not be properly installed so it won’t seal perfectly. Be sure to work out those bumps or reinstall the skirt.

For neoprene skirts, remember that they’ll stretch better if you get them at least a little bit wet. Otherwise, they may be tough and may not stretch and contract as easy.

How Do You Measure a Kayak Spray Skirt?

Measuring yourself and your kayak for a proper skirt is quite easy no matter what method is used. The easiest way is to use sizing software that analyzes your kayak and immediately gives you the proper skirt size. Alternatively, most kayak manufacturers’ websites will display the cockpit measurements of their models, or you can measure the circumference of the cockpit with a string.

Thankfully, many spray skirt manufacturers have a sizing chart. You’ll need to input the type of kayak you have, the brand and the model. With that information, you’ll get the exact size of skirt you’ll need from that manufacturer.

If that method doesn’t work for some reason, you can measure the circumference of your cockpit with a string.

Generally, a circumference of 79″ – 85″ is considered MEDIUM, while 86″ – 90″ is LARGE. A cockpit measuring 91″ – 96″ is EXTRA LARGE while anything larger would be 2X LARGE.

Tube Sizing

It’s one thing to measure the skirt grip edge size, but that’s only half the process of properly measuring a kayak spray skirt. It’s important to get a proper fit at the tube or tunnel around the paddler’s waist and torso.

A good rule of thumb is to use your pant size as a guideline. Otherwise, consider a 26″ – 28″ tunnel size as EXTRA SMALL and a 29″-31″ size as SMALL.

A MEDIUM-sized skirt tunnel would measure around 32″-33″ and LARGE would be considered 34″ – 36″. Anything in the range of 37″ – 41″ is EXTRA LARGE and beyond that is 2X LARGE.

What if I Tip Over With a Spray Skirt?

Tipping over in a kayak while using a spray skirt can seem a bit intimidating and dangerous. It’s tempting for novice paddlers to envision themselves caught underwater in an inverted kayak while being attached to the craft with the skirt and being unable to exit the kayak.

In fact, spray skirts are designed to allow for a safe and easy exit from the kayak in case of a tip.

That said, there are at least 2 main ways to exit a kayak that is tipping or tipped, and the proper way can take way more discipline than many new kayakers might have.

The Poor Method!

The way most paddlers will exit is to simply forcefully pull themselves (or push) out of the kayak while it is starting to tip and is about halfway to a full 180-tip. This is not ideal because, in addition to the kicking and pushing and panicking that happens at that moment when your kayak is about halfway turned over (about 45º rotated from upright), it will also take on lots of water once the paddler has exited.

That means it will be less buoyant and more difficult to bring to shore and prepare for paddling again.

The Better Method!

While this method may take nerves of steel and perhaps a bit of previous practice, it is far and away the better method of exiting a tipped kayak.

As the kayak starts its tip, it’s best to remain in the cockpit until the kayak has turned a full 180º from its upright position on the water. Once fully submerged, the kayaker would simply reach forward to pull the grab loop which should easily release the skirt.

At that point, it is relatively easy for the paddler to push away from the kayak and float to the surface. There’s no need to be underwater for more than 3 – 5 seconds.

By employing this technique, a kayaker will reduce or eliminate any significant water pouring into the kayak’s hull. It will be full of air and the air cannot escape once the kayak is upside down, so it remains buoyant.

This allows it to be used as a safety grab and it’s also easier to get it to shore and re-launch.

What Are the Best Kayak Spray Skirts on the Market?

Technically, any skirt is better than none, but if you’re looking for a higher-quality skirt that will not only look better and fit more precisely, but will do the job more effectively and last way longer, here are just a few of R.O.G.’s top pics (that’s Rugged Outdoors Guide for anyone a bit slow on the uptake) 🙂

1 – Immersion Research – Lucky Charm

2 – Immersion Research – Klingon

3 – Seals Odyssey

4 – Dagger Outbound

5 – Perception Truefit

Kayak Spray Skirts Key Takeaways

While using a spray skirt might make you “look cool”, I’d strongly suggest you evaluate your kayaking conditions and environment to determine if you need one at all. If you really don’t need one, it will be more of a both and nuisance than a help.

Be sure to purchase the correct size in both the tunnel and the grip edge.

Practice removing the skirt quickly in case of a spill and remember there is a better way to exit a kayak with a spray skirt rather than the “kick and scramble” method that might come naturally if you haven’t given it some thought beforehand.

As always my friends, Happy and Safe Paddling!

Choosing a kayak paddle is just one more challenge in a whole list of factors that any beginner or veteran has to work through.

As the owner of multiple canoes and kayaks (and a whole host of paddles), and with over 40 years of paddling experience, I’ll help you work through a short but detailed tutorial on all the important factors concerning kayak paddles and how to choose the best one for you and your kayak.

What Are the Parts of a Kayak Paddle?

What Are Kayak Paddles Made Of?

Kayak paddles can be made of wood, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, or carbon fiber. Each of these materials comes with its list of pros and cons (like anything else). Carbon fiber paddles are usually the priciest and offer the best qualities overall, but there are many reasons to choose another material.

Many paddles come with shafts that are made of a different material than the blade and the combinations are plentiful.

WOOD Kayak Paddle

Some kayakers prefer wood kayak paddles because they float if dropped in the water and they’re also a fairly lightweight option.

Wood paddles can be restored from scratches (or worse) relatively easily compared to other materials which may just need to be replaced. Wood paddles offer a nostalgic, retro feel that connects you to the wilderness as well.

Greenland kayak paddles are most typically made of wood for a more traditional, authentic feel.

On the downside, wood kayak paddles are more expensive than their counterparts and need to be refinished periodically with marine-grade varnish to protect them from sun and water damage.

Kayak paddles often have a set of wood blades with a composite or aluminum shaft.

ALUMINUM Kayak Paddle

Aluminum kayak paddles are less expensive than wood but they’re much heavier, don’t float well if dropped in the water, and can corrode over time.

Most aluminum paddles have an aluminum shaft with a plastic/Polypropylene blade.

Aluminum paddles are not only heavier, but unless they have a rubber or foam sleeve, they’re much colder on your hands (which matters if you’re paddling in Winter or cold weather).

Aluminum paddles are considered lower-end and are available more readily for budget-conscious paddlers. They’re so inexpensive that they are the only type of paddles that are often included at no extra charge with the purchase of some kayaks.

Unless you’re a casual, recreational paddler that doesn’t take kayaking too seriously, I’d suggest not getting an aluminum paddle.

FIBERGLASS Kayak Paddle

Fiberglass kayak paddles are a happy medium between wood and aluminum – they’re more durable than wood but lighter than aluminum and won’t corrode.

Fiberglass paddles usually have a blade made of Polypropylene plastic, so they’re similar to aluminum except that the shaft is lighter and more comfortable.

Better quality fiberglass paddles also include a fiberglass blade that offers an upgraded level of durability, less flex and lighter weight than plastic blades.

PLASTIC (POLYPROPYLENE) Kayak Paddle

Plastic paddles are really just plastic blades with aluminum shafts. Plastic blades are, of course, the least expensive option but also the least durable and offer the most flex (which is not a good thing for energy transfer).

Because plastic paddles are less durable and too flexible, they are often made a bit thicker to help balance these negative features. However, a thicker paddle is heavier, less efficient in entering the water, and often presents a “feel” of a lower-budget product in your hands.

CARBON FIBER Kayak Paddle

The king of kayak paddle materials is Carbon Fiber. This material is noticeably lighter than other options and it’s not cold to the touch.

Carbon is also the lowest flexing material of all the options, and that allows for every unit of energy used in paddling to be transferred most efficiently for maximum thrust with each stroke.

This is the material used in Olympic canoeing and kayaking competitions and for good reason.

Carbon Fiber is even being used in the manufacture of Greenland kayak paddles which are traditionally made of wood.

If you’re a longer-distance kayaker or you find yourself in remote areas where your safety can be threatened by sub-standard gear, it’s VERY WISE to purchase and use a Carbon Fiber blade.

Kayak Paddle Blade Designs

Kayak paddle blades are available in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit different kayaking styles. There are two main types of kayak paddle blade positions – fixed, and feathered.

Also, blades come in various shapes. There are low-angle and high-angle blades, as well as dihedral, asymmetrical and Greenland-style.

Fixed Kayak Paddles

Fixed kayak paddles have blades that are set at a 90-degree angle to the shaft. This makes them ideal for beginners or for kayakers who don’t want to worry about adjusting their paddle blade while on the water.

Feathered Kayak Paddles (adjusting your paddle for different kayaking styles)

Feathered kayak paddles have blades that can be adjusted to different angles (usually between 60 and 90 degrees) in relation to the shaft. This allows kayakers to customize their strokes for maximum efficiency and is especially helpful in windy conditions.

Adjustable kayak paddles allow kayakers to change the blade angle on the fly, which can be helpful in a variety of kayaking conditions.

The idea behind feathering a blade is that while one blade is powering through the water during a power stroke, the other blade is sailing overhead towards the front of the kayak getting ready for its power stroke.

If the paddle is feathered, the blade in the air is slicing through wind rather than acting as a sail as it would if it was not feathered.

Additionally, the biometrics of a paddler’s hands/wrists can be more efficient (and kept from undue fatigue or injury) using a properly-adjusted feathered paddle.

A feathered paddle is not great for most paddlers learning how to roll or brace a kayak. The alternating angles can often cause confusion while multitasking (as you would while learning a kayak paddling skill).

What is the Best Kayak Paddle Feather Angle?

The best kayak paddle feather angle is one that is comfortable for you and suits your kayaking style. For beginners or those who don’t want to worry about adjusting their paddle blade, a fixed kayak paddle is a good option.

A fixed blade is probably the best choice for weekend cottagers or casual paddlers.

For kayakers who want to customize their strokes for maximum efficiency, a feathered kayak paddle is the way to go. And for kayakers who want the flexibility to change their blade angle on the fly, an adjustable kayak paddle is the best option.

The adjustment from feathered to unfeathered is done via the ferrule, which is the joint where a paddle can be adjusted to be feathered or unfeathered.

High Angle Kayak Paddle

A high-angle kayak paddle refers to a paddle that is used at a very steep angle during the power stroke. A high-angle kayak paddle is one that has a blade angle of more than 60 degrees. This type of paddle is good for kayakers who want to customize their strokes for maximum efficiency.

In other words, if you look at a high-angle paddler from the front, you’ll see the non-submerged blade almost directly above his head and the kayak paddle being used in the same position as a canoe paddler.

This type of paddle (and paddling style) is best for maximum power and speed. It’s also used in whitewater typically. The disadvantage is that it is much harder to sustain a high-angle stroke efficiently for a longer period of time.

High-angle paddle blades are typically shorter and wider (top to bottom).

No matter what type of kayak paddle you choose, be sure to practice with it before taking it out on the water. This will help you get comfortable with the paddle and ensure that you’re using it correctly. Happy paddling!

Low Angle Kayak Paddle

A low-angle kayak paddle is one that has a blade angle of 60 degrees or less. This type of paddle is good for beginners or for kayakers who want to customize their strokes for maximum efficiency.

A low-angle paddle is used with a stroke where the blade out of the water is not over the paddler’s head but lower and farther to the opposite side of the power stroke.

It’s not as aggressive and it’s not as tiring on the paddler’s shoulders or arms, and it can be sustained for a longer period of time.

This type of paddle is longer and narrower (top to bottom) and is the paddle of choice for long-distance kayak expeditions on flat water.

Dihedral Kayak Paddle Blade

A dihedral blade is one with a rib or raised ridge down the center. This feature allows for water to be flow or be distributed evenly over both sections of the paddle.

Without this raised ridge or rib, a paddle tends to wobble a bit more unless it is operated with perfect form and precision.

Concave vs. Convex vs. Straight blade profiles

Most blades on the market seem to have at least a bit of a profile unless they are homemade.

If your blade is convex, it means you’re using the wrong side as your power side (the water-pushing side). All blades with a curved or scooped profile are meant for the inside curved or scooped side to push water (see diagram below).

Most mid-range priced blades have some version of a concave profile and even a dihedral blade can be designed with a bit of a concave flavor. Scooped or winged blade profiles are usually made from carbon fiber and are very aggressive in design and performance.

Any blade with a version of concave in its design is meant to trap water for a better “grab” in each stroke which will increase efficiency in each stroke.

Straight or flat profiles are not very common and seem to reflect more of a historical, wood design.

Kayak Paddle Shaft Designs

Makers of kayak paddles offer paddlers a great variety of shaft designs including the shape of the shaft, the material from which it is constructed, and the level of adjustability.

Multi-Piece Kayak Paddles

Multi-piece kayak paddles with the ferrule are a great option for those who want a customizable kayak paddle.

The ferrule is the section of the paddle that connects the two pieces of the kayak paddle and allows them to be adjusted to different angles. This makes it easy to customize your kayak paddle for maximum efficiency and comfort.

Ferrule systems usually use a spring-loaded pin system where a pin fits into different holes in the shaft to lock at a particular angle. Other ferrule systems have a friction-operated or tightening system to secure the two pieces of paddle together.

Multi-piece kayak paddles with the ferrule are also a good option for those who want to transport their kayak paddle in a compact way. When the two pieces are disconnected, they measure only half the length of the full shaft, making them easy to fit in a kayak or canoe storage area.

This type of kayak paddle is also adjustable for feathering, so you can change the blade angle on the fly depending on the conditions.

One-Piece Kayak Paddles

One-piece paddles are not the norm today as most paddlers prefer the ability to disconnect a long paddle if only for the sake of travel.

However, for those who really abuse their paddles as one might in whitewater, a one-piece paddle may be the best for longevity and durability. A two-piece paddle can become a bit wobbly at the joint (ferrule) over time because of factors like constant use and the wearing away effect of sand and dirt, etc.

Straight-Shaft Kayak Paddles

Straight-shaft kayak paddles are the norm and most paddlers whether novices or pros will use a straight shaft.

This type of shaft allows for maximum versatility for all types of maneuvers like rolling and bracing. It can be used well in nearly all situations and even when the paddle is not held in a specific way.

Straight-shaft paddles are usually a few ounces lighter than bent-shafts, and straight-shaft blades allow for infinite hand-grip locations.

Bent-Shaft Kayak Paddles

A bent shaft paddle may not be as versatile and it may not be as useable from every position, but it does offer a potential benefit. Some paddlers find a slight improvement in biomechanics using a bent shaft paddle.

The angle of your grip while paddling may help alleviate some wrist fatigue or pressure.

The curves on a bent-shaft paddle necessarily dictate the location of your hands (grip) and therefore you really have no choice as to where you place your hands, even if you’d prefer to have them slightly wider or closer together than the paddle allows.

Finally, bent-shaft paddles don’t allow for an efficient feathering or off-setting of the blades. The bends in the shaft make it cumbersome and inefficient.

How to Choose the Best Kayak Paddle for You!

Choosing the best paddle for your purpose is a matter of just a few elements or choices which will really narrow down your search quickly. Ask yourself these few questions and much of the potential confusion is eliminated:

1 – What type of paddling am I going to do (sea expeditions, fishing, casual recreation, whitewater, etc.)?

2 – In what type of kayak will I be paddling (touring, fishing, sit-on, sit-in, recreation, etc.)?

3 – What’s my budget?

4 – How serious am I about paddling (casual odd weekend paddler or hard-core all-in fanatic)?

5 – How strong are you or how much priority do you place on the weight of your paddle?

Once you figure out some basic answers to these questions, you’ll narrow your choices quickly.

If you’re planning on touring with a narrow touring or sea kayak, you’ll go for a low-angle paddle. The materials will be determined by availability and budget as well as just personal choice.

You may also consider a Greenland-style paddle for efficient touring.

If you’re looking at fishing from a specifically designed fishing kayak, you’ll want a paddle designed for fishing (more on that later).

Recreation kayaks with casual paddlers are good with aluminum paddles and modest Polypropylene blades which will last many years and are extremely affordable.

If you have a bit of a bigger budget and/or you place a high priority on weight and efficiency, you’ll want to focus on a carbon fiber paddle with a ferrule system to tweak your efficiency and comfort level.

Paddle Lengths – How to Choose the Right Length for You

The length of a kayak paddle is the subject of many discussions with many opinions. For casual weekend paddlers at the cottage, the length of a paddle won’t make a huge difference, but for long-distance touring paddlers, the cumulative effects of using a paddle that’s too long or short will start to become evident.

There are several different methods for choosing the right paddle length, and while they approximate each other in the end with a similar recommendation, there is still a variance of at least 10cm or more for each paddle length recommendation.

Height Method

The chart below gives a general idea of what lengths work best for your height. Information is compiled from paddle manufacturers’ suggestions, but ultimately it’s best to get on the water and determine what length feels best. It may be that a length that works for you is not indicated in this chart.

Torso Method

Another method of measuring the correct length of paddle is to use your torso height as the determining factor. Torso height is the distance measured from your crotch (while seated on flat surface) to your nose.

Finger Curl Method

A very informal method of getting a general determination of an acceptable paddle length is to stand straight (flat feet – no tip toes) beside your upright paddle (also with one blade tip touching the ground).

Reach up with an arm grab the tip of the paddle above your head. Curl your fingers over the top and your middle knuckles should be right around the blade tip.

I have found personally that this method is a bit on the short side. For my fishing kayak and my body style (I think it’s about average in build and height), I’m happy if my finger tips either touch the blade tip or are even a few inches below it.

My fishing kayak is over 260 cm and this method does not work for that paddle at all!

What’s the Best Kayak Paddle for a Beginner?

The best kayak paddle for a beginner is the best one you can afford for the type of kayaking you’ll be doing. Each type of paddling (touring, fishing, whitewater, recreation) has a general style of paddle that’s best, and there’s no difference between beginners and experts when it comes to which paddle is best.

The better (and, unfortunately, the more expensive) paddle you buy, the more enjoyment and less frustration you’ll get as a beginner.

What is the Best Paddle for Whitewater?

The best whitewater paddle is usually made of Carbon Fiber (both blade and shaft) for durability and responsiveness. It’s also a one-piece design and is not feathered. Feathered paddles are for ergonomic comfort for long, quiet journeys, not for short, adrenaline-filled, class 5 rapids!

Feathered paddles tend to lose rigidity at the ferrule (joint) over time.

The best whitewater paddles have high-angle blades which are wide (top to bottom) and shorter in length. This allows for better shallow water control and makes your paddle shorter (which is good in whitewater).

What’s the Best Kayak Paddle Material?

The best kayak paddle material for weight, strength, efficiency, and durability is carbon fiber. From the standpoint of a paddler, there is no real downside to using a carbon paddle other than the initial cost.

As outlined earlier, Carbon Fiber paddles will not corrode like aluminum can, and they won’t wear down and need re-finishing like wood. They are not cold on your hands and they maximize the power in each stroke so no energy is lost through shaft or blade flex.

They are the lightest option available, and they also look the best because anyone who sees it typically knows that Carbon Fiber is super expensive.

What’s the Best Kayak Paddle for Fishing?

The best fishing kayak paddle is probably the Pelican Catch. While there are other excellent paddles for kayak anglers (like Bending Branches), the Catch is less expensive but comes with all the specifications of a more expensive option.

The Pelican Catch is made of Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon blades along with a fiberglass shaft (that looks just like carbon fiber) with adjustable drip rings.

The blades themselves have a water diversion notch and a lure-retrieving hook built into the blade. There are not many (if any) kayak-angling-specific paddles that are noticeably better than the Pelican Catch.

Specialty Kayak Paddles

In addition to low-angle and high-angle paddles that work for many different kayaks and paddling styles, there are purpose-specific paddles that are an excellent choice for anyone involved in activities for which those paddles were made, like fishing or touring.

Kayak Fishing Paddle

Kayak fishing paddles are unique from regular kayak paddles in two main ways.

The first is that they are close to 260 cm long (give or take) which makes them longer than any other kayak paddles. The reason is that most often, fishing kayaks are wider than other kayaks. In addition, the paddler sits a bit higher than paddlers of other kayaks.

Those two distinctions make it so that the water is farther away from the paddler. A longer paddle makes it much easier to propel yourself (especially with a low-angle stroke).

Bending Branches makes the “Angler” series of paddles which are probably the most expensive and best quality paddles made specifically for fishing.

Pelican makes another awesome paddle that has the same features as most of the Bending Branches paddles, but it’s about half the price because Pelican’s name isn’t as “premium” as Bending Branches.

I own the Pelican Angler Catch because it’s almost as light as a carbon paddle and it looks just as good, but features an FRN (fiberglass reinforced nylon) blade and fiberglass shaft. The blades are slightly concave and feature drip rings, drip cuts to divert water, and a lure retrieval hook!

Greenland Touring Paddle

The Greenland touring paddle design was specifically designed for the needs of an open water paddler, so that’s really where it shines compared to rivers or shallow waters where traditional paddles may serve better.

Traditional Greenland paddles have a shorter shaft (loom) and the paddler’s hands are closer together than with a “regular” paddle.

Greenland paddles offer some distinct advantages over the more common style of paddle with 2 distinct blades at the very end of a long stick or pole.

One of the advantages is that when you begin a power stroke with a regular paddle, the newly-inserted blade catches the water and resists your pull in a more overt manner causing stress over the long term.

A Greenland paddle does not have an obvious blade at the end of a stick, so there is no “initial load” on the stroke and power is gained during the middle and end of a stroke instead.

Greenland paddling legend Turner Wilson sums up the advantages of a Greenland paddle perfectly:

How to Choose the Right Kayak Paddle – Key Takeaways

We’ve covered a whole lot of information on kayak paddles in this post and more could be said! I hope you’ve gleaned enough information to determine the general style and qualities of the paddle you’ll want and need.

Remember that you’ll want to focus on the type of kayak you have and the type of paddling you’ll be doing. Once you figure that out, the choices get fewer and your job of deciding gets easier.

Above all, try your best to test the paddle out on the water before sealing the deal because experience has taught me that even when a paddle looks great on paper, online, or with all the great specifications, it may not feel nice in your hands.

Paddle on and blessings to you all my friends!

Sources: Paddlingmag.com (Turner Wilson quote)

Over the past 40 years, I’ve had the privilege of casting, flipping, trolling and jigging my way across much of Canada as well as portions of the U.S. (The Everglades!) for bass.

I have fished from shore, canoes, expedition kayaks, aluminum Jon boats, rafts, pontoon boats and bass boats. I’ll unpack some of the best reasons for using a fishing kayak for bass angling and why I am convinced it is the absolute best method overall for catching any bass in most environments.

Please note that this article is just a basic introduction to bass fishing in a kayak and I don’t claim to be exhaustive in my scope (that means I’m not telling you ALL there is to know about bass fishing). I hope to offer some guidance for those just getting started in this most thrilling (while also relaxing) pursuit of lake or river fishing for bass!

Where Do I Find Bass on the Lake?

This may be a bit simplistic, but in general, you’ll find Largemouth bass in relatively shallow water infested with any kind of weeds, while Smallmouth bass hang out around more defined structures like fallen trees, sunken boulders and boat docks.

Of course, the full answer to where to find bass is more nuanced and a bit more complicated when we start looking at differing bodies of water like fast-moving streams vs. shallow, weedy ponds, and deep, clear, rocky lakes in the Winter vs. shallow, muddy lakes in the deep South in mid-August!

As a rule though, stick to weedy bays for Largemouth and shoreline structure (or mid-lake structure if you can find it) for Smallmouth.

What is bass fishing from a kayak like compared to other methods?

Kayak fishing for bass is a unique and exciting experience. Kayaks are much smaller and more maneuverable, less visible, and just as quiet (or quieter) as other types of fishing boats, which allows the angler to get closer to the fish.

My dad, who introduced me to fishing, always told me something that I believe is true (at least for most bass fishing in Canada and the Northern US). He told me that if I could see a specific bass swimming or still in the water, the bass has already seen me and he’ll be gone in a second or at least he won’t be the one biting my lure.

That may not be true in all cases, but it’s a good axiom.

Kayaks provide a great vantage point for spotting bass habitat in the water (along with your polarized sunglasses).

While kayaks are even smaller than most canoes, it’s far easier to stand up to stretch and analyze the surrounding fish habitat. Some have told me that they’ve witnessed bass actually being attracted by the presence of a quiet fishing kayak though I can’t speak to that issue!

While other boats will allow you to stand, I know of no other craft that will allow standing while also allow you to drag it by hand out of the water and then allow you to swing it on top of your car roof for transport. That is certainly a quality unique to kayak fishing.

In the case of Largemouth bass, shallow, weedy water is often less accessible to bass boats or other motorboats. Canoes and kayaks overcome that problem, but even canoes and hand-paddled kayaks are prone to problems with weed-wrapped paddles that often slip into the water while you’re fighting a bass.

If you use a pedal or paddle-drive kayak, you will simply NEVER experience anything like it except if you’re in one! It allows for access to the shallowest waters, is as quiet as anyone could imagine, is incredibly comfortable to sit or stand in, costs nothing to operate once you buy it, allows for hand-free operation, is easy to maneuver and is a joy to use for trolling.

I don’t think any other craft can boast all those advantages – PERIOD!

The downside of kayak fishing is that you are more exposed to the elements and can get wetter and colder than if you were in a boat with a bimini top.

Kayak fishing also requires more upper body strength (if you paddle with a traditional hand paddle) than other types of fishing, as you will be paddling most of the time. That’s why I would never use any fishing kayak that does not use my legs as the primary propulsion energy source!

What Type of Kayak Should You Use for Bass Fishing and Why?

This one is easy. A pedal-drive or paddle-drive kayak uses either a propeller or a set of fins to propel the kayak forward while your legs are the primary power source. This is by far the best type of fishing kayak for calm water bass fishing.

I would never consider using a hand paddle simply because it seems too illogical and counter-productive. When I am fishing, I need BOTH of my hands on my rod and reel for maximum efficiency, efficacy, and enjoyment.

At the same time, however, BOTH of my hands are needed to steer and propel the kayak (did I mention AT THE SAME TIME?). That means that I would ideally need 4 arms to operate the whole system, and even then, my paddle and 2 arms would be in the way of my fishing rod!

To add insult to injury, my dormant legs are just sitting there doing absolutely nothing while my poor hands are needed on my fishing rod, my net, my paddle, my tacklebox … all at the same time. Something about that scenario annoys me.

Am I the only one who sees this?

If you’re still not convinced about the VAST superiority of a paddle or pedal drive system over a double-blade kayak paddle, consider this:

If you’re angling for smallmouth over submerged structure in open water, there’s likely a 100% chance (at least during the hours of 8 am to 8 pm) that you’ll be dealing with at least a bit of wind.

Can you imagine trying to stay over the structure in deep water using a hand paddle while trying to fish with both hands at the same time?

If you use an anchor, you’ll have to deal with potential problems of getting your line tangled in the anchor line along with about a dozen other issues related to anchors (by the way, I absolutely HATE anchors and refuse to use one while kayak fishing).

Even in sheltered, shallow bays near shore, you’ll still have wind that will push you away from where you want to be. Using a pedal drive, you can maintain position easier, especially since you have instant reverse capabilities!

Trolling Bliss!

Okay, this has to be in my top 3 reasons I love fishing with my pedal-drive fishing kayak. Trolling is a big part of anyone’s fishing technique portfolio because it is so effective. I won’t even start to tell you about the insane effectiveness of trolling a jitterbug on a glassy surface in early morning or just around sunset on a Northern Lake untouched by power boats!

If you understand this concept, then you’ll acknowledge that it would be best to troll with your rod in hand so you can impart subtle action to the lure (speed up and slow down, jerk it a bit, etc.). If you’re trolling with a kayak paddle, you’ll miss the strike (which sometimes can be subtle), and you may not get a chance to set the hook.

Further, you’ve got about a 40% chance (if you’re good) of having the paddle slip into the water if the fish is a big one and you’re reaching for your net and your pliers and fish bonker at the same time as you’re trying to fire up your GoPro to record the catch.

Wouldn’t it be nice to get rid of the paddle for good and just use your hands to hold the rod while trolling?

How Do You Go About Casting for Bass When Fishing From a Kayak?

Casting is as simple from a kayak as any boat. In most cases, however, side-arm casting is a better option to avoid potentially tangling a lure with the other rods stored behind the angler’s seat.

Side-arm casting gives this angler far better control than a straight overhead cast, and it also minimizes any uncontrolled long casts that end up in the bushes on shore. It’s far easier to judge trajectory and distance with a side-arm cast that stays close to the water.

A 6-foot to 7-foot medium-action rod is best for most kayak casting situations, and experience has taught me that sitting is a better option than standing while casting – at least for bass in Northern lakes. Stealth is the name of the game, and the more you can hide your presence from the bass, the better.

Flipping can also be done effectively using a sideways flip rather than using a standing vertical flipping technique.

Kayak Bass Fishing Mistakes and Best Practices

Every bass fishing boat has its advantages and disadvantages, and kayaks are no different. To that end, here is a short list of kayak bass fishing do’s and don’ts.

DO

• Use a visibility flag for maximum safety. It’s very inexpensive and in addition to keeping you safer on the water, it makes you look like you know what you’re doing!
• Use your legs to power the kayak and save your arms for the things you enjoy doing … like FISHING!
• Stand up and stretch carefully if you need to, but be on your guard.
• Poke yourself into the smallest bays and weed beds in order to maximize your advantage over a $75,000 Ranger bass boat!
• Bring along a storage crate behind your seat (make sure it’s secured with bungee cords to the kayak) and a small (10L) dry bag for important items.
• Have a Personal Locator Beacon or satellite communicator with you if you’re heading out on a longer excursion, are on the ocean or even on a smaller lake if it’s sparsely populated and no one knows where you are.
• Use a paddling-specific (or better yet, fishing-specific/inflatable) PFD to maximize your enjoyment factor.
• Bring appropriate snacks and water for the time you’re gone.
• Give the right of way to just about any other boat on the lake.
• Stay close to shore. It’s safer and in most cases the fishing is better – especially since you don’t normally use downriggers for BASS!
• Rig your car or truck with the correct bars and riggings to minimize danger to your kayak and others while on the road.
• Remember that while you may get more of your legs wet, the deeper the water (up to about 2 feet deep) is, the easier it is to get out of your kayak (assuming you have no dock).

DON’T

• Think that your Polyethylene kayak is indestructible. Store it as much as you can (especially over Winter) indoors (hoist it to your garage ceiling if you can) and cover it with a kayak-specific UV cover. Otherwise, UV light will eventually deteriorate your kayak’s hull making it virtually unusable over the long term.
• Buy a fishing kayak unless you can try it out first (especially if it’s from a retailer and costs several thousand dollars)
• Treat your kayak like a battle tank. A keel guard may be a good option to protect the front of the hull from rock collisions over time.
• Spook the bass with all the noises a kayak makes (splashing paddle, loud pedaling noises from a pedal drive kayak, electric motor, hard items sliding across the kayak’s surface, etc.
• Land your lure right on top of a bass (if you see it) like you might be tempted to in a spawning bed. It will likely spook the fish instead of making it hungry!
• Get as close as you can to the fish. I’ve found that the closer you can get to a sunning or spawning bass, the less likely you are to catch it.
• Forget to adjust your fishing kayak seat, footrests, etc. in order to fit your fishing conditions. For example, the seat needs to be adjusted for each individual paddler if you’re using a pedal drive kayak.
• Get into and out of your kayak with the bow or stern against the shore (ie. the kayak is perpendicular to shore). Instead, have the kayak parallel to the shore (though you might get your feet wet a bit) and you will increase the odds of a successful boarding with no tippiness.
• Put too much value on a fish finder. Most of your bass (especially largemouth) will be caught in water too shallow to effectively use a fish finder. You’ll catch them in weedy bays close to shore.
• Bring 5-10 fishing rods with you in the kayak! Keep it simple, and unless you’re a tournament angler, I find that 2-3 rods are adequate as both backups and for a quick change of lure presentation.
• Get really excited about the ability you have to stand in your kayak while angling. Realistically, sitting is the safest, most efficient and most comfortable position for most fishing scenarios.
• Buy everything for your kayak from a retailer. DIY modifications are often very quick and easy and can save you 50% – 90% on most items.

Where Do You Keep a Bass in Your Kayak After You Catch it?

If you’re looking to keep a few bass for dinner or a shore lunch, it’s best to use either a fish storage cooler meant for a kayak, or a DIY modification that includes a plastic bag and a milk crate storage box behind your seat. Alternatively, a diver’s mesh bag can be used for storing the fish in the water.

Because I’m cheap, I don’t own a FISH COOLER BAG for my kayak. Instead, I used an old milk crate I had in my garage. On my YouTube channel, you can see a full video on how I made the crate.

While the crate is often used to hold tackle and other gear, I put my tackle boxes under my seat, and my gear (windbreaker jacket, personal locator beacon, snacks, etc.) in a dry bag just behind my seat.

Then, if I know I’ll be keeping some fish, I’ll use a fish bonker (also DIY) in order to minimize suffering of the poor bass and to minimize noises while I continue to fish. I’ll store the bass I’m keeping in a plastic shopping bag which is then placed inside of my crate which is also behind my seat (a little farther behind than my dry bag).

In my situation, I’m almost always only on the water for a couple of hours before coming back to camp and cleaning/eating my fish right away. My storage solutions are based on this scenario rather than keeping the bass for weeks or months.

If you plan on staying on the water for many hours and then transporting the bass home and into your freezer, an insulated cooler bag with ice is probably the best storage solution.

Buffalo Gear makes a top-notch kayak fish cooler bag for longer-term storage – especially if you add ice!

One of the best alternative methods of storing your bass to keep it fresh, is keeping it in the water using a mesh diver’s bag. This is a very inexpensive method that will keep your bass fresher than using a plastic bag in a crate, but it will also surely spook other bass (especially in shallow waters) by creating noises (unless the bass is dead).

A diver’s bag filled with bass will also catch weeds and potentially tangle your line, lure or fish the next time you have a fish on!

Kayak Bass Fishing Key Takeaways

If you haven’t already bought your kayak, consider a pedal drive system because it gives you ultimate control of your kayak (even more than paddle-drive systems and infinitely more control than a hand paddle in all but the densest weeds).

Honestly, if you told me I HAD TO use a double-bladed paddle while fishing from my kayak, I’d probably rather not use my kayak at all for fishing!

Understand that your kayak is giving you a world of advantages over other boats (or no boat), so be sure to make full use of those advantages instead of trying to compete with the advantages offered by a bass boat!

Stay close to shore for most bass in warm weather and stay as quiet as possible (which is very possible in a fishing kayak).

Store your catch in a cooler bag or crate made especially for a fishing kayak.

Tight lines my friends!

Kayak fishing is an incredibly popular method of fishing and it’s growing in popularity every year! With this popularity and growth, come hundreds of questions about how to get started properly.

Before you spend any money, it’s best to research the answers to dozens of crucial questions like what type of kayak to choose, what accessories are needed, how to get in and out of your specific kayak, how is it propelled and many more!

I’ve been paddling for over 40 years and fishing for every one of those. I’ll give you my best insights into this effective, fun, healthy, and cost-effective method of fishing.

What Should I Look for in my First Kayak?

There are a few things that a fishing kayak should offer no matter the budget or quality. At a minimum, fishing kayaks should be stable, easy to transport, and comfortable to sit in for hours at a time.

1 – Stability

A fishing kayak needs to be stable enough to handle waves, wind, and movement without tipping over.

You may get the urge to stand up to stretch or cast, and if so, it would be nice to have a kayak that is stable enough to allow standing without the feeling of tippiness that would prevent successful and enjoyable casting or stretching.

An angling kayak that measures at least 34 inches in width will offer a basic level of stability that would allow for standing or an adequate feeling of stability even while sitting. Wider is even better.

While it is true that as you use your kayak more, you’ll get used to it and it will feel more stable, it’s also true that wider kayaks offer more peace of mind for both beginners and experienced anglers alike.

The only real downside to a wide canoe is that they will be a bit slower than another model of the same length but narrower, and they will potentially be heavier.

2 – Comfort

You’ll be spending hours in your fishing kayak, so make sure it has comfortable seating and legroom.

The best seat comfort will come from a sit-on-top kayak with a wide, webbed seat (similar to a lawn chair) with a full, adjustable backrest. Many kayaks offer stepped foot rests which cater to different leg lengths.

In addition to the obvious seat and leg comfort, it’s a good idea to consider the location of rod holders. If they are well behind the seat, it will be awkward and uncomfortable to access them.

3 – Ease of Transportation

Kayaks can be heavy and awkward, so it’s important to be sure you can easily get your kayak from the car to the water and back without taking unnecessary risks with your health and safety.

Unlike canoes, fishing kayaks are extremely heavy for their length. Even relatively short kayaks can weigh anywhere from 60 pounds to over 120 pounds.

I own a Das King Nautilus kayak that is only 10.5 feet long but weighs around 80 lbs. In this weight range, every additional pound is crucial and even a few pounds can be the difference between whether or not you can effectively mount the kayak on top of a vehicle or not.

Many kayak owners have opted for a trailer for ease of transportation.

4 – Storage

The issue of off-season (and even “in-season”) storage should be considered before making a kayak purchase.

Many higher-end fishing kayaks are so large and heavy that they require a trailer for transportation. The trailer can be used as a storage rack, but should be indoors during the off-season and colder weather.

Lightweight kayaks can be easily moved by hand onto storage racks on a wall but even the smallest sit-on-top fishing kayaks will probably need a set of wheels (cart) to move even short distances.

Because of their design, fishing kayaks are not meant to be carried by a single person in the style of a shoulder-mounted canoe. You’ll need a partner, a trolly/cart, a trailer or even all of the above in some cases.

What Are the Different Types of Fishing Kayaks Available?

There are two main styles of fishing kayaks and at least 3 methods of propulsion. Sit-on-top kayaks and Sit-inside kayaks are the two main design styles available.

Sit-on-top fishing kayaks are the most popular type of fishing kayak. They are stable, easy to get in and out of, and comfortable to fish from. Sit-on-top fishing kayaks are an excellent choice for beginners or anglers who want to fish in calm waters.

Sit-on-top kayaks are also the best option to cast easily since the angler sits a bit higher, and this style offers far more easily accessible storage of items like tackle boxes, fishing rods, camera mount areas and more.

While sit-on-top kayaks are the kayak of choice for most fishing applications, they do not protect directly against any splashing water, so it would be more likely that you’ll get wet while fishing all but the calmest waters with the sit-on-top model.

Sit-inside fishing kayaks offer more protection from the elements but can be more difficult to get in and out of. Sit-inside fishing kayaks are a good choice for anglers who want to fish in rougher waters or colder climates.

They do not normally offer any conveniences like rod holders, open deck for tackle storage, accessory rails, fish cooler bags or alternate propulsion options.

Pedal Drive, Paddle Drive, and Hand powered Kayaks

Pedal fishing kayaks are powered by pedals (like a recumbent bicycle) that activate a propeller.

Pedal fishing kayaks are a good choice for anglers who want to fish in larger bodies of water or cover more ground quickly.

Because they offer hands-free operation of your kayak, Pedal drive systems are becoming more popular than ever before. Pedal drive systems are the only leg-powered systems that allow for instant reverse (by back-pedaling) and they also offer the most torque (AKA “speed”) than paddle drive kayaks.

Paddle drive systems (the most famous being Hobie), are similar to pedal drive kayaks in that your legs are doing the heavy work. The “pedals” do not go in a circle as do pedal drive systems and bicycles.

Instead, the angler’s feet simply move back and forth alternately much like a stair stepper machine. They are not quite as fast as pedal drive kayaks and instead of utilizing a propeller to move through the water, they use flappers that look and act much like a scuba diver’s flippers or fins.

However, Paddle drive kayaks can more quickly and easily get into shallow water because their “flippers” or “flappers” under the water can be tucked up to the kayak hull immediately.

Both pedal and paddle drive kayaks offer a hand-free paddling experience that is crucial to fishing both successfully and conveniently over the long term.

Hand-powered kayaks are simply kayaks that are paddled with a traditional, double-bladed hand-operated paddle.

Many paddlers (especially purists) would have it no other way, but I can tell you from direct experience that using a hand paddle while angling is inconvenient at best.